SilverStreaker

Anyone familiar with our geographic location will understand the problem that occurs every September with the famous love bugs.

They are tiny black things that fly around mating like crazy for three days and then die if they don't hit your car first.

Every year the things literally turn the front end and windshield of a car black to match their smash.

Some people have told me they put Pams on the front end of the car and the bugs will wipe off more easily.

Now I'm hearing you can gently use a softening product called Bounce to remove them.

Has anyone in this are had any luck with either or all of the above? Hurry up the response please as football season starts this weekend and the drive over and back is certain to contain thousands of bugs.

mrosa65

Some members here swear by the dryer sheets for removing the bugs. I used to just wet a towel and lay it across the paint in the garage, let it sit for an hour and the bugs would wipe right off.

Since then, I have switched to Zaino and the bugs wash right off the paint with just a squirt from the hose. Living in Florida I can relate to the lovebugs.

agentf1

Sorry, living in the NE and getting prepared for the cold and snow you are not going to get any pity from me. I will take lovebugs over cold weather and snow anyday.

To answer your question, I would use Zaino on my bumper and try to remove the bugs with a damp towel on a daily basis so the acids don't have time to damage your finish and the bugs don't get too baked on. Bugs seem to slide right off of Zaino but nothing will protect you for too long as like bird crap bug guts are very acidic.

mrosa65

I agree, I've tried Mothers, Megs, Rejex, Zaino, etc. Still haven't found a product that will protect from very acidic bird droppings if they're allowed to bake in the sun for more than a day.

Tom/99

Do not leave the Love Bugs on your paint. Whatever is in them, will actually eat into your paint.

mrosa65

That's why I carry around a bottle of spray detailer in my vehicles. Those things are just plain nasty little critters.

Z06-Goose

Shoot me a pm, and I'll send you a`sample of a product that has proven to be the best against those bug splatters. You're a good candidate to try out. Just do the front of your car, and then let us know how it fared.
Goose

mrosa65

Heck shoot me a PM SilverStreaker and I'll send you an almost full bottle of Rejex for free. I had purchased a second bottle for my brother who tried it a few times and went back to using Megs because he wasn't impressed with it. Just a word of warning, don't let the bugs sit on your car no matter what product you use as they WILL eat into the finish.

Z06-Goose

There you go silverstreak. I would take him up on his offer, then you can pm me and I will tell you the right way to apply RejeX so you get the best results!
Goose

mrosa65

Here you go SilverStreaker, right from the manufacture.

INSTRUCTIONS

Shake well and apply to a clean, dry surface that is cool to the touch. Do not apply in direct sunlight or in temperatures greater than 85° F.
After RejeX dries to a haze (about 20 minutes), simply wipe it off. Unlike waxes that require strenuous rubbing or buffing to remove, RejeX easily wipes on and off.
Allow RejeX to cure for 12 hours out of the elements.
For optimum protection, reapply every 4-6 months as needed.

http://www.corrosionx.com/rejex.html

Remember, the better you prep your car, the better it will look.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

http://www.autogeek.net/poorboys-bug-squash.html

I use this alone for stubborn bugs and tar, and mix some in with my wash soap for lighter use. All that is needed, you can also add some to a sprayer with water and have an instant qd'er with some power.

Z06-Goose

From the RejeX website FAQ...

What happens if my vehicle gets wet before the 12-hour curing interval is complete?
Moisture absorbed from the air is the catalyst that causes RejeX to polymerize (turn into a polymer). The longer it cures – up to about 12 hours – the more durable the finish. Usually if RejeX gets any curing time at all (even an hour or two), it’s going to outlast most waxes. If the product gets a little wet while it’s curing (e.g. a light sprinkle or morning dew), there’s usually not a problem. Try to avoid heavy rain and lawn sprinklers until RejeX has had at least several hours of curing time.
http://www.corrosionx.com/rejexFAQ.html

mrosa65

INSTRUCTIONS

Shake well and apply to a clean, dry surface that is cool to the touch. Do not apply in direct sunlight or in temperatures greater than 85° F.
After RejeX dries to a haze (about 20 minutes), simply wipe it off. Unlike waxes that require strenuous rubbing or buffing to remove, RejeX easily wipes on and off.
Allow RejeX to cure for 12 hours out of the elements.
For optimum protection, reapply every 4-6 months as needed.

http://www.corrosionx.com/rejex.html

The label states that RejeX needs to cure "out of the elements" for twelve hours. For larger vehicles like commercial trucks, RVs and boats that are stored outdoors, how can that be accomplished?
By “out of the elements” we mean to avoid direct sunlight that could heat the application surface excessively. Also, don’t apply RejeX when there’s a probability of imminent rain. It’s important to select a good day and apply RejeX in an area where the vehicle is not likely to get stains on it (tree sap, bird droppings, etc.) until RejeX has had a chance to cure.

mrosa65

SilverStreaker

Not sure what kind of wax you're currently using, but if you don't want to try something new which would mean more work for you because to do it correctly you should strip the old stuff and apply new stuff, just wash your car, put a fresh coat of what ever you're using on it and then just carry a spray bottle of quick detailer and a good towel or microfiber with you. When you get to your destination, just give the love bugs a spritz and they'll come off since they're still "fresh". Problem solved and no need to switch waxes and create that much more work by applying something new.

mrosa65

I guess you can always apply it in the dark on a clear night so there won't be any rain to wash it off or sun to heat the cars surface to above 85 degrees that it won't bond properly

Z06-Goose

Yup. The humidity will cause certain sealants to streak bad
Goose

mrosa65

So if the manufacture states that it should cure for 12 hours and it should be out of them elements then why would you not want to adhere to their directions? Why bother applying it if you risk compromising the finish? I mean, isn't the reason you're applying it to your car is to seal out harmful enviromental items? So why wouldn't you want it to cure for the maximum time, doesn't make much sense the way you're telling people they don't need to wait.

I like the fact that they add "usually not a problem". Sounds like they're covering all their bases... And I've seen rejex streak as well if you apply it to thick and it's pretty tough to remove as well. I guess thinner is better works for rejex also.

Z06-Goose

If push comes to shove, you can get away with just 2-4 hours of curing time. What you're doing is use the RejeX recommended 12-hour curing time as a negative against the product. I don't think that's a bad thing at all. It certainly beats having to use a catalyst chemical to force it to cure before its naturally environment allows it to. If you're in a situation where you need to be up and about in two hours after the application, you'll be fine. And that's what the website is saying, in response to what people maybe thinking of a situation where 12 hours is not an option.
I just put another coat this afternoon, and I'm driving my Z06 just an hour after I was done.
Goose

mrosa65

Actually I was just trying to show SilverStreak the RIGHT way to apply Rejex, not the wrong way, like you are. The manufacture states that the longer it cures, up to 12 hours the stronger it is. So why would you tell some one that an hour or two is ok? The FAQ states that if it gets a few hours than it should outlast most waxes. If that's the case and you're telling him to do a "quicky" job, then he should just continue what he's using and not bother with rejex. What you're telling him doesn't make sense

As for you putting a coat on and driving around after an hour, hey it's your car and your decision. Personally, when I used it, I waited the 12 hours so it could cure properly. That's like painting a wall, waiting an hour and then throwing dirt against it. If the wall isn't totally dry all that dirt is going to stick into the nice new finish you just applied. Same thing is happening to your car. You're saying you're driving it around before the rejex can bond and you're allowing contaminates into the finish. So you're actually defeating the whole purpose of putting rejex on the car.

As for a catalyst, rejex uses moisture in the air as it's catalyst. I'm sure they're probably in the process of working on one to cut down the wait times to even less amounts. But then again, it's primary purpose was it was designed for planes. They typically can move a plane into the hanger and apply it and cure it inside.

I would be more concerned with the temperature rather than the water issues. The external surface of a dark vehicle can get very hot out in the sun. Greatly exceeding the 85 degrees that the manufacture tells people to avoid. That's another reason I applied it inside my garage and allowed it to cure the way they recommended.

So I'm curious, for someone such as yourself telling people "you'll show them the right way to apply it", you've pretty much done the opposite of what the manufacture states for "optimum performance"

agentf1

Or he could just use Zaino with ZFX and apply three coats at once and be done with it.

Regardless of what you use, do not let them sit too long as they WILL etch your paint no matter what wax or polish you are using.