GrantR

Hello,

My C5 Z06 is in getting a leaking rear diff fixed under warrantee, and I'll be having to re-align the thing when I get it back.

I'm currently trying to find out how to actually do an alignment, as the race shop I'll be taking the car to hasn't done a Vette before, and am failing miserably. Do I need to get a shop manual or something in order to find out how to adjust camber/caster/etc, or do I suck at internet research, or is it really just so blindingly obvious that no one has thought to post anything on the internet?

But anyway, my question is what's legal for adjusting for the SCCA SS class? I know I can't cut bushings etc for ride height. I've discovered that apparently there are some shims that can be removed from the front upper arms that can increase the available front camber - is such an adjustment legal? Or am I limited to just what can be achieved by the usual camber adjustment thingy?

My usual alignment has been -2.0 front camber and -1.4 at the back (assuming nothing's slipped in 2 years). The back seems good at -1.4, but I'm wanting to try another 1/4 to 1/2 degree of front camber out, if I can get it. Then if the front starts gripping too well then that will give me the perfect reason to upgrade the front bar.

What are the typical maximum cambers that you guys have been able to achieve on your alignments? and how did you get those numbers?

What torque do you guys recommend tightening the adjustment bolts to so that they don't slip? (i've heard they can slip easily if not torqued properly).

Are there any other sneaky little alignment tricks and tips that are worth knowing?

Thanks,
Grant.

Fast_Toys

I believe the rules say you can align your car using the factory alignment mechanism... ie you cannot slot holes, add shims etc.

Bill Dearborn

Some C5s come with washers behind the upper control arms and some do not. The washers are expensive buggers since they have some sort of plastic insert in the hole. My 97 came with 2 washers behind each of the left upper control arm bolt points and one behind the bolt points on the right side. My 03Z was aligned post factory but it did not have any washers at all. Typically what you can do is run the bottom cams on the front and rear lower control arm mounts to max negative camber and remove any washers behind the upper control arms. This should get you between 2 to 2.5 negative camber with the caster somewhere around +4 to +5. If you try to get more caster you will lose some of the negative camber. These adjustments are all within the range of the stock suspension. Maximize the negative camber settings on the rear lower control arms. You will get less negative camber on the rear. It should be between .7 and 1.0 depending on whether your car is lowered. You can lower the car on its bolts and should stay within GM's Z06 recommendation which I believe is a little less than an inch. This gets the car lower but still allows the suspension to work properly and to keep out of the shock jounce bumpers.

It is actually quite easy to set. If the shop removes any of the washers make sure you get them back for future use. They are worth about $5 each.

Bill