Ron Davis Radiator/Oil Cooler install ?? - Doug Rippie
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2005
Location: East Liberty OH
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ron Davis Radiator/Oil Cooler install ?? - Doug Rippie
I was talking with Randy today about the install but I forget what he told me was the side of the block adapter that is the output (that's the one that needs to go to the bottom of the radiator cooler).
Anyone remember?
Randy? (I'll try you tomorrow but I don't know if you guys are open on Saturday)
Anyone remember?
Randy? (I'll try you tomorrow but I don't know if you guys are open on Saturday)
#2
Former Vendor
Open on Saturday, kinda of. I am here at the shop now. The front is out- it goes to the bottom of the radiator- with the short line. Front-out-bottom-short line.
Randy
PS I pmed you my cell number
Randy
PS I pmed you my cell number
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2005
Location: East Liberty OH
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Couple of install tips for the oil cooler lines:
1) Adapter block is extremely hard to install with StainlessWorks headers. I should have just removed the header. Required removing the oil filter and threading in the bolts by hand for the first 1/2 of the threads. Sounds easy but it took almost 2 hours of trying actually get it to work because you need 3 or 4 hands and the braided lines don't exactly cooperate. 1/4" drive sockets here are your friend. There's just not much room with those headers. If you can't keep a socket on the bolt the whole time your taking out the stock part, you're probably better off just removing the header.
2) Feed the short braided line through the gap between the block and motor mount first, and then keep it on the bottom when you feed though the longer line. Had to remove the bolt holding the wire harness just forward of the motor mount to get the pre-assembled lines (with 90 deg fittings) to fit through.
3) 8-9 ft of wire harness corregated tubing is enough to cover all the braided lines and insure that they don't chafe on anything. Put it before you even get under the car.
No leaks!!
1) Adapter block is extremely hard to install with StainlessWorks headers. I should have just removed the header. Required removing the oil filter and threading in the bolts by hand for the first 1/2 of the threads. Sounds easy but it took almost 2 hours of trying actually get it to work because you need 3 or 4 hands and the braided lines don't exactly cooperate. 1/4" drive sockets here are your friend. There's just not much room with those headers. If you can't keep a socket on the bolt the whole time your taking out the stock part, you're probably better off just removing the header.
2) Feed the short braided line through the gap between the block and motor mount first, and then keep it on the bottom when you feed though the longer line. Had to remove the bolt holding the wire harness just forward of the motor mount to get the pre-assembled lines (with 90 deg fittings) to fit through.
3) 8-9 ft of wire harness corregated tubing is enough to cover all the braided lines and insure that they don't chafe on anything. Put it before you even get under the car.
No leaks!!