mike100

I finally met my match with a 94 C4 with a lot of deep RIDS and neglect from dry rubbing wipe downs. It still compounded and polished out to a high overall gloss, but may deep scratches remained. I think it may have even needed wet sanding on a couple of panels.
I want to get a rotary, but how do I mitigate the steep learning curve for a home-gamer like myself who has never worked in the auto body trade?

thoughts:
-use a foam pad for starters
-practice on sh!tbox cars
-paint thickness tools ?
-a detail clinic that would offer some hands on (?)

Has anybody learned this art without inflicting too many mistakes on nice cars?

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

http://www.autogeek.net/buffer-polisher.html

perhaps this might help get you started ....

mike100

The working speed and pad pressure are completely different. I guess I'm going to get one and see how it goes.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

correct .... a rotary all builds up and transfers a lot more heat. It will cut faster (correct paint) and extra care is needed especially on lightly painted areas and corners. With a little care, it can be a very valuable tool.

mike100

Update---Got a pawn shop Black and Decker 6138 which is an industrial line of B&D tool that is now more commonly known as the Dewalt 849. It was still made in the USA back in 90-something. It's a little older, but good to know all the 849 spare parts are the same. I even found a velcro backing plate on another rotary tool that they threw in with the deal. I just couldn't justify going all in for a new one at $200. Hoping to test this out on something (not my stuff, lol) soon.

FASTFATBOY

I have found that M105 on a LC orange pad with a Porter Cable XP 7424 turned all the way up used with a water spritzer will do a TON of work.

scott5

^^^ Yes it does! And that is the combo that I use a lot on my stuff, but have been wanting to try different things

Elba Mike

I watched the you tube videos by Junkman 2000, used the supplies he recommended and his process. I am amazed at how easy and well it works, as I had never used a buffer on paint. My paint is so bad that I skipped the clay bar, and went right to the compounds.

cmonkey713

Great videos and exactly what you need to learn technique and proper use of buffers, pads and products.

FASTFATBOY

Only skip claybar if paint is in good shape. You made your job harder.

mike100

Just to clarify; I already have a porter cable DA and the Flex as well. The reason for the rotary is that I have been running into situations where it might save me time or provide a little more heat for deeper scratches.

I may have a victim I can practice on- it's a 92 Toyota MR2. The only problem is it was made before toyota started using clear coat paints so it's gonna turn my brand new $12 rotary foam pad red.

Elba Mike

It would take 10 lbs of clay and a year on this paint.

FASTFATBOY

You still need to do it, you are pulling all the contaminates into your pad and scratching the paint with it. So the pad is trying to polish and scratch at the same time. You are also putting scratch agents into your pad that may never come out.

There is a reason you do the sandwich bag test on your hand before you start.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

There is some serious paint polishing that can be done with orbitals. It comes down to using the correct polishes and pads. Microfiber cutting pads often can equal the outcome of rotary polishing when done properly .... just another option versus buying another machine.

http://www.autogeek.net/microfiber-buffing-pads1.html

Elba Mike

You're right, and in a more normal situation, I will. The part I'm referring to, which I didn't make very clear, is the area behind the t tops. I spent 20 minutes with clay on a 6" x 14" section with very poor result. I could feel ridges in the surface. So I buffed that area with light compound, and it came out much better than I anticipated. The hood clay barred fairly easy, and is buffed and ready for polish. This car spent years under a carport, was covered with filth and needs to be repainted. Since its a driver for me, I'll clean up what paint is on it and leave it at that.

cmonkey713

I would respectfully disagree. Put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and gently rub it over a horizontal surface of the car. In 99.9% of cases it will feel like sandpaper under your fingers. These are the surface bonded contaminants you are feeling and they need to come off before you polish. this is why you always clay bar first. It also gives you a chance to inspect every square inch the surface before you begin to polish.