yellow c5r vette

we could only get to a -1.0 on the LH side of a 97 frame I'm using for a road race car. Sub frame is from Z06 ? .
97 should NOT have been hit before.
Any ideas about subframe offset? and any tricks out there to get more.
Thks

TedDBere

There is actually some play in the subframe from side to side. A good Corvette race mechanic will loosen the four subframe bolts, move the sub over as far as possible or needed and re-tighten the subframe.

Good luck.

yellow c5r vette

We figured that there was so very little movement in the sub frame that this still would not get us to the settings that I've read some of you are using.
EG: we had readings of -1.0 LH and -1.5+ RH with bolt settings to the max. While we discussed shifting the sub frame to the left to push the LH side out more at the bottom, we didn't think that we would get very far and we'd set up the rest of the car already so we just set -1.0 both side.
In theory we might have been able to get the extra from the Rh to move over to the LH a bit say -1.25 each side but I was still shotting for a -1.5 or more for both sides.
A bent frame dosen't make much sent at this point either based on a. no damage history and b. one would tend to think that other things should have show up as we'd checked the bare frame before the build but didn't have it on a full frame platform.
I know we can perhaps modify the upper mountings or control arms I just wondered if anybody had come across this before.
Thks

TedDBere

Have you lowered the car yet? Lowering it will get you more negative camber too. The rears should max out between -1.3 and -1.5 with the stock bolts.

MrEracer

I had the same problem with my '97. To solve the problem I removed the aluminum spindle carrier from the upper and lower 'A' arms and removed the wheel bearing and hub and angle machined the bearing face for -1.5* camber. You will have to add an additional washer to the bolt that holds the brake caliper bracket. I am very happy with the results.
Shirl Dickey

Bill Dearborn

I could never get more than -.8 rear camber on my 97. Left side was -.7 and right side -.8. I never lowered the car.

Bill

yellow c5r vette

Thks very much for the input and to some degree it's nice to here that others have had the same issue.
Yes we have lowered the car as much as possible with the stock bolts and it seems to react fine as the car is also lighter than stock since it's gutted. Although I can see know how we can perhaps "adjust" other items to make up for the much needed - camber I think we will have to live with the -1.0 for this weekend as we're off to this cars first race at Rivers Edge in Mission B.C Canada (just north from SIR or Pacific raceways? in Seattle) (look at SCCBC.NET)
While we certainly have a few C5's around up here and in our clubs I'm really the only one (perhaps dumb enough) to go out and build up a C5 road race car from the ground up.
While I'm still new to this whole forum thing it's really a great way to share information and this forum (read you folks) has been a great help to this whole project. When my son can get at it we'll be able to post some pictures of our car.
thks again
Cheers

0C5stein

I align over 250 C5s and C6s each year and what you are discribing, uneven camber capability, is very common. I hope you are using tire temps to determine how much negative camber and tire pressure to run. In alot of cases, more than one degree of negative camber is too much for the rear running compound or street tires, but the only way to really find out is to get hot tire temps accross the face of the tire (in the pit lane) immediately after 5 or so laps at full speed. For racing slicks neg 1 degree, or more, is pretty common to get good tire temps.