Hard water spots on glass
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2004
Location: Ponte Vedra Beach / London State: Dazed and confused
Posts: 2,909
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Water doesn’t leave marks or etch glass; it’s the minerals that it contains calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) and reactivity (heat acting as a catalyst) the spots are actually traces of minerals left on the surface.
Alternatively they can be caused by industrial pollution (i.e. acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout)
Generally surface water-spots have no raised edges and are very shallow and so cannot be felt, they are very similar to micro-fine surface marring. They cannot be removed from the surface by washing but they can usually be removed with a slightly abrasive chemical paint cleaner
Note: Vinegar is a liquid produced from the fermentation of ethanol in a process that yields its key ingredient, Acetic (Ethanoic acid)
There are two categories of water mark (the so-called water spots)
Stage I (Surface) Corrosion
[: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]
Stage II (Sub-surface) Corrosion
[: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface( a concave circular mark ) after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]
a) Surface water spots- (Stage I Corrosion) alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline
b) Below surface (etched) spots- (Stage II Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Unlike water spots which typically have a white outline of the spot, acid rain etching is smaller and you can see the damage in the clear coat.
Inspect the surface etching under magnification, and then you will be able to assess the damage. Magnification will allow you to view paint flaws in perfect detail. View the edges of acid rain or water spot damage, and the hard-to-see depth of scratches. Only then, you will be able to assess the real damage. The edge should be levelled, which will make the etched depression almost invisible.
Etched acid rain spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more than one attempt to remove them.
Acid spots require an abrasive polish to level the surface (some stubborn marks may require wet sanding) and an alkaline solution to neutralize them, simply rinsing a vehicle with deionised water or tap water activates / reactivates the acid concentrates.
Alternatively they can be caused by industrial pollution (i.e. acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout)
Generally surface water-spots have no raised edges and are very shallow and so cannot be felt, they are very similar to micro-fine surface marring. They cannot be removed from the surface by washing but they can usually be removed with a slightly abrasive chemical paint cleaner
Note: Vinegar is a liquid produced from the fermentation of ethanol in a process that yields its key ingredient, Acetic (Ethanoic acid)
There are two categories of water mark (the so-called water spots)
Stage I (Surface) Corrosion
[: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]
Stage II (Sub-surface) Corrosion
[: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface( a concave circular mark ) after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]
a) Surface water spots- (Stage I Corrosion) alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline
b) Below surface (etched) spots- (Stage II Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Unlike water spots which typically have a white outline of the spot, acid rain etching is smaller and you can see the damage in the clear coat.
Inspect the surface etching under magnification, and then you will be able to assess the damage. Magnification will allow you to view paint flaws in perfect detail. View the edges of acid rain or water spot damage, and the hard-to-see depth of scratches. Only then, you will be able to assess the real damage. The edge should be levelled, which will make the etched depression almost invisible.
Etched acid rain spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more than one attempt to remove them.
Acid spots require an abrasive polish to level the surface (some stubborn marks may require wet sanding) and an alkaline solution to neutralize them, simply rinsing a vehicle with deionised water or tap water activates / reactivates the acid concentrates.
#5
Le Mans Master
Moved into a house where the sprinkler hit two windows. For the life of me could not get them cleaned. Even tried using my Flex and polishing compounds with little luck. Tried about a half dozen different glass cleaning compounds as well.
Then someone on this forum recommended I try white vinegar on a paper towel. Perfect solution, melted the scale right off.
Then someone on this forum recommended I try white vinegar on a paper towel. Perfect solution, melted the scale right off.
#7
50:50 Vinegar and water almost always work, unless it has etched the paint, but this should work fine on glass. Depending on how hard the calcium deposits are, you may have to spray it on and let dwell a few minutes.
#8
Former Vendor
vinegar will only remove recent spots, not etched in spots. Unfortunately you will need to consider a chemical cleaning agent or perhaps even a polish with cerium oxide in it. If you choose the later, then travel with care. Carpro offers a product as needed called Ceriglass.
#9
Instructor
I've used and with very good and repeatable success Bonami. Bonami is inexpensive, non abrasive and worth a try depending on how pitted the glass surface is. Make sure you do a propper rincing as it can get a bit messy while cleaning.
RB
RB
#11
Le Mans Master
I used Barkeeper's Friend on the windshield of my boat last summer with good results. I usually use it for the non skid deck surfaces, but decided to try it on the glass and it worked pretty well.
Might be worth a try. You can get it in Target or Wal-Mart for under $2 a can.
Might be worth a try. You can get it in Target or Wal-Mart for under $2 a can.
#12
Burning Brakes
I've had great results using a glass polish made and sold by a car care products company that is not a paid sponsor here. I use it with their 3" orbital polisher on my DD once a year. Every spring it gets rained on and then the sun comes out baking the contaminates on the windows.
What would vinegar do to the paint should you get some on the car?
What would vinegar do to the paint should you get some on the car?
#17
Thank you
QUOTE=RollerRoy;1583970123]Yea, it's actual the minerals that are in the water that makes those marks. I never did try taking those water spots off. Will try though since there are so many recommendations.[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=RollerRoy;1583970123]Yea, it's actual the minerals that are in the water that makes those marks. I never did try taking those water spots off. Will try though since there are so many recommendations.[/QUOTE]
#20
Le Mans Master
I had that problem but found the solution when I was getting a broken window replaced. The auto-glass place does all sorts of glass replacements including shower stalls. I asked him if he had something and he sold me some stuff that removes anything from shower stall glass.So my suggestion is go to the glass place and ask.
Clif
Clif