HammerDown

Boy, it sure is shiny.

I haven't had a chance to look at the car in bright sunlight, but it was under some parking lot lights a couple of nights ago and it was really glistening. The admiral blue seemed to have more depth as well. I used the paste instead of the liquid.

Now for the criticisms...

If you don't put this stuff on thin it is a bugger to get off. I did the first half of my hood being careful to put it on very sparingly, but by the second half I had an accumulation of wax in the applicator so the coat got thicker. When I went to take it off, the side I did second took some serious elbow grease, as well as a damp microfiber to remove. I found that as the applicator started to accumulate more wax, rather than getting more from the container, I'd just spritz the pad with a little water and that would allow me to keep putting a thin layer on the car.

It dusts a little, but only when you put it on too thick.

It only hid the lightest of swirls and scratches. Still, for a one-step process, it looked pretty good. I really need to go over the top part of my car with a buffer and something more aggressive than 3M SMR, but I'm too skeered.

Lastly, the paste wax is kind of hard to get out of the container without getting it all over the edges of the foam applicator, and all over your hands. This stuff is pretty soft compared to most paste waxes I've tried, it almost has the consistency of ice cream.

I wish I could get some pictures, but the weather has not been pleasant over the last few days. When I do get some I'll try to post them.

Anyone else have an opinion of this stuff?

Silver2002

I always liked the performance of the Meguiars stuff pretty well, but always disliked the chalky residue they seem to leave behind.

HammerDown

Yeah, I disliked that about Meguiar's products, too. Liquid Cleaner Wax is especially bad about that. Their High Tech Yellow Wax #26 is not too bad, if you don't put it on heavy. I think that's the key to most of the Meguiars products; if you put a thin coat on, you won't get as much of the residue when you remove it.

I'm interested to see how long the Gold Class lasts. It's pretty cold here now, but in the summer we'll see how it stands up to the Alabama sun.

Killrwheels

might wanna try Pinnacle Soveran or Signature Series. Neither chalks and both come off damp (no hard rubbing, just like butter). The depth is miles ahead of the Gold Class also .... at least IMO. (and some others)
http://www.pinnaclewax.com or http://www.autogeek.net (if you need a couponcode to save 10% off just IM me, or check some other Pinnacle posts )

oldace84

I've used it. But no big deal. Average.
tony
:crazy:

DetailingDude

:cool:

I find that with most part you can far less with a paste.


I wouldn't suggest you mix the wax with water before it's bonded with the paint. The reason that it is easier to buff off is that it hasn't bonded properly. Wax is resistive to water and you're changing the wax before it bonds with the piant. I suggest that you put on the wax so that it's a very thin sheen on the paint. Do that several times and you can increas the depth of shine, the clarity of the color and the integrity of the protection.

The white powder is a drying agent. Obviously with less wax applied there will be less powder, but it will also be easier to buff off.

I think you should take the dive and do the entire process over again.... this time stripping it all the way down to the bare nekkid paint. Then inspect the paint to see what sort of blemishes you have..... if any. Then treat the blemishes, then go back to protecting the surface with the Gold Class Wax. That's when you're going to notice a huge difference in the luster. As I said before put on several thin layers.

Well then be more careful next time!!! :jester

If you don't have an account you can sign up with a fellow forum member's site for free to host your pictures. http://www.Photo-Host.org

Looking forward to the pictures.

:cheers:

HammerDown

DD-

I wanted to do the complete process, but I was really just eager to try the wax to see how easy it was to apply and remove. That has really become somewhat of a pet peeve of mine with waxes; if I have to spend more time removing the wax than putting it on, that's a big negative with me. Also, if you have to rub hard to get the dried wax off, you're probably going to put swirls or scratches in the paint.

I'm pretty sure my car had little to no wax left on it when I started. I was sick the entire month of December, and the car sat outside uncovered the entire time. It had dirt, bird poo, grass and tree clippings, and a scuff mark on the hood when I was finally well enough to get outside and look at it. Downside to living in an apartment w/o a garage.

Anyway, I got most of the scuff mark off with a combination of Meguiar's Scratch X and 3M SMR, but there were still some scratches left. There are some bird poopy marks left on the hood, too. I've just gotten to the point where I'm willing to clay and wax, but nothing more involved until I can move into a house with a garage and do it right. Trying to keep the thing looking like a show car when it sits outside at the apartment is like pissin' in the wind.

So if spraying the applicator with water is bad, why does Mother's say to lightly dampen the applicator when using their paste waxes?