NoOne

I saw someone on here post about using a pressure bleeder.

They screw a cap onto the MS resovoir, pump it up with a few inches of pressure and uncap each corner. This apparently applies enough pressure to open the poppet valves in the ABS unit and gives you a full bleed.

What do I need to buy for this? I'm getting ready to prep the car for the 26th next weekend and want to give this a shot for a more complete bleed.

I will be not able to get ahold of a Tech II next week so this sounded like the next best thing.

Thanks

yellow01

Motive power bleeder is what I use. Exactly as you describe. It is all that is required and works like a champ.

Jon

AU N EGL

Lots of guys use them. Motive Power bleeder.

take 50 cc syrange or turkey baster and suck out old brake fluid from MC.

Fill with new brake fluid

attach power bleeder and pump up to 12-15 psi.

Bleed rear two calipers.

check fluid in mc, add more if needed

pump back to 12-15 psi

do front two calipers.

add brake fluid between 1/2 and full line. do not add TOO full line, heat expansion you know.

Good Luck

Jason

Check the seal between your MC and powerbleeder attachment cap real good before adding fluid to the tank. Ask me how I know.

NoOne

Great, thanks!

Anyone know of a brick and mortar store that carries them?

AU N EGL

I only put fluid in the MC, never in the pressure bleeder tank.

Made a differnt cap too. Went to a auto parts store and bought a MC cap for a 2000 blazer for $3 ( at chevy dear it as $10 and a corvette cap was $22) all the same cap. Drilled a hole in the top of the cap and made an attachemt though that new cap to the pressure bleeder hose. actully my attachment was an three way valve so I can let the excess air pressure out when I am down bleeding calipers. So brake fluid does not splash.

That way it is a perfect fit.

Most places can ship them out over night or two day

Rob's 73

Does it really elminate the need for a Tech II to open the ABS?

FWIW: I bought the cheap cap from Advance Auto and tapped in a air fitting and use my air compressor. I attached my leak down tester so that I can regulate the air pressure better.

AU N EGL

YES. I have never used at Tech II, heck I dont think I have ever seen one.

The pressure opens the ABS when you push the fluid though.

NoOne

That would make sense. ABS units when not energized the poppets just flop around, at least on the systems we use at work, so a little pressure should make it work.

I'm hoping NAPA or someone else stocks it, have some spare time today and would like to get it done. I stayed away from power bleeders after a bad experience with Mitivac's but you give this good reviews so I'll give it a shot.

One last question...whats the shelf life of ATE Superblue?

I believe I have a can unopened from early last summer but should I pitch the open can even though its sealed?

I am thinking of switching to Castrol SRF, more money up front but cheaper over time correct?

John Shiels

Cheaper per mile but more importantly safer per mile also.

Remember compare equal quantities like per oz not per container and it's no that bad.

TrueBlueCoupe

Your unopened super blue is good to go. I bought my Motive bleeder online and just did a search and found the cheapest place. Racer Supply Warehouse was the best when I bought mine.

Bill Dearborn

I am not sure we know that it eliminates the need for the Tech II. If you read the GM procedures for pressure bleeding they state the following:

"Important
If it is determined that air was induced into the system upstream of the ABS modulator prior to servicing, the ABS Automated Bleed Procedure must be performed."

I would say this is pretty clear indication that GM does not believe pressure bleeding bleeds the ABS unit.

The pressure bleeder they use is a better unit than the Motive and they apply 25 and 30 lbs of pressure. If you put that much pressure on the Motive unit brake fluid leaks around the cap.

Bill

VetteDrmr

I did mine a bit differently: I went to AutoZone, got a cap & rubber gasket, drilled a hole in the center and put an air fitting on it. Then I took a pressure regulator I had laying around and made up a hose section that I connect to my air compressor at home.

Pressurize up to 15-18 psi and go to work, just like everyone else stated above. Only difference is the system is much more compact (although it does need an air source; how many of us don't have one of those? ).

Have a good one,
Mike

NoOne

I had a ton of ABS problems with my car. We bled and bled and bled.

Only the Tech II bleed took care of the problem.

Granted its not the easiest solution for everyone but if you've done it once its a breeze, takes hardly anytime at all.

AU N EGL recommended bleeding the car twice for switching to SRF. I'll bleed it once, do some ABS stops and bleed it all over again just to make sure I have it clean.

I ended up building my own pressure bleeder. I had a spare tire pressure gauge, some epoxy, and hose. I bought a garden sprayer and spare cap.

I thought of using the air compressor but did not want to introduce water to the system even with the water filter I have I didn't trust it.

injuner

The do-it yourself way to bleed the abs is to fully bleed the system, go engage the ABS mulitple times and then rebleed the system. I have used wet or poor roads to do my abs stops as well as one trip on wet grass..

VetteDrmr

I thought about that as well, but you aren't introducing air into the system, and with the normal dryer, plus no air flow out the hose to chill the air down to the dew point, I couldn't see how the air coming out of the hose would have any more significant amount of water vapor than in a hand pumped tank.

BUT, any of these ways work; I was just pointing out that you don't have to go buy a Motive system.

Have a good one,
Mike

Bill Dearborn

That may work when trying to get old fluid out of the unit. But if you have introduced air into the system ahead of the ABS unit there may be air in the unit and it may not be possible to get enough brake pressure to activate the ABS.

Bill

NoOne

Mike,

Actually you build up a decent amount of water in your air compressor.

I put in a water trap yesterday and there was quite a bit.

Water settles at the bottom and is blown out with the air. If you have a bottom drain valve crack it open and see what comes out.

VetteDrmr

My compressor tank has the drain on the bottom and the air port about 3/4 to the top. Sure, I get water out of the drain (nasty stuff, too!), but remember that you're not flowing any air to speak of, just pressurizing the MC.

Think of it this way: how much water do you get in your trap by pressurizing a hose?

Have a good one,
Mike

Wicked Weasel

Thanks Guys - just ordered one of these. Figure it is time to start doing more of my own stuff so that I am better prepared for each event.