What coating would you recommend for my Vette
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
What coating would you recommend for my Vette
What's up Car Care section of CF!
I'm in the middle of paint correction using Meguiars Ultimate Compound and a Griots random orb. Been reading for hours about sealants and coatings but maybe one of you has tried a good one on a similar color. I want to try a coating over sealants for thicker/better and longer protection. Dont want to have to keep digging into this 22 yr old clear coat too much in the future. Here she is!
I know the pictures are crappy, I rushed taking them bc I wanted to tell everyone about it. This is pre-claybarring and pre-polishing, taken the day after I bought her a few months ago. What do you guys recommend that will really make this blue pop?? I'm willing to add a wax or sealant on top of the coating if needed for more pop or depth. Budget is $500! lol jk I love her but lets say $100-200 Thank you!
I'm in the middle of paint correction using Meguiars Ultimate Compound and a Griots random orb. Been reading for hours about sealants and coatings but maybe one of you has tried a good one on a similar color. I want to try a coating over sealants for thicker/better and longer protection. Dont want to have to keep digging into this 22 yr old clear coat too much in the future. Here she is!
I know the pictures are crappy, I rushed taking them bc I wanted to tell everyone about it. This is pre-claybarring and pre-polishing, taken the day after I bought her a few months ago. What do you guys recommend that will really make this blue pop?? I'm willing to add a wax or sealant on top of the coating if needed for more pop or depth. Budget is $500! lol jk I love her but lets say $100-200 Thank you!
Last edited by jay23ls; 10-10-2016 at 08:34 AM.
#2
Drifting
I would recommend to further refine the paint with a nice finishing polish such as Menzenra SF4500 or M205. A coating is great but what is under it is under it. Tae the time to correct the finish as best as possible.
Wolgang Uber would a great choice to begin with. Thicker is not better-generally it means you have wasted product and money. Thin is where it is at with any wax/sealant/coating.
When finished you will still periodically want to use a booster to help maximize longevity.
Wolgang Uber would a great choice to begin with. Thicker is not better-generally it means you have wasted product and money. Thin is where it is at with any wax/sealant/coating.
When finished you will still periodically want to use a booster to help maximize longevity.
The following 2 users liked this post by yamabob:
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#3
Instructor
Totally agree.......your final glass coat would be the icing on the cake. You want to make sure that the existing finish is as optically clear as possible. All surface contaminants removed, defects leveled out taking the least aggressive approach and then an enhancement polishing to bring that metallic flake up and make the paint pop. If you have never worked with a glass coat, this first time is the make it or break it. Proper lighting, dust and dirt free environment, a very good eye to level out and remove the carriers and avoiding high spots. These products do dry fast, once they set they can become a bitch to level out and or remove.
This is one of the forum members C7 Z06 that was in on Friday to do some light correction on his glass coating ad an additional booster coat and then correct all the recently acquired CF parts and glass coat them.
Proper maintenance of these coatings are the key to longevity!
This is one of the forum members C7 Z06 that was in on Friday to do some light correction on his glass coating ad an additional booster coat and then correct all the recently acquired CF parts and glass coat them.
Proper maintenance of these coatings are the key to longevity!
The following 2 users liked this post by Innovative714:
GoFast908Z (11-01-2016),
jay23ls (10-10-2016)
#4
Former Vendor
Wolfgang Uber Coating .... simple, and will enhance your finish and offer long term protection. Study good washing and drying techniques too !
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-ube...c-coating.html
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-ube...c-coating.html
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Totally agree.......your final glass coat would be the icing on the cake. You want to make sure that the existing finish is as optically clear as possible. All surface contaminants removed, defects leveled out taking the least aggressive approach and then an enhancement polishing to bring that metallic flake up and make the paint pop. If you have never worked with a glass coat, this first time is the make it or break it. Proper lighting, dust and dirt free environment, a very good eye to level out and remove the carriers and avoiding high spots. These products do dry fast, once they set they can become a bitch to level out and or remove.
This is one of the forum members C7 Z06 that was in on Friday to do some light correction on his glass coating ad an additional booster coat and then correct all the recently acquired CF parts and glass coat them.
Proper maintenance of these coatings are the key to longevity!
This is one of the forum members C7 Z06 that was in on Friday to do some light correction on his glass coating ad an additional booster coat and then correct all the recently acquired CF parts and glass coat them.
Proper maintenance of these coatings are the key to longevity!
C7 looks amazing btw
#6
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: NE OH
Posts: 6,682
Received 1,033 Likes
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10
Just did an metallic Aegean Blue Honda with 2 coats Kamikaze Miyabi + 1 coat Kamikaze ISM. Topped with Kamikaze Overcoat, simply amazing, luscious shine. Durability supposed to be 24-36 months.
Have a black C5 and black WRX done with WG Uber + periodic Kamikaze Overcoat. Looks great and maint. is a breeze. All the coatings (Kamikaze/WG Uber) crazy easy to apply, like they say though, compound/polish paint to as perfect as you can get it before coating.
Pic of the C5 that hadn't been washed in over a month, driven daily, sat outside in rain many times.
Have a black C5 and black WRX done with WG Uber + periodic Kamikaze Overcoat. Looks great and maint. is a breeze. All the coatings (Kamikaze/WG Uber) crazy easy to apply, like they say though, compound/polish paint to as perfect as you can get it before coating.
Pic of the C5 that hadn't been washed in over a month, driven daily, sat outside in rain many times.
Last edited by BudgetPlan1; 10-10-2016 at 07:05 PM.
The following users liked this post:
ronkh57 (10-13-2016)
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I would recommend to further refine the paint with a nice finishing polish such as Menzenra SF4500 or M205. A coating is great but what is under it is under it. Tae the time to correct the finish as best as possible.
Wolgang Uber would a great choice to begin with. Thicker is not better-generally it means you have wasted product and money. Thin is where it is at with any wax/sealant/coating.
When finished you will still periodically want to use a booster to help maximize longevity.
Wolgang Uber would a great choice to begin with. Thicker is not better-generally it means you have wasted product and money. Thin is where it is at with any wax/sealant/coating.
When finished you will still periodically want to use a booster to help maximize longevity.
#8
Former Vendor
I too suggest using Menzerna as a finishing polish. While Megs is nice, there is something about the level of gloss Menzerna polishes finish with. SF3800 would be my suggestion for a finishing polish.
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Just did an metallic Aegean Blue Honda with 2 coats Kamikaze Miyabi + 1 coat Kamikaze ISM. Topped with Kamikaze Overcoat, simply amazing, luscious shine. Durability supposed to be 24-36 months.
Have a black C5 and black WRX done with WG Uber + periodic Kamikaze Overcoat. Looks great and maint. is a breeze. All the coatings (Kamikaze/WG Uber) crazy easy to apply, like they say though, compound/polish paint to as perfect as you can get it before coating.
Pic of the C5 that hadn't been washed in over a month, driven daily, sat outside in rain many times.
Have a black C5 and black WRX done with WG Uber + periodic Kamikaze Overcoat. Looks great and maint. is a breeze. All the coatings (Kamikaze/WG Uber) crazy easy to apply, like they say though, compound/polish paint to as perfect as you can get it before coating.
Pic of the C5 that hadn't been washed in over a month, driven daily, sat outside in rain many times.
Thanks for the info. What 2nd polish did you use if any or what would you recommend? I'm thinking about stepping up to something like Menzerna as the 2nd one to get that "gloss like a boss" look
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Strongly taking that into consideration and using the Megs UP on my "regular" car lol thanks. Will order from you guys
Last edited by jay23ls; 10-10-2016 at 08:37 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Killrwheels@Autogeek (10-11-2016)
#11
Former Vendor
There are so many good two step polishes currently .... I still stick with Menzerna. That said Wolfgang, and Megs offer great alternatives.
If you need any help or hints, please consider PM'ing me or visiting our forum. Mike Phillips has no shortage of videos and posts to help also.
If you need any help or hints, please consider PM'ing me or visiting our forum. Mike Phillips has no shortage of videos and posts to help also.
#12
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: NE OH
Posts: 6,682
Received 1,033 Likes
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10
- WG Total Swirl Remover, LC Orange then yellow pad
- WG Uber Compound with LC Orange then yellow pad
- Megs M101 with LC Orange then yellow pad
Finally hit upon Megs D300 with their microfiber cutting discs which smoothed the edges of the etchings and removed the stains in the interior of the etchings. Finished that up with WG Finishing Glaze on white LC pad, all with Griots 6" DA using 5.5" pads on 5" backing plate. I've come to really like the D300 with microfiber cutting discs for medium/heavier defect removal. They finish really nice as well...as long as you keep the microfiber pad/disc clean after each section.
Finished it with WG Finishing Glaze on white LC flat pad.
Ever since stumbling upon it I've come to believe that the Kamikaze Overcoat is a primary reason the cars stay looking good in addition to the underlying coating protecting long term. But that's just what works for me. I'm sure other products/options garner the same kinda enthusiasm for other folks. As Mike Phillips says: "Find something you like and use it often".
Last edited by BudgetPlan1; 10-12-2016 at 02:49 PM.
#13
We use Meguire's Resin Glaze #7 and Blitz wax by 1 Grand. Learned detailing from my F-I-L... I trust him when it comes to paint work. That's what he uses for the show cars.
Here's some of his work for a little reference so you know he's not an Earl Schieb type of guy.
Here's some of his work for a little reference so you know he's not an Earl Schieb type of guy.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
We use Meguire's Resin Glaze #7 and Blitz wax by 1 Grand. Learned detailing from my F-I-L... I trust him when it comes to paint work. That's what he uses for the show cars.
Here's some of his work for a little reference so you know he's not an Earl Schieb type of guy.
Here's some of his work for a little reference so you know he's not an Earl Schieb type of guy.
#15
#16
That's actually a Ferrari N.A.R.T. Spider he did for John Moores. That is a 20 year old paint job that took third place at Peeble Beach a couple years ago.
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for the responses fellas! When I finish the paint correction and detail I will share pics
#20
Race Director
Thanks,
Rick