Wicked Weasel

Everytime I go to the track I want to make sure I have enough pad left to last amount of sessions I will be doing.

This means that many times I am swapping out 1/2 used pads for new ones. I now have a bunch of 1/2 used pads laying around that I dont know what to do with.

What is everyone else doing? For now I can switch back and forth because I have the Hawk HP + pads that are good on and off the track, but I see this becoming an issue when I go to full race pads.

I guess for a 2 day session I could take 2 sets of old ones with me and swap them at the end of the first day. Front swaps are easy so maybe that is the best solution.

yellow01

Run the 1/2 used pad until it's done, if you have to switch at the track then do it.

Depends on how many groups your folks run, we run 5 different groups total, ~30 minutes per group if you count in-and-out time... which means roughtly 1:45 to 2 hours between sessions. More than enough time to change pads if you get stuck doing it between sessions.

or as you say, do it the first evening.

the blur

save the 1/2 pads for 1 day events.

Wicked Weasel

probably the best idea. I just hate changing these things in and out even if it is easy. Looks like I will be at Limerock (1 day) in June so I will put the old ones in and then switch to new ones for WGI in July (2 days).

I have to change the rotors for July anyway

wtknght1

I sell my 1/2 pads (Carbotechs) to the DE guys. Most won't go thru 1/2 a pad in a weekend...unless it's Sebring or some place like that. I have a couple of sets XP12s Front and XP10s rear if anyone is interested.

95jersey

I run my pads to the rivits (if they are carbotech). But I always bring an extra full set of front and rears to each event in case. I have changed many rotors and pads at the track.

Hey if the pads get worn to the rivits, the worst case is that you destroy a $20 rotor. I guess the moral here is that pads cost more $$$$ than rotors, so don't worry about trashing a rotor or two.

John Shiels

or you boil the fluid and can't stop then crash . Pad material is also an insulation. I ran mine down to just about nothing once and it was not good. I was in a heated battle with a race Viper. I barely made the turn at Devil's Elbow and he didn't and spun. I'd say leave an 1/8" minimum and run some heat shields to help. Bob get some Wilwood SL-6 then you pull the wheel and remove one long allen head & tube and slide the pads in. Very simple swap and fast swap. More money spent

the blur

you can run the pf pads right down to the backing plate. Then the metal on metal stops the car real well.

Sidney004

I am interested in buying used rear racing pads for a C4. PM me if anyone out there has any.

Sidney

larryfs

i may have some panther + rears #413