TOPCATHR

I never thought clay was needed. I just detailed my 99 black vert and decided to try clay. I have to say it did make a difference. I clayed the car and polished it with wolfgang
total swirl remover. I then used merenzra polish lock.
I applied it with a lc white pad and my porter cable ro buffer.

ZaneO

Routine claying will keep your finish looking its best. Once or twice year with a complete detail will make a huge difference.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

There is a "new" and additional step in detailing I often suggest now, especially to lighter colored cars. Use Iron-X and be amazed at all the metal deposits on paint.

wash -- IronX---Clay -- Polish ---Protect

TOGWT

As Scott rightfully states; paint decontamination systems were developed as a method of removing paint contamination that is embedded in the paint surface; beyond what can be removed by washing or claying alone.

killain

I decided to clay my entire 2003. I ran my hand inside a sheet of saran warp and I could feel all the particles so it is necessary and I'm decided to clay the blue tinted Targa top as well. I ordered all I needed from Autopia car care. They sell a really good product and what I was thinking was a quick wash of the corvette then pull it inside the garage and start with the front and work my way to the rear with the clay bar. I was a little scared of a big job as I have degenerative disc disease, so a long day of leaning over a hood is out of the question. The pain is way too much.

But I thought I'd wash it, pull it in the garage and clay as much as i can, then maybe finish it the next day, but I also decided to seal the paint with 12 oz. RejeX paint sealant. I have read here that a lot of you folks have used the RejeX paint sealant with good results. I thought I'd follow the process with another wash and apply a coat of polish or wax, I've used Turtle wax "Ice" with really good results. Any of your thoughts are very welcome. Thank you !

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

There are newer paint sealants that you can apply in a light application and need little to no buffing. Optimums Optiseal and Ultima Paint Care are two versions. If you decide not to clay I still highly suggest using Iron-X to decontaminent paint once annually. Its spray, all to sit, and wash as normal or rinse.

http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-iron-x-cleaner.html

Stan MI

Just some thoughts on the REJEX.

Since you posted about the disk problem thought I'd offer up my experience with your choice of sealant. Most folks have no issue with it, easy on easy off. I have had a completely different time with it. I've tried putting it on VERY thin, used detail spray on the applicator pad and put on what I would call a light coat. It takes a ton of rubbing to get it off. I would suggest to try a small area and make sure it comes off easy for you. If it comes off like it does for me it takes over an hour just to buff off.

JMT's

killain

Hi Stan,
Thank you for the reply. I order the "rejeX" because it said it was a 'Paint Sealant' but the more I read from the RejeX website it seems that it not only is a paint sealant, but also a polish and that you don't need a wax after using it. Also it needs 12 hours to 'cure'. But the thing that has me kinda suspicious is that after treating the car to the "rejeX' I'm wondering if a good synthetic wax like the "Ice" will even stick to the paint treated to the rejeX ? So in light oof that, I think I'm better off sending the rejeX back and just claying the car, which seems a very easy task, followed by a good coat of the Turtle wax's "Ice".

With my injury, I just can't do something like a Zanio job on the car. The pain is just way too much. I'd am envious of you guys who do a five star Zanio application and keep it looking better than when it was new, but that isn't a possibility for me.