Need advice - Keeping Car Clean in Apartment and Rethinking Wash Procedures
11-03-2009, 11:25 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Need advice - Keeping Car Clean in Apartment and Rethinking Wash Procedures
Hey guys... had a black C6, but just traded for a silver. Unfortunately, the black got away from me over four years and high miles. Rock chips and swirls as well as sandblasting on the quarter panels were the biggest issues. The car looked fabulous considering the mileage, but it could have been better. I switched to silver partly for ease of maintenance, but that being said, I want to adjust how I do things so I don't repeat the same mistakes even if silver hides blemishes. The paint is just too beautiful to screw up.
I live in an Apartment and have a garage. The only place I can wash a car is at those quarter car wash places with the pressure washers.
My old technique consisted of this: rinse the car while keeping the pressure washer far from the paint so as to avoid damage due to high pressure. Then, I would fill a clean bucket and mix in Meguiar's Gold Class; sometimes I used a microfiber wash mit, and sometimes I used an extra soft yellow dog-bone sponge; I would completely lather the car down before rinsing it off again. Then I would switch to a different sponge/mitt for the wheels and calipers and finish that way. For drying, I used a California Blade and a microfiber or soft towel to gently blot or wipe off any remaining water spots. I know now that this wasn't the best technique, but I'm not sure how I can improve...
I don't know where to begin. I guess two buckets would be a good start; I can't get too complicated though (leaf blowers to dry, etc.) and I can't wash my car at my apartment complex. I can wax or Rejex or whatever in the garage, though. In the past I used Meguiar's over the counter clay and wax with good results, especially for hiding swirls temporarily, but they faded or wore quickly in spite of all the effort. I have heard of ONR but don't know much about it or if it'd be a good choice. And in regards to drying, is that blade killing the paint?
What are the best adjustments to make to minimize swirls while being reasonable? And once the wash technique is adjusted, what's the easiest and best wax (or sealant?) choice? Keep in mind I DD and wash once or twice a week; is Rejex a good choice? Or some other product? I'm not going to convert to a non-driving waxer; my car will see rain and accrue mileage. My priority is maintaining the car as best I can while still driving it in all weather in spite of complications (apartment, quarter car washes only, etc). I think a clear bra might be a good choice as well. Bottom line is this car will get dirty; as clean as I keep it, a three day burst of heavy rain and bugs make for a challenging clean up. How do I do it while saving that clear coat?
Thanks in advance...
I live in an Apartment and have a garage. The only place I can wash a car is at those quarter car wash places with the pressure washers.
My old technique consisted of this: rinse the car while keeping the pressure washer far from the paint so as to avoid damage due to high pressure. Then, I would fill a clean bucket and mix in Meguiar's Gold Class; sometimes I used a microfiber wash mit, and sometimes I used an extra soft yellow dog-bone sponge; I would completely lather the car down before rinsing it off again. Then I would switch to a different sponge/mitt for the wheels and calipers and finish that way. For drying, I used a California Blade and a microfiber or soft towel to gently blot or wipe off any remaining water spots. I know now that this wasn't the best technique, but I'm not sure how I can improve...
I don't know where to begin. I guess two buckets would be a good start; I can't get too complicated though (leaf blowers to dry, etc.) and I can't wash my car at my apartment complex. I can wax or Rejex or whatever in the garage, though. In the past I used Meguiar's over the counter clay and wax with good results, especially for hiding swirls temporarily, but they faded or wore quickly in spite of all the effort. I have heard of ONR but don't know much about it or if it'd be a good choice. And in regards to drying, is that blade killing the paint?
What are the best adjustments to make to minimize swirls while being reasonable? And once the wash technique is adjusted, what's the easiest and best wax (or sealant?) choice? Keep in mind I DD and wash once or twice a week; is Rejex a good choice? Or some other product? I'm not going to convert to a non-driving waxer; my car will see rain and accrue mileage. My priority is maintaining the car as best I can while still driving it in all weather in spite of complications (apartment, quarter car washes only, etc). I think a clear bra might be a good choice as well. Bottom line is this car will get dirty; as clean as I keep it, a three day burst of heavy rain and bugs make for a challenging clean up. How do I do it while saving that clear coat?
Thanks in advance...
Last edited by KMK454; 11-03-2009 at 11:28 PM.
11-04-2009, 07:02 AM
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
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Oldtimer
I've never washed my Vette, but when I wash my TrailBlazer SS I use Griot's micro-fiber mitts. I start by hosing down everything to loosen the dirt, paying special attention along the rocker panels and behind the wheels. I let it sit for a few minutes and repeat the process one more time before I start washing. I prefer Zaino car wash (I like lots of suds) and have a grit guard in my bucket. Personally, I think the secret is to change the water in the bucket frequently. I start at the top and work my way down, using a different mitt for the top, center, and rocker panels. I have a cheap mitt that I bought at Walmart for washing the wheelwells. I do the wheels last and use a different mitt for them as well. As I mentioned, I change the water in the bucket frequently. I then dry it with Griot's micro-fiber towels. I have several, and generally use 3 or 4 to dry the vehicle.
I've found that swirls can be caused by grit, and the fabrics in your washing mitts and drying towels. That's why I always use micro-finer. I cringe when I think back to the 60's and 70's when I washed my cars with dish soap and dried them with bath towels. I you use a leaf blower you're minimizing contact with the paint, which could be beneficial. Good luck!
I've found that swirls can be caused by grit, and the fabrics in your washing mitts and drying towels. That's why I always use micro-finer. I cringe when I think back to the 60's and 70's when I washed my cars with dish soap and dried them with bath towels. I you use a leaf blower you're minimizing contact with the paint, which could be beneficial. Good luck!
11-04-2009, 07:40 AM
#3
Burning Brakes
Really your washing method seems fine. I think a leaf blower would help you out a lot on the drying. I use mine all the time and no swirl marks. I also use Zaino and have numerous coats on there... so I am sure that minimizes it as well.
Where are you located? I may be able to help you find a good clear bra installer. That will definately help with the front end.
Where are you located? I may be able to help you find a good clear bra installer. That will definately help with the front end.
11-04-2009, 08:14 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2004
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'19, '21-'22-'23-'24
I feel your pain!
..and no I'm not a past POTUS....
I am in the same situation, except we don't have those wash-it-yourself places any longer. I use a hand car wash place every time I use my C4 as soon as I am able to after I play with it.
I think that changing the wash water more frequently would help, in addition to using more M/Fiber mitts....more mitts the less chance of spreading dirt.
The real issue is we both have to drive back to where we are going to finish our detailing! IMHO, we just re-dirty our just-washed cars!
This winter I'm going to try one of those water-less car wash chemicals as a prep step, when i get back to my garage space, before I start to do my waxing steps. I have about resigned myself to the fact that unless you can wash in the same spot that you do the final detailing....we are just pushing dirt into the finish our way....we will never have any better than a ten footer finish, unless we don't drive our cars, ever.
Tom
I am in the same situation, except we don't have those wash-it-yourself places any longer. I use a hand car wash place every time I use my C4 as soon as I am able to after I play with it.
I think that changing the wash water more frequently would help, in addition to using more M/Fiber mitts....more mitts the less chance of spreading dirt.
The real issue is we both have to drive back to where we are going to finish our detailing! IMHO, we just re-dirty our just-washed cars!
This winter I'm going to try one of those water-less car wash chemicals as a prep step, when i get back to my garage space, before I start to do my waxing steps. I have about resigned myself to the fact that unless you can wash in the same spot that you do the final detailing....we are just pushing dirt into the finish our way....we will never have any better than a ten footer finish, unless we don't drive our cars, ever.
Tom
11-04-2009, 10:40 AM
#5
Racer
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Location: Lawrenceville GA
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For almost 10 years I washed and detailed my cars at the coin-op car washes when I lived in apartments. I think you are on the right track with your process.
Considering how you drive your car, I wouldn't worry excessively about your wash technique. You are doing it basically the same way I did mine. Consider using two buckets, one for rinsing, and keep quarters pumped into the machine so you can rinse more often.
Since time is quite literally money, having a good car wash technique is really important. Use at least two sponges, and determine how you can best wash your car effectively but very quickly. If you think your current process is delivering top results, stick with it.
You don't need a leaf blower, so forget it. While I've never had a problem with a blade, don't use it if you don't need it. Buy 3-4 large MF drying towels and use those instead. Use the spot free rinse setting at the car wash to help make drying easier.
Definitely research rinseless car wash processes like ONR and QEW. I think once you try that, your car washing life will become easier as you will not be tied to the coin-op wash and large amounts of quarters. Much has been written about rinseless washing here and elsewhere, so do some reading and spent a few bucks trying it.
Washing twice a week seems excessive. Any time you touch the paint, you swirl it. Considering how you drive and the damage done to your cars when driving, I think you can really benefit from rinseless washing. Also look into waterless washing and eco-friendly detailing. I think these might work for you better than the ol' bucket and hose process.
Use whatever wax you want, polish and detail when and where you can. I used to do as much detailing as possible at the coin-op location. I had elbow room, vacuums, and no hassles from the property manager. Do the best you can with what you have.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Considering how you drive your car, I wouldn't worry excessively about your wash technique. You are doing it basically the same way I did mine. Consider using two buckets, one for rinsing, and keep quarters pumped into the machine so you can rinse more often.
Since time is quite literally money, having a good car wash technique is really important. Use at least two sponges, and determine how you can best wash your car effectively but very quickly. If you think your current process is delivering top results, stick with it.
You don't need a leaf blower, so forget it. While I've never had a problem with a blade, don't use it if you don't need it. Buy 3-4 large MF drying towels and use those instead. Use the spot free rinse setting at the car wash to help make drying easier.
Definitely research rinseless car wash processes like ONR and QEW. I think once you try that, your car washing life will become easier as you will not be tied to the coin-op wash and large amounts of quarters. Much has been written about rinseless washing here and elsewhere, so do some reading and spent a few bucks trying it.
Washing twice a week seems excessive. Any time you touch the paint, you swirl it. Considering how you drive and the damage done to your cars when driving, I think you can really benefit from rinseless washing. Also look into waterless washing and eco-friendly detailing. I think these might work for you better than the ol' bucket and hose process.
Use whatever wax you want, polish and detail when and where you can. I used to do as much detailing as possible at the coin-op location. I had elbow room, vacuums, and no hassles from the property manager. Do the best you can with what you have.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
11-04-2009, 06:43 PM
#7
Former Vendor
Thanks for the kudo's ....
I learned my experiences from my wife (previously my s/o) when she lived in an apartment and left her truck outside 24/7 and we had water restrictions too.
Late in the evening I would travel to one of those spray booths (quarter machines) when nobody was there so I could bucket wash. I would prerinse the car with the spray and then fill two buckets one with soap and other with water. I would then wash car as normal using straight lines and rinsing mitt or towel at each panel. I would then dump rinse bucket at 1/2 point and spray off soap from 1 side and do the same on the opposing side. Once done, I would either wipe off in bay with a good MF Waffle Weave type towel, or I would backup and plug my blower in behind the vacuum.
The secret to keep a car as swirl free as possible outdoors "seems" to be a couple things and holds true when washing at home or even garage queens. Presoak as possible to remove any contaminent before rubbing a towel across it. (get the loose dirt off). Use good wash techniques (2 bucket, rinsing mitt often, straight lines), and drying techniques. (Leaf Blower, good soft towels with no ribbing).
Now I would add today that I also mist each panel with a quick detailer or spray wax prior to drying. It adds enough lubrication to allow the towel to glide across the surface and helps remove any waterspotting without heavy rubbing and abrading the paint.
Of course good waxing helps too ... I can tell you more than one night spent in those same bays adding a coat of a wax or two. I once found a local parking garage with electric socket that worked and started polishing paint outside of my own home. Just remember to pack well, its rather hard to stop in the middle missing a pad or towel, or product when your not in your own driveway !
I learned my experiences from my wife (previously my s/o) when she lived in an apartment and left her truck outside 24/7 and we had water restrictions too.
Late in the evening I would travel to one of those spray booths (quarter machines) when nobody was there so I could bucket wash. I would prerinse the car with the spray and then fill two buckets one with soap and other with water. I would then wash car as normal using straight lines and rinsing mitt or towel at each panel. I would then dump rinse bucket at 1/2 point and spray off soap from 1 side and do the same on the opposing side. Once done, I would either wipe off in bay with a good MF Waffle Weave type towel, or I would backup and plug my blower in behind the vacuum.
The secret to keep a car as swirl free as possible outdoors "seems" to be a couple things and holds true when washing at home or even garage queens. Presoak as possible to remove any contaminent before rubbing a towel across it. (get the loose dirt off). Use good wash techniques (2 bucket, rinsing mitt often, straight lines), and drying techniques. (Leaf Blower, good soft towels with no ribbing).
Now I would add today that I also mist each panel with a quick detailer or spray wax prior to drying. It adds enough lubrication to allow the towel to glide across the surface and helps remove any waterspotting without heavy rubbing and abrading the paint.
Of course good waxing helps too ... I can tell you more than one night spent in those same bays adding a coat of a wax or two. I once found a local parking garage with electric socket that worked and started polishing paint outside of my own home. Just remember to pack well, its rather hard to stop in the middle missing a pad or towel, or product when your not in your own driveway !
11-05-2009, 04:00 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2004
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Optimum No Rinse™ Wash & Shine
To the list of oxymoron’s add - the sunless tan, cheese less pizza, soap-free detergent and the no-water carwash.
An innovative product that protects automotive paint, while preserving our most valuable resource, water; enabling you to wash your car anywhere, anytime even inside your garage. It’s a multi-purpose product that serves as a shampoo additive, no rinse wash, quick detailer and clay lubricant.
Use as a winter car wash or in areas that have hosepipe ban, water usage restrictions, or where a water supply is not readily available (apartments, car shows, etc; cleans and protects while minimising water usage, 100% environmentally safe and it reduces water usage to a fraction of a conventional car wash, 1- oz ONR per 2- gallons of water to wash the entire car.
When sprayed on a dirty surface; surfactants break down the soil by releasing its surface tension or bond with the surface, encapsulating the soil particles, and the polymers provide surface lubrication to enable safe (marring free) removal
How does ONR work?
[The polymers in No Rinse have reactive groups that bond and trap dirt particles making the dirt particles virtually non-abrasive. They also bond to oily particles and emulsify them into water. The latter is equivalent to the cleaning action from soaps which also work by emulsifying oil particles into water. However, with soap there is no interaction with dirt. This is why adding No Rinse to a regular wash also helps protect the paint from dirt particles.
To the list of oxymoron’s add - the sunless tan, cheese less pizza, soap-free detergent and the no-water carwash.
An innovative product that protects automotive paint, while preserving our most valuable resource, water; enabling you to wash your car anywhere, anytime even inside your garage. It’s a multi-purpose product that serves as a shampoo additive, no rinse wash, quick detailer and clay lubricant.
Use as a winter car wash or in areas that have hosepipe ban, water usage restrictions, or where a water supply is not readily available (apartments, car shows, etc; cleans and protects while minimising water usage, 100% environmentally safe and it reduces water usage to a fraction of a conventional car wash, 1- oz ONR per 2- gallons of water to wash the entire car.
When sprayed on a dirty surface; surfactants break down the soil by releasing its surface tension or bond with the surface, encapsulating the soil particles, and the polymers provide surface lubrication to enable safe (marring free) removal
How does ONR work?
[The polymers in No Rinse have reactive groups that bond and trap dirt particles making the dirt particles virtually non-abrasive. They also bond to oily particles and emulsify them into water. The latter is equivalent to the cleaning action from soaps which also work by emulsifying oil particles into water. However, with soap there is no interaction with dirt. This is why adding No Rinse to a regular wash also helps protect the paint from dirt particles.
Author of 110 in-depth, unbiased “Technical Detailing Papers” and a 560 page "Automotive Detailing, Inside & Out" a knowledge base for the perfectionist TOGWT ™ Ltd copyright 2002-2009, all rights reserved.
