Autocrossing & Roadracing Suspension Setup for Track Corvettes, Camber/Caster Adjustments, R-Compound Tires, Race Slicks, Tips on Driving Technique, Events, Results
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Changing pads without changing rotors

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-19-2006, 09:46 PM
  #1  
vetteman9368
Team Owner
Thread Starter
 
vetteman9368's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: I have no tolerence for liberals and fools, but sometimes i repeat myself
Posts: 27,897
Received 8 Likes on 7 Posts
CI 3-5-7-8-9 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08

Default Changing pads without changing rotors

Not sure what pads are on the car now (98 vert), installing Hawk HPS's, stock rotors but no warpage. Should I change em? turn em? or just clean em?
Old 07-19-2006, 10:25 PM
  #2  
WNeal
Team Owner
Support Corvetteforum!
 
WNeal's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2005
Location: Cincinnati Ohio
Posts: 21,532
Received 10 Likes on 2 Posts
Cruise-In Veteran VII
Cruise-In Veteran VIII
"Slower Azz Dog"
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09

Default

I have no idea but your avatar gives me a woody
Old 07-19-2006, 10:28 PM
  #3  
Miaugi
Le Mans Master
 
Miaugi's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2002
Location: Montreal Qc
Posts: 7,588
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

By the book they should be turned or new rotors should be installed at the same time. That being said, the problem is these days are that most rotors don't have much meat on them and some can barely take a spin on the lathe without ending up under spec.

Personally if you have no issues I would just install the new pads and be done with it.

Ok, flame suit on!

Last edited by Miaugi; 07-19-2006 at 10:31 PM.
Old 07-19-2006, 10:39 PM
  #4  
VetteDrmr
Le Mans Master
 
VetteDrmr's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: Hot Springs AR
Posts: 9,509
Received 1,396 Likes on 748 Posts

Default

HPS are street pads. Just swap 'em out and break 'em in. If you want to, season them after a few hundred miles.

If you're thinking about running them autocrossing or DEs on the track, I heartily advise getting some HP Plus pads or PFC Z-rated pads at least.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Old 07-19-2006, 10:44 PM
  #5  
vetteman9368
Team Owner
Thread Starter
 
vetteman9368's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: I have no tolerence for liberals and fools, but sometimes i repeat myself
Posts: 27,897
Received 8 Likes on 7 Posts
CI 3-5-7-8-9 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08

Default

Originally Posted by VetteDrmr
HPS are street pads. Just swap 'em out and break 'em in. If you want to, season them after a few hundred miles.

If you're thinking about running them autocrossing or DEs on the track, I heartily advise getting some HP Plus pads or PFC Z-rated pads at least.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
maybe they are HP+, they are teh street/auto-x pads
Old 07-20-2006, 12:31 AM
  #6  
Bill Dearborn
Tech Contributor
 
Bill Dearborn's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,089
Received 8,928 Likes on 5,333 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by vetteman9368
Not sure what pads are on the car now (98 vert), installing Hawk HPS's, stock rotors but no warpage. Should I change em? turn em? or just clean em?
If you are installing the same pads as being removed there is no need to turn the rotors if they are not damaged (scored, etc). GM does not recommend doing anything with the rotors during a pad change as long as the rotors are not damaged.

Since it sounds like you are installing a different brand with a different brake compound you would get a quicker break in if the rotors were turned and the old pad deposits removed from the rotor. If it is cheaper to replace the rotors you could choose that option also.

Bill
Old 07-20-2006, 12:49 AM
  #7  
xsiveone
Le Mans Master
 
xsiveone's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,661
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I would just bed the new pads into the old rotors. I wouldn't recommend turning the rotors. If anything, I've seen guys scuff the rotor surface, but I'm not sure that's a great idea either. I've heard of residue from sandpaper or whatever you're using getting on the rotors and causing issues.

Again, I'd just do a break in procedure with the new pads. It usually requires several stops from various speeds followed by not using your brakes if you can at all help it and then let the brakes fully cool.
Old 07-20-2006, 12:50 AM
  #8  
tigerdrvr
Pro
 
tigerdrvr's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2004
Location: Alamo CA
Posts: 646
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

^good point, it's probably cheaper to buy new rotors at NAPA than have them cleaned up...can you even turn our rotors? I've never looked into it, as they are usually cooked pretty good before I would swap and cheap to replace.

Usually, if you go from a pure street pad to a semi race or race pad, the new pad will remove the old transfer layer of pad material and bed in fine...but, like Bill said, there is the risk that the old transfer film will not get scraped and you'll end up with uneven pad transfer, shudders, squeals and all that good stuff!
Old 07-20-2006, 01:07 AM
  #9  
xsiveone
Le Mans Master
 
xsiveone's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,661
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by tigerdrvr
^good point, it's probably cheaper to buy new rotors at NAPA than have them cleaned up...can you even turn our rotors? I've never looked into it, as they are usually cooked pretty good before I would swap and cheap to replace.

Usually, if you go from a pure street pad to a semi race or race pad, the new pad will remove the old transfer layer of pad material and bed in fine...but, like Bill said, there is the risk that the old transfer film will not get scraped and you'll end up with uneven pad transfer, shudders, squeals and all that good stuff!
Ideally, you'll want to have a seperate set of rotors for your pads, but in this case, I'm pretty certain that he won't have any issues by just swapping pads and doing a break in procedure.
Old 07-20-2006, 01:09 AM
  #10  
C6400hp
Safety Car
 
C6400hp's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: DFW This user does not support or recommend the product or service displayed in the ad to the right
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

You'll know if they are the HP+ after you install them, if they squeak like hell after you get them broke in they are the HP+. IMO,great for autocross but not the best idea for street use unless you like your car to sound like a garbage truck coming to a stop.
Old 07-20-2006, 08:14 AM
  #11  
Wicked Weasel
Team Owner
 
Wicked Weasel's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 24,652
Received 297 Likes on 94 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05-'08

Default

Originally Posted by C6400hp
You'll know if they are the HP+ after you install them, if they squeak like hell after you get them broke in they are the HP+. IMO,great for autocross but not the best idea for street use unless you like your car to sound like a garbage truck coming to a stop.
they do make noise and they do dust, but after running race pads it is so hard to go back to something that is really less aggressive.


Since changing pads and rotors is pretty easy I decided to have dedicated race pads/rotors and street pad/rotors. The street pad/rotor combination should last a long time while the racing pads will eat through the rotors in a few sessions on the track.
Old 07-20-2006, 08:37 AM
  #12  
VetteDrmr
Le Mans Master
 
VetteDrmr's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: Hot Springs AR
Posts: 9,509
Received 1,396 Likes on 748 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by vetteman9368
maybe they are HP+, they are teh street/auto-x pads
At the most I'd get one of those 3M rotational abrasive brushes and put a non-directional pattern on the rotors. My experience has been that it makes little difference if I do it or not.

If, after you run the Hawk pads you don't like the dust (which they do a lot!), try the PFC Z-rated pads. I've been running those and they're just an outstanding pad for a street/autox combo. My DE experience with them has been good, but I rarely push hard at a DE, just 70-80%.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Old 07-20-2006, 10:11 AM
  #13  
wtknght1
Melting Slicks
 
wtknght1's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2001
Location: Ooltewah TN
Posts: 2,243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Just bolt the new pads on and bed them in. You won't have any issues.
Old 07-20-2006, 11:46 AM
  #14  
Allthrottleandsomebottle
Race Director
Support Corvetteforum!
 
Allthrottleandsomebottle's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Lackey, my own dragstrip VA.
Posts: 16,928
Received 26 Likes on 13 Posts
Virginia Events Coordinator
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
NCM Ambassador

Default

Originally Posted by wtknght1
Just bolt the new pads on and bed them in. You won't have any issues.

We swap out Zo6 pads and reg pads a lot with stock/NAPA rotors..........after each swap we bed them in and they are
Old 07-20-2006, 02:15 PM
  #15  
HalM
Racer
 
HalM's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: Sunnyvale CA
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I doubt if you will have any issues.

If you do have issues it will go like this: Horrible vibes and chatter initially with the new pads. You can drive through this window and settle things down but a lot of folks don't like it when an incompatibility occurs.

On the race car we almost always try to mate new rotors with a new pad type (old rotors with new pads of the same type, btw) unless we run out of funds ($) and then we just let them misbehave for a lap or two...
Old 07-20-2006, 07:13 PM
  #16  
Jason
Team Owner
 
Jason's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 1999
Location: Miami bound
Posts: 71,447
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
CI 4-5-6-7 Veteran

Default

Originally Posted by wtknght1
Just bolt the new pads on and bed them in. You won't have any issues.
That's what I'd do.
Old 07-20-2006, 10:52 PM
  #17  
Armycop
Drifting
 
Armycop's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: in ur mirror, 'bout to pass.. CA
Posts: 1,770
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by wtknght1
Just bolt the new pads on and bed them in. You won't have any issues.
Ditto. Been there, doing that now, HP+'s with OEM rotors. Just make sure you bed them in, or they'll howl like a scalded cat.
Old 07-21-2006, 02:08 AM
  #18  
meldog21
Drifting
 
meldog21's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Milpitas CA
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by VetteDrmr
At the most I'd get one of those 3M rotational abrasive brushes and put a non-directional pattern on the rotors. My experience has been that it makes little difference if I do it or not.

If, after you run the Hawk pads you don't like the dust (which they do a lot!), try the PFC Z-rated pads. I've been running those and they're just an outstanding pad for a street/autox combo. My DE experience with them has been good, but I rarely push hard at a DE, just 70-80%.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
I've always put my motorcycle rotors on a lathe and done a non-directional surface with a scotchbrite rotary pad. This evens the surface to remove any grooves, and hopefully removes the chemical residue from different brand pads, if changed. The difference is that my motorcycle rotors are made of high quality steel, unlike all the cheap Corvette rotors.

For street use you can get ebay zinc coated rotors for around $200 so it's probably a good idea to just replace them when you get new pads.

If you're going to the track, either get the Napa rotors and replace them every time, or spend the big bucks for high quality brakes.

I'm cheap so I have the zinc coated rotors for the street(no rust) and Napa rotors for the track.

Dog

Get notified of new replies

To Changing pads without changing rotors




Quick Reply: Changing pads without changing rotors



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:57 PM.