Changing pads without changing rotors
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Changing pads without changing rotors
Not sure what pads are on the car now (98 vert), installing Hawk HPS's, stock rotors but no warpage. Should I change em? turn em? or just clean em?
#3
Le Mans Master
By the book they should be turned or new rotors should be installed at the same time. That being said, the problem is these days are that most rotors don't have much meat on them and some can barely take a spin on the lathe without ending up under spec.
Personally if you have no issues I would just install the new pads and be done with it.
Ok, flame suit on!
Personally if you have no issues I would just install the new pads and be done with it.
Ok, flame suit on!
Last edited by Miaugi; 07-19-2006 at 10:31 PM.
#4
Le Mans Master
HPS are street pads. Just swap 'em out and break 'em in. If you want to, season them after a few hundred miles.
If you're thinking about running them autocrossing or DEs on the track, I heartily advise getting some HP Plus pads or PFC Z-rated pads at least.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
If you're thinking about running them autocrossing or DEs on the track, I heartily advise getting some HP Plus pads or PFC Z-rated pads at least.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
#5
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by VetteDrmr
HPS are street pads. Just swap 'em out and break 'em in. If you want to, season them after a few hundred miles.
If you're thinking about running them autocrossing or DEs on the track, I heartily advise getting some HP Plus pads or PFC Z-rated pads at least.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
If you're thinking about running them autocrossing or DEs on the track, I heartily advise getting some HP Plus pads or PFC Z-rated pads at least.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
#6
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Originally Posted by vetteman9368
Not sure what pads are on the car now (98 vert), installing Hawk HPS's, stock rotors but no warpage. Should I change em? turn em? or just clean em?
Since it sounds like you are installing a different brand with a different brake compound you would get a quicker break in if the rotors were turned and the old pad deposits removed from the rotor. If it is cheaper to replace the rotors you could choose that option also.
Bill
#7
I would just bed the new pads into the old rotors. I wouldn't recommend turning the rotors. If anything, I've seen guys scuff the rotor surface, but I'm not sure that's a great idea either. I've heard of residue from sandpaper or whatever you're using getting on the rotors and causing issues.
Again, I'd just do a break in procedure with the new pads. It usually requires several stops from various speeds followed by not using your brakes if you can at all help it and then let the brakes fully cool.
Again, I'd just do a break in procedure with the new pads. It usually requires several stops from various speeds followed by not using your brakes if you can at all help it and then let the brakes fully cool.
#8
^good point, it's probably cheaper to buy new rotors at NAPA than have them cleaned up...can you even turn our rotors? I've never looked into it, as they are usually cooked pretty good before I would swap and cheap to replace.
Usually, if you go from a pure street pad to a semi race or race pad, the new pad will remove the old transfer layer of pad material and bed in fine...but, like Bill said, there is the risk that the old transfer film will not get scraped and you'll end up with uneven pad transfer, shudders, squeals and all that good stuff!
Usually, if you go from a pure street pad to a semi race or race pad, the new pad will remove the old transfer layer of pad material and bed in fine...but, like Bill said, there is the risk that the old transfer film will not get scraped and you'll end up with uneven pad transfer, shudders, squeals and all that good stuff!
#9
Originally Posted by tigerdrvr
^good point, it's probably cheaper to buy new rotors at NAPA than have them cleaned up...can you even turn our rotors? I've never looked into it, as they are usually cooked pretty good before I would swap and cheap to replace.
Usually, if you go from a pure street pad to a semi race or race pad, the new pad will remove the old transfer layer of pad material and bed in fine...but, like Bill said, there is the risk that the old transfer film will not get scraped and you'll end up with uneven pad transfer, shudders, squeals and all that good stuff!
Usually, if you go from a pure street pad to a semi race or race pad, the new pad will remove the old transfer layer of pad material and bed in fine...but, like Bill said, there is the risk that the old transfer film will not get scraped and you'll end up with uneven pad transfer, shudders, squeals and all that good stuff!
#10
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You'll know if they are the HP+ after you install them, if they squeak like hell after you get them broke in they are the HP+. IMO,great for autocross but not the best idea for street use unless you like your car to sound like a garbage truck coming to a stop.
#11
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Originally Posted by C6400hp
You'll know if they are the HP+ after you install them, if they squeak like hell after you get them broke in they are the HP+. IMO,great for autocross but not the best idea for street use unless you like your car to sound like a garbage truck coming to a stop.
Since changing pads and rotors is pretty easy I decided to have dedicated race pads/rotors and street pad/rotors. The street pad/rotor combination should last a long time while the racing pads will eat through the rotors in a few sessions on the track.
#12
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by vetteman9368
maybe they are HP+, they are teh street/auto-x pads
If, after you run the Hawk pads you don't like the dust (which they do a lot!), try the PFC Z-rated pads. I've been running those and they're just an outstanding pad for a street/autox combo. My DE experience with them has been good, but I rarely push hard at a DE, just 70-80%.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
#14
Race Director
Originally Posted by wtknght1
Just bolt the new pads on and bed them in. You won't have any issues.
We swap out Zo6 pads and reg pads a lot with stock/NAPA rotors..........after each swap we bed them in and they are
#15
I doubt if you will have any issues.
If you do have issues it will go like this: Horrible vibes and chatter initially with the new pads. You can drive through this window and settle things down but a lot of folks don't like it when an incompatibility occurs.
On the race car we almost always try to mate new rotors with a new pad type (old rotors with new pads of the same type, btw) unless we run out of funds ($) and then we just let them misbehave for a lap or two...
If you do have issues it will go like this: Horrible vibes and chatter initially with the new pads. You can drive through this window and settle things down but a lot of folks don't like it when an incompatibility occurs.
On the race car we almost always try to mate new rotors with a new pad type (old rotors with new pads of the same type, btw) unless we run out of funds ($) and then we just let them misbehave for a lap or two...
#17
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Originally Posted by wtknght1
Just bolt the new pads on and bed them in. You won't have any issues.
#18
Drifting
Originally Posted by VetteDrmr
At the most I'd get one of those 3M rotational abrasive brushes and put a non-directional pattern on the rotors. My experience has been that it makes little difference if I do it or not.
If, after you run the Hawk pads you don't like the dust (which they do a lot!), try the PFC Z-rated pads. I've been running those and they're just an outstanding pad for a street/autox combo. My DE experience with them has been good, but I rarely push hard at a DE, just 70-80%.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
If, after you run the Hawk pads you don't like the dust (which they do a lot!), try the PFC Z-rated pads. I've been running those and they're just an outstanding pad for a street/autox combo. My DE experience with them has been good, but I rarely push hard at a DE, just 70-80%.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
For street use you can get ebay zinc coated rotors for around $200 so it's probably a good idea to just replace them when you get new pads.
If you're going to the track, either get the Napa rotors and replace them every time, or spend the big bucks for high quality brakes.
I'm cheap so I have the zinc coated rotors for the street(no rust) and Napa rotors for the track.
Dog