I put the first 2 coats of RejeX on my Corvette Sunday night/Monday morning and here are my initial thoughts along with some pertinent variables.
Before Sunday, I had never used a claybar on anything before, this could have and probably did make a difference as after washing the car once with Dawn and believing it to be squeaky-clean, when I went over the car with the clay bar I was shocked at how much stuff came off and onto the bar itself. Between that and the car feeling so, so smooth, pretty amazing I will say. So this is one of the major considerations I'll have to factor in in my initial comparison, the use of claybar'ing first.
RejeX smells just like NuFinish. It looks like NuFinish, it both goes on and spreads and comes off like NuFinish. One big difference is that unlike NuFinish's instructions to use a damp applicator, RejeX does not specify using moisture of any kind so there has to be a difference though I do not know what it is.
I do know that I have been putting on too much of both when I have been applying them. Too much, sitting/hazing for too long and it is a challenge getting it off. I now know to use as little as possible, almost like Woody Wax.
The RejeX came off a bit easier and the smoothness of the completed surface so far has been much smoother and slicker as compared with the NuFinish though I have yet to determine if it is because I clay bar'd first. I know that as I've been using NuFinish on the new 2004 Tundra I've had, that the water would bead for many months or at least for a whole winter as our winters up here are brutal and all manner of sand, salt/calcium chloride get on the paint and when I go to wash it all off with either plain water or a plain water pressure spray at the .25 cent bays, the water keeps on beading off the paint, so it lasts a long time and it what I'm after, long lasting protection as opposed to looks and shine. I think the RejeX is going to be awesome.
I'll certainly be clay bar'ing my truck and I'll put NuFinish on one side and RejeX on the other for the best comparison.
Paint preparation is probably results in about 80 to 90 percent of the effort on how smooth and shiny the finish will be at the end. After claying a car, it's probably a good idea to use a polish and a machine polisher to remove any scratches and swirls in the paint, before applying the final wax or sealant.
Nu Finish and Rejex are quite different products.
Nu Finish is silicone based. Most detailers try to avoid putting a silicone based product on a car since it can be absorbed into the paint, in paint chips and scratches. If your car ever needs to be repainted the silicone must be removed or it will affect the new paint being applied to the surface. Nu Finish also contains abrasives to polish and remove oxidation.
Rejex contains no silicone and is a durable polymer based product. It contains no abrasives, so if polishing is required, it must be done before application of Rejex.
RejeX was originally developed for the US Air Force to stop turbine exhaust gases from tearing up paint and causing corrosion on aluminum airframes.
Hydrocarbons in jet turbine exhaust, which is caustic to metals, destroys paint, and once it gets into the pores of aluminum, it starts a tough corrosion problem.
So, development began which resulted in RejeX. It proved to work extremely well in preventing the accumulation of corrosive exhaust gases and stopping the corrosion process on the aluminum skin of aircraft. Because of its effectiveness and its applicability to other users, RejeX was modified from the original formula to offer it to non-military customers. The only difference between the military version of RejeX used on F-18s and H-60 Black Hawk helicopters and the civilian-use version is that the civilian version shines like crazy.
Now that you know the background, here is a little product information in case you want to know more. RejeX is not harmful to paint like some products containing silicone oils. Products containing silicone oil (free silicone) will make a car shine really well, but it gets absorbed into paint, which causes very undesirable effects if you need to apply a new coat of paint in the future. Because the free silicone molecules have absorbed deep into the paint, and because they are very slippery, the new paint won’t stick unless the paint shop takes extreme measures to remove every bit of existing paint. Most car owners aren’t aware of the issues surrounding free silicones, but with RejeX you don’t have to worry about this issue at all!
Plus, RejeX is an extremely durable form of polymer. It is totally non-porous and produces such a high-release (slippery) surface that contaminants have a very hard time sticking to it. Plus, it provides a wicked shine because of its very high reflectivity. It’s actually clearer (more clear) than acrylic. It's also EXTREMELY resilient to chemicals, solvents, fuels, contaminants, and corrosive agents that can harm your vehicle’s finish. So while RejeX won’t completely stop bird droppings, tree sap, bug splatters and brake dust from accumulating on your car, it will eliminate a great deal of these problems, plus they will be a lot easier to clean off. And, RejeX causes water to bead like crazy!
RejeX was introduced in February 2002. After about a year, someone at Car & Driver magazine got a hold of a bottle. Their review of the product provided independent proof of the benefits described above, and started giving it broader recognition among car enthusiasts.
I was a big fan of Nu Finish when it was first introduced (i think in the '70s) for years. It was one of the first non-wax products that I had ever heard of and you couldn't beat it for the price and availability.
Sealants have improved considerably since then and my two favorite products are Zaino and Rejex. If you do need an all in one product with a bit of paint cleaning ability, Zaino AIO is another great alternative.
What happens if my vehicle gets wet before the 12-hour curing interval is complete?
Moisture absorbed from the air is the catalyst that causes RejeX to polymerize (turn into a polymer). The longer it cures Ė up to about 12 hours Ė the more durable the finish. Usually if RejeX gets any curing time at all (even an hour or two), itís going to outlast most waxes. If the product gets a little wet while itís curing (e.g. a light sprinkle or morning dew), thereís usually not a problem. Try to avoid heavy rain and lawn sprinklers until RejeX has had at least several hours of curing time.