Broken Rear Spring Fixed - Pics of damaged spring/Pad condition
07-10-2006, 01:42 PM
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Broken Rear Spring Fixed - Pics of damaged spring/Pad condition
Thanks to Freefall for shipping me his "used" Z06 spring. I say used like that because the thing looked brand new and was in fantastic condition.
I got the car off of the trailer last night which went smoother than we expected and today I disassembled everything to inspect. Except I got the Service Column Lock because the battery was dead and the column locked up tight, today I get the service message but no lock, have to look into that later.
The spring swap was a breeze for the most part. Took about 15 minutes with air tools but putting the new spring in correctly was a bit tougher. Those little nubs on the bracket is hard to line up. I'm not a big fan of working under the car jacking things around to get them to line up just sitting on jackstands and my 5 degree angle in my garage. I put it in and got it lined up as best I could but feel it could fit a bit better. Taking it upto the corner shop at 6 to use their lift to loosen the bracket a bit, make sure its in the right position and tighten it back up.
Still a 30 minute or less job and just another reason to tell the wife why I needed a hoist.
Here is the broken spring:
The front suspension boots thankfully all were not damaged but the boots on the calipers were fried.
I kind of test fit the CTS-V caliper while I had it all apart and do believe now it will fit so I'm more motivated to get that done if not I'll go with LG's setup in the spring.
There is no point in me replacing the calipers with another set of OEM's with only 2 days left at the track even if they are spread. This year its brakes or a hoist and I'll take the hoist and worry about brakes before next years first event.
Put the new rotors on since I had cracked both down through the veins.
The H pads were in fantastic condition. There was a hint of taper but compared to the J's and Z06 pads I bet you could get a good 2-3 events out of these flipping them. I was very happy with their wear characteristics and how well they worked.
I put my Z06 pads back on for the street but they were in sad shape. I'll order some PFC's from VBP and a rebuild kit to replace the boots and should be good to go.
Question is, with the bad boot, is it ok to drive it? I want to drive the car and will probably put about 500 miles on it before the parts come in and I get it fixed.
Also going to get heat wrap for all the rubber boots, I think I got lucky this time around not damaging anything else.
Not too bad overall
I never am too stressed out over breaking stuff at the track, learn quite a bit in the process and its always nice when you can fix the stuff yourself.
I got the car off of the trailer last night which went smoother than we expected and today I disassembled everything to inspect. Except I got the Service Column Lock because the battery was dead and the column locked up tight, today I get the service message but no lock, have to look into that later.
The spring swap was a breeze for the most part. Took about 15 minutes with air tools but putting the new spring in correctly was a bit tougher. Those little nubs on the bracket is hard to line up. I'm not a big fan of working under the car jacking things around to get them to line up just sitting on jackstands and my 5 degree angle in my garage. I put it in and got it lined up as best I could but feel it could fit a bit better. Taking it upto the corner shop at 6 to use their lift to loosen the bracket a bit, make sure its in the right position and tighten it back up.
Still a 30 minute or less job and just another reason to tell the wife why I needed a hoist.
Here is the broken spring:
The front suspension boots thankfully all were not damaged but the boots on the calipers were fried.
I kind of test fit the CTS-V caliper while I had it all apart and do believe now it will fit so I'm more motivated to get that done if not I'll go with LG's setup in the spring.
There is no point in me replacing the calipers with another set of OEM's with only 2 days left at the track even if they are spread. This year its brakes or a hoist and I'll take the hoist and worry about brakes before next years first event.
Put the new rotors on since I had cracked both down through the veins.
The H pads were in fantastic condition. There was a hint of taper but compared to the J's and Z06 pads I bet you could get a good 2-3 events out of these flipping them. I was very happy with their wear characteristics and how well they worked.
I put my Z06 pads back on for the street but they were in sad shape. I'll order some PFC's from VBP and a rebuild kit to replace the boots and should be good to go.
Question is, with the bad boot, is it ok to drive it? I want to drive the car and will probably put about 500 miles on it before the parts come in and I get it fixed.
Also going to get heat wrap for all the rubber boots, I think I got lucky this time around not damaging anything else.
Not too bad overall
I never am too stressed out over breaking stuff at the track, learn quite a bit in the process and its always nice when you can fix the stuff yourself.
Last edited by NoOne; 07-10-2006 at 01:45 PM.
07-10-2006, 02:39 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
Aww c'mon man, wrap some duct tape around that thing real tight and it's perfect! 
Glad you saw that after a run and didn't find out 'during' if you know what I mean.
If you mean the dust boot on the caliper screw it, not needed and it will be fine without. Biggest concern is getting too much brake dust in there, but just clean the caliper good around the rim if you are going to push it back in a bit. If you aren't, you're good to go (especially since you say you are replacing them anyway).
If you mean the tie-rod boot is melted, I'd replace it (the end). Either way, definitely header wrap the tie-rod end. It's easy, cheap and really does work. Those things are millimeters from the rotor surface and can fry!
Glad you saw that after a run and didn't find out 'during' if you know what I mean.
If you mean the dust boot on the caliper screw it, not needed and it will be fine without. Biggest concern is getting too much brake dust in there, but just clean the caliper good around the rim if you are going to push it back in a bit. If you aren't, you're good to go (especially since you say you are replacing them anyway).
If you mean the tie-rod boot is melted, I'd replace it (the end). Either way, definitely header wrap the tie-rod end. It's easy, cheap and really does work. Those things are millimeters from the rotor surface and can fry!
Last edited by yellow01; 07-10-2006 at 02:41 PM.
07-10-2006, 07:29 PM
#4
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Just got back...we set the ride height but its way too high still. Should have known when I backed off the ramps without wood.
Boy its a handleful in 4x4 mode
I'll lower it a bit more tommorow but everything was solid and I just doublechecked my work on the hoist.
Boy its a handleful in 4x4 mode
I'll lower it a bit more tommorow but everything was solid and I just doublechecked my work on the hoist.
07-11-2006, 02:24 AM
#5
Le Mans Master
Is your first picture a shot of the spring bottom and the
second a shot of the top?
The top photo appears to show marks of various kinds:
scrape (delam?), impact or jacking and a mini rubber tire
are three types I imagine I see.
In the initial thread about the break, the opinion at the
end of the thread weighed in favour of heat from the open
exhaust cut-outs up stream. Any further thoughts about
the cause?
.
second a shot of the top?
The top photo appears to show marks of various kinds:
scrape (delam?), impact or jacking and a mini rubber tire
are three types I imagine I see.
In the initial thread about the break, the opinion at the
end of the thread weighed in favour of heat from the open
exhaust cut-outs up stream. Any further thoughts about
the cause?
.
07-11-2006, 06:54 AM
#6
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Those shots are all the same view. It was propped up against the wall and I just took 2 from above and one at eye level.
Heat for sure was the issue or but if there was some kind of impact that would not normally have broken it but because of the heat it was weakened although there are no witness marks to show anything has hit the spring.
The break happened directly inline with the exhaust cutout, you could take a ruler from the centerline of the opening right to the spring itself.
I'll take some more detailed shots tonight when I get home.
Heat for sure was the issue or but if there was some kind of impact that would not normally have broken it but because of the heat it was weakened although there are no witness marks to show anything has hit the spring.
The break happened directly inline with the exhaust cutout, you could take a ruler from the centerline of the opening right to the spring itself.
I'll take some more detailed shots tonight when I get home.
