Best Cam for 02Z06 for Road Race Use
#1
Burning Brakes
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Best Cam for 02Z06 for Road Race Use
I know there are some cams out there that can get you some large hp numbers and good mph on the drag strip, but that's not really what I'm wanting. I'm looking for a cam that can boost my powerband from 3K-6K or so to help getting out of corners. Basically I'm looking for a good increase on the area under the curve... Currently the car has LG Longtubes, and a Blackwing on it. Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks guys!
#2
Melting Slicks
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The one in there is pretty good. The right brakes and tires will get you around the track faster than any cam change will IMHO.
Last edited by frank dupuy; 06-21-2006 at 07:44 PM.
#4
Team Owner
Who would know better than LG some guys here bought the GX3 and made good power and run track events. 95 Jersey is one
#5
Safety Car
Originally Posted by frank dupuy
The one in there is pretty good. The right brakes and tires will get you around the track faster than any cam change will IMHO.
#6
Melting Slicks
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It kind of depends on if you are going to just put in a cam or if your doing heads as well. Both John and I responded to this tread over at LS1Tech.com toward the end of the tread.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...oad+Racing+Cam
There are too many cams to choose from, but this will give you a little more info into what you should be looking for.
Personally I would look at either the Futral F13, or theLingenfelter GT-11, but that's just me. I would stay away from the "fast ramp" Comp lobes such as the G5x3 and most new cams, there are some people who really like them, but I personally would go with a cam that has more "traditional" lobes and is a little easier on valve springs.
That said if/when I get my C5 I would install a set of the GM Perf Parts LS6 CNC's heads a LPE GT-11 and go look for some Vipers!
I set up a customer with those heads and a LPE GT-1 cam that made 431 rwhp and 390 rwtq, his torque doesn't come on until 4k but it makes 350 rwtq from 4k to 6500. That car hauls *** around Road America, which it was made for. But for more low end tq I would look at the GT-11.
I know the above tread is a long read but there is some good info in there.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...oad+Racing+Cam
There are too many cams to choose from, but this will give you a little more info into what you should be looking for.
Personally I would look at either the Futral F13, or theLingenfelter GT-11, but that's just me. I would stay away from the "fast ramp" Comp lobes such as the G5x3 and most new cams, there are some people who really like them, but I personally would go with a cam that has more "traditional" lobes and is a little easier on valve springs.
That said if/when I get my C5 I would install a set of the GM Perf Parts LS6 CNC's heads a LPE GT-11 and go look for some Vipers!
I set up a customer with those heads and a LPE GT-1 cam that made 431 rwhp and 390 rwtq, his torque doesn't come on until 4k but it makes 350 rwtq from 4k to 6500. That car hauls *** around Road America, which it was made for. But for more low end tq I would look at the GT-11.
I know the above tread is a long read but there is some good info in there.
#7
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I've got a set of Hoosiers and some race pads for the car, so I've got that side covered. I don't plan on doing heads to the car, just a cam over what I have currently.
I'm wanting to add a little bit more power to the car, but I want to make sure that I pick a cam that will not hurt the performance of the car on track.
I'll check out that link on LS1 tech. The only reason this question was brought up is a read a post on LS1Tech by AU N GEL saying that he had driven 3 Z06's, with larger cams, on track and that they felt like they were lacking power coming out of the turns.
I'm wanting to add a little bit more power to the car, but I want to make sure that I pick a cam that will not hurt the performance of the car on track.
I'll check out that link on LS1 tech. The only reason this question was brought up is a read a post on LS1Tech by AU N GEL saying that he had driven 3 Z06's, with larger cams, on track and that they felt like they were lacking power coming out of the turns.
#8
Safety Car
The better your car is setup, the earlier you can get on the gas out of the turns. The better your brakes are the later you can stay on the gas before a turn.
I know you are not talking about doing a full HC package, but I would rather spend $7k on a AP racing brake setup then the HC setup.
I know you are not talking about doing a full HC package, but I would rather spend $7k on a AP racing brake setup then the HC setup.
#9
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Originally Posted by tchapma1
I've got a set of Hoosiers and some race pads for the car, so I've got that side covered. I don't plan on doing heads to the car, just a cam over what I have currently.
I'm wanting to add a little bit more power to the car, but I want to make sure that I pick a cam that will not hurt the performance of the car on track.
I'll check out that link on LS1 tech. The only reason this question was brought up is a read a post on LS1Tech by AU N GEL saying that he had driven 3 Z06's, with larger cams, on track and that they felt like they were lacking power coming out of the turns.
I'm wanting to add a little bit more power to the car, but I want to make sure that I pick a cam that will not hurt the performance of the car on track.
I'll check out that link on LS1 tech. The only reason this question was brought up is a read a post on LS1Tech by AU N GEL saying that he had driven 3 Z06's, with larger cams, on track and that they felt like they were lacking power coming out of the turns.
Yup. Driven 4 or 5 LG cammed cars now, unless you stay above 4000 rpms all the time the cams had no guts down low. Maybe just a different driving style, but corvettes have tons of low end torque, so use a cam desigend for that. Plus the LSx heads and Intake are desigend tor max tq at 4800 and max hp at 6300. any cam that does not aligne with those two numbers is wasted.
The cam in the C5Z is great. A good dyno tune is worth evey $ it costs.
Personally, dont do a cam unless you are doing heads too and or are currently doing T1 speeds in your stock Z. If your not doing T1 speeds theny driving skill and seat time is better money spent.
Last edited by AU N EGL; 06-22-2006 at 06:50 AM.
#10
Team Owner
5 years ago I had LTH and a cam and there was a big difference. Better cams now you should dyno over 400 and have useable power. Run the car near 3,000 and you are dead with any cam. Get good springs like the 921 comp.
#11
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Get good springs like the 921 comp.
DEFINATLY get some good valve springs, I know the Comp 921 kit is expensive (over $600) but think of how expensive a dropped valve would be.
When you deal with a track such as Road America cammed or head and cam cars rule the track, nothing is more of a pain in my a$$ than closing up on a guy through the back part of the track and watching all the distace gained disappear down 2 long straits.
(Note to self: Must by C5 next year)
#12
Team Owner
[QUOTE=96CollectorSport]
DEFINATLY get some good valve springs, I know the Comp 921 kit is expensive (over $600) but think of how expensive a dropped valve would be.
QUOTE]
I know it was near 1900 bucks and it was a slightly bent valve. They charged me 599 for the springs which was fair. The Vette Doctors had to pull the head and put in a new valve. Manely springs in there didn't have 1000 miles on them. Before that I changed them at 1500 all track miles. Lucky I didn't lunch bag the motor.
DEFINATLY get some good valve springs, I know the Comp 921 kit is expensive (over $600) but think of how expensive a dropped valve would be.
QUOTE]
I know it was near 1900 bucks and it was a slightly bent valve. They charged me 599 for the springs which was fair. The Vette Doctors had to pull the head and put in a new valve. Manely springs in there didn't have 1000 miles on them. Before that I changed them at 1500 all track miles. Lucky I didn't lunch bag the motor.
#13
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I run a G5-X3 in my car with double springs, and all the hardware to handle it. A buddy of mine runs one two. We have had really good luck with them. I am constantly getting comments about my exit speed from turns and the cars ability to run down much more powerful cars. I think a lot of it has to do with the powerband of the cam. I love it. LG develops his cams based on real roadracing experience, not some computer simulations or drag racing info. I would talk to him. I believe he has already made some additional refinments to the G5-X3. Good luck.
Any reputable cam will really wak up your car.
Here is a video of my buddy's yellow Z-o6 and my blue FRC with the G5-X3 cam at a little autocross.
http://www.dropshots.com/day.php?use...8&ctime=114103
Any reputable cam will really wak up your car.
Here is a video of my buddy's yellow Z-o6 and my blue FRC with the G5-X3 cam at a little autocross.
http://www.dropshots.com/day.php?use...8&ctime=114103
#15
While not the same venue, when I autocross with my G5X3/112lsa - it starts pulling very hard from 2-3K. My converter only flashes to 2700rpm, and 3-5k goes by very fast (and with lots of wheelspin if I'm not careful) in my 83mph 2nd gear.
The G5X2 cams are known to be hard hitting down low cams on all the LS1 boards. The X3 can come in just as hard, but revs out higher (I go to 7300). If you talk to LG, you'll find that he prefers torquey low ends, and has developed cams to satisfy those, as well as the peak hp dyno racers.
Just my experience, much depends on the tuning, heads, intake, exhaust etc.
The G5X2 cams are known to be hard hitting down low cams on all the LS1 boards. The X3 can come in just as hard, but revs out higher (I go to 7300). If you talk to LG, you'll find that he prefers torquey low ends, and has developed cams to satisfy those, as well as the peak hp dyno racers.
Just my experience, much depends on the tuning, heads, intake, exhaust etc.
#16
Go with ported heads instead.
Will give you both torque and hp and should get you to the 410 range or so at least I would guess.
My cam car makes 430rwhp but it is pretty rough and wild and at some tracks is now to peaky and I am in between gears due to lose of torque.
If I was to start over that is what I would do without a 2nd thought.
Will give you both torque and hp and should get you to the 410 range or so at least I would guess.
My cam car makes 430rwhp but it is pretty rough and wild and at some tracks is now to peaky and I am in between gears due to lose of torque.
If I was to start over that is what I would do without a 2nd thought.
#17
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G5X-3 without a doubt. I ran it in my own track car for so many track days, I lost count.
We only use Comp 921 springs, and it is exactly what you would want for a road racing cam.
Of course, you will want to improve your chassis, and the whole package but you have to start somewhere.
Work on your whole package to make the entire car better, but don't do intermediate changes that you will want to upgrade later. Put the best parts on the first time, and you won't need to "Upgrade" later.
Experimenting with different springs, shocks, swaybars is fun, but you might spend money where you don't need to if you hit the set up wrong.
Feel free to call us any time to discuss your package and we will help you in any way we can.
The main thing is to have fun out there. And a low performing car either in the chassis or the engine is not as much fun.
Do it in stages, and pick your mods well. There is NO MAGIC BULLET! work on every fascet of your car, and driver for the most fun.
LG
We only use Comp 921 springs, and it is exactly what you would want for a road racing cam.
Of course, you will want to improve your chassis, and the whole package but you have to start somewhere.
Work on your whole package to make the entire car better, but don't do intermediate changes that you will want to upgrade later. Put the best parts on the first time, and you won't need to "Upgrade" later.
Experimenting with different springs, shocks, swaybars is fun, but you might spend money where you don't need to if you hit the set up wrong.
Feel free to call us any time to discuss your package and we will help you in any way we can.
The main thing is to have fun out there. And a low performing car either in the chassis or the engine is not as much fun.
Do it in stages, and pick your mods well. There is NO MAGIC BULLET! work on every fascet of your car, and driver for the most fun.
LG
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LG Pro LT Headers, MOST HP, MOST TORQUE
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#18
Supporting Tuner
I use a custom grind that is between a G5X2 and a G5X3 and it has a lot of power down low, and from 3000rpm, hang on!!
#19
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by John Shiels
Who would know better than LG some guys here bought the GX3 and made good power and run track events. 95 Jersey is one
At the SCCA event at Pocono, I came out of Devil's elbow making a right onto the tunnel turn behind a Viper in 3rd gear. This guy had exhaust and intake mods and it's easy to say he probably had around 475hp and torque. I usually take that turn in 2nd, then upshift to 3rd, and usually, unless I was carrying serious momentum and on his @ss, I would have no hope of passing him on the strait. We'll I came behind him stayed in 3rd gear, pulled out of the 45mph turn at around 3000rpm, to pull up along side him and pass him with 2 car lengths before we entered the the turn one chicane.
I WAS AMAZED!!! My car is 100% stock motor except cam. I would be the first to tell you if something was junk. It was a great feeling. Not only was I fast in the turns and under braking, but I could out accelerate a Viper...GET THAT DAMN CAM!!