Help With Recording
09-04-2006, 11:39 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Help With Recording
Hello again,
I am installing my HardBar later this week. I would like to get a camcorder to record my first HPDE on 9/13
. So I need your help with:
1. A camera mount (what and where to buy) - Hardbar is out of stock.
2. What recording technology to get? Good old tape (now-a-days DV), the mini DVD or the new hard drive version? I am concerned with vibration during recording. I know DVD and HD recording might have serious challenges.
Thanks.
I am installing my HardBar later this week. I would like to get a camcorder to record my first HPDE on 9/13
. So I need your help with:1. A camera mount (what and where to buy) - Hardbar is out of stock.
2. What recording technology to get? Good old tape (now-a-days DV), the mini DVD or the new hard drive version? I am concerned with vibration during recording. I know DVD and HD recording might have serious challenges.
Thanks.
09-05-2006, 02:23 AM
#2
Drifting
Stay away from hard drive camcorders. I bought the Sony one for use in the car and it wont work for longer then a few feet before antiskip shuts it off.
09-05-2006, 07:36 AM
#3
Team Owner
I like the IO Port mount from LAPD 3 axis adjustment. I have a Sony DVD mini and it shuts off also after a few minutes CD are real short also 20-30 minutes. I thought hard drive ones would be better guess not. I am using my HI Sony tape for the past 7 years. PITA to convert to digital so that is why I bought the mini but it sucks. Sony still makes tape HI recorders and they are cheap. Buy a converter for a power source and skip the batteries as they die fast.
09-05-2006, 02:39 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
I use the I/O Port camera mount mounted to a harness bar, with strips of rubber inner tube clamped in between as a dampener.
I use an overly expensive Sony digital camcorder that my wife bought so she could tape the grandkids, but she never figured out how to use it. It uses the micro tapes that are much smaller than the standard mini tapes. I bought a universal wide angle lens at Circuit City and use that to widen the field of view. All of this works well, and I'm very pleased with my setup.
If I had to replace my camera, I'd get one that uses the regular mini tapes (much cheaper) and that has top loading for the tape. That prevents having to dismount the camera each time to change tapes. Cisitilia (CF member) can chime in with much more info about the camera best suited for filming.
I use an overly expensive Sony digital camcorder that my wife bought so she could tape the grandkids, but she never figured out how to use it. It uses the micro tapes that are much smaller than the standard mini tapes. I bought a universal wide angle lens at Circuit City and use that to widen the field of view. All of this works well, and I'm very pleased with my setup.
If I had to replace my camera, I'd get one that uses the regular mini tapes (much cheaper) and that has top loading for the tape. That prevents having to dismount the camera each time to change tapes. Cisitilia (CF member) can chime in with much more info about the camera best suited for filming.
09-05-2006, 04:06 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
I like the IO port mount too and use a Panasonic Digital with the Mini DV tapes. Works great...very little vibration...no cut offs. It's easy to change the tapes and batteries when needed.
09-05-2006, 05:54 PM
#9
Racer
Member Since: Apr 2004
Location: Charlotte NC
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I second the Panasonic digital equipment, although there are other great video cameras out there. The following are important considerations:
1) Top tape loading is essential in my book. Just like Falcon said.
2) Cheap and plentiful Mini-DV tapes, even at local gas stations when in a pinch.
3) Very important to have a metal recessed camera mount on the bottom of the camera. Many use plastic and not good for obvious reasons in our environment the camera will be used in (lots of G-forces need metal attachment points).
4) Nice to have image stablization. Optical is better, but not essential and electronic image stablization is better than none.
5) Look for the widest permanent regular lens to give the wider angle of view. A permanent wide angle is best for clarity and resolution, but as Falcon indicated an attached wide angle can give very good results.
6) 3-CCD cameras (separate red-green-blue video outputs) provide the best color and resolution, but not essential. Typically only pro-cameras have this feature.
7) Look for ease of battery replacement, again for obvious reasons. You want to minimize taking the camera off the mount, because there are some minute adjustments you have to make for proper field of view each time.
8) High quality lens. Mine uses Leica-Dicomar from the famous German manufacturer of very high quality lenses. Top end Sony uses Carl Zeiss lenses which are great, except those units are all bottom tape loaders which is why I did not pick Sony. In my opinion Leica are still better lenses.
9) Also a very useful feature is called "wind cut" which when turned on reduces any wind noise recorded as a result of the air coming into the cockpit at speed. I very much like this feature.
I picked Panasonic because it had all the above attributes and was priced reasonable. I may sound over board to some, but I got all those features in a camera (and more) and paid $400. I am very happy with that setup.
I use a Brey-Krause harness bar and camera mount. The system works great. A very high quality piece of equipment.
Also my camera works just fine in auto-focus. Never a hickup and always works.
1) Top tape loading is essential in my book. Just like Falcon said.
2) Cheap and plentiful Mini-DV tapes, even at local gas stations when in a pinch.
3) Very important to have a metal recessed camera mount on the bottom of the camera. Many use plastic and not good for obvious reasons in our environment the camera will be used in (lots of G-forces need metal attachment points).
4) Nice to have image stablization. Optical is better, but not essential and electronic image stablization is better than none.
5) Look for the widest permanent regular lens to give the wider angle of view. A permanent wide angle is best for clarity and resolution, but as Falcon indicated an attached wide angle can give very good results.
6) 3-CCD cameras (separate red-green-blue video outputs) provide the best color and resolution, but not essential. Typically only pro-cameras have this feature.
7) Look for ease of battery replacement, again for obvious reasons. You want to minimize taking the camera off the mount, because there are some minute adjustments you have to make for proper field of view each time.
8) High quality lens. Mine uses Leica-Dicomar from the famous German manufacturer of very high quality lenses. Top end Sony uses Carl Zeiss lenses which are great, except those units are all bottom tape loaders which is why I did not pick Sony. In my opinion Leica are still better lenses.
9) Also a very useful feature is called "wind cut" which when turned on reduces any wind noise recorded as a result of the air coming into the cockpit at speed. I very much like this feature.
I picked Panasonic because it had all the above attributes and was priced reasonable. I may sound over board to some, but I got all those features in a camera (and more) and paid $400. I am very happy with that setup.
I use a Brey-Krause harness bar and camera mount. The system works great. A very high quality piece of equipment.
Also my camera works just fine in auto-focus. Never a hickup and always works.
09-05-2006, 10:13 PM
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Cisitalia
I second the Panasonic digital equipment, although there are other great video cameras out there. The following are important considerations:
1) Top tape loading is essential in my book. Just like Falcon said.
Great Advise.
2) Cheap and plentiful Mini-DV tapes, even at local gas stations when in a pinch.
I had a feeling they would work best
3) Very important to have a metal recessed camera mount on the bottom of the camera. Many use plastic and not good for obvious reasons in our environment the camera will be used in (lots of G-forces need metal attachment points).
I will make sure metal is on the bottom
4) Nice to have image stablization. Optical is better, but not essential and electronic image stablization is better than none.
5) Look for the widest permanent regular lens to give the wider angle of view. A permanent wide angle is best for clarity and resolution, but as Falcon indicated an attached wide angle can give very good results.
6) 3-CCD cameras (separate red-green-blue video outputs) provide the best color and resolution, but not essential. Typically only pro-cameras have this feature.
7) Look for ease of battery replacement, again for obvious reasons. You want to minimize taking the camera off the mount, because there are some minute adjustments you have to make for proper field of view each time.
Do you use the rechargables? ome can take 4 AA or AAA instead.
8) High quality lens. Mine uses Leica-Dicomar from the famous German manufacturer of very high quality lenses. Top end Sony uses Carl Zeiss lenses which are great, except those units are all bottom tape loaders which is why I did not pick Sony. In my opinion Leica are still better lenses.
I useb to be in phto finishing. Leica is second to none. Some high-end lenses in Photo industry take years to cool
during manufacturing.
9) Also a very useful feature is called "wind cut" which when turned on reduces any wind noise recorded as a result of the air coming into the cockpit at speed. I very much like this feature.
Great idea. I was not aware of that.
I picked Panasonic because it had all the above attributes and was priced reasonable. I may sound over board to some, but I got all those features in a camera (and more) and paid $400. I am very happy with that setup.
Any particular model?
I use a Brey-Krause harness bar and camera mount. The system works great. A very high quality piece of equipment.
I was looking at the VS Billet mount. Any opinions?
Also my camera works just fine in auto-focus. Never a hickup and always works.
1) Top tape loading is essential in my book. Just like Falcon said.
Great Advise.
2) Cheap and plentiful Mini-DV tapes, even at local gas stations when in a pinch.
I had a feeling they would work best
3) Very important to have a metal recessed camera mount on the bottom of the camera. Many use plastic and not good for obvious reasons in our environment the camera will be used in (lots of G-forces need metal attachment points).
I will make sure metal is on the bottom
4) Nice to have image stablization. Optical is better, but not essential and electronic image stablization is better than none.
5) Look for the widest permanent regular lens to give the wider angle of view. A permanent wide angle is best for clarity and resolution, but as Falcon indicated an attached wide angle can give very good results.
6) 3-CCD cameras (separate red-green-blue video outputs) provide the best color and resolution, but not essential. Typically only pro-cameras have this feature.
7) Look for ease of battery replacement, again for obvious reasons. You want to minimize taking the camera off the mount, because there are some minute adjustments you have to make for proper field of view each time.
Do you use the rechargables? ome can take 4 AA or AAA instead.
8) High quality lens. Mine uses Leica-Dicomar from the famous German manufacturer of very high quality lenses. Top end Sony uses Carl Zeiss lenses which are great, except those units are all bottom tape loaders which is why I did not pick Sony. In my opinion Leica are still better lenses.
I useb to be in phto finishing. Leica is second to none. Some high-end lenses in Photo industry take years to cool
during manufacturing.9) Also a very useful feature is called "wind cut" which when turned on reduces any wind noise recorded as a result of the air coming into the cockpit at speed. I very much like this feature.
Great idea. I was not aware of that.
I picked Panasonic because it had all the above attributes and was priced reasonable. I may sound over board to some, but I got all those features in a camera (and more) and paid $400. I am very happy with that setup.
Any particular model?
I use a Brey-Krause harness bar and camera mount. The system works great. A very high quality piece of equipment.
I was looking at the VS Billet mount. Any opinions?
Also my camera works just fine in auto-focus. Never a hickup and always works.
09-05-2006, 11:00 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Aug 2000
Location: Boca Raton, FL
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Skip the camera mount. If you want SD get a Samsung sports camera and mount the bullet camera to a suction mount on the windshield. You will get much better sensation of speed. If you want HD get a Sanyo HD1 and mount it to the winshield with a Cardellini clamp. If you search the threads I have posted you will find some video as examples.
09-06-2006, 07:15 AM
#12
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2003
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Originally Posted by Cisitalia
I second the Panasonic digital equipment, although there are other great video cameras out there. The following are important considerations:
1) Top tape loading is essential in my book. Just like Falcon said.
2) Cheap and plentiful Mini-DV tapes, even at local gas stations when in a pinch.
3) Very important to have a metal recessed camera mount on the bottom of the camera. Many use plastic and not good for obvious reasons in our environment the camera will be used in (lots of G-forces need metal attachment points).
4) Nice to have image stablization. Optical is better, but not essential and electronic image stablization is better than none.
5) Look for the widest permanent regular lens to give the wider angle of view. A permanent wide angle is best for clarity and resolution, but as Falcon indicated an attached wide angle can give very good results.
6) 3-CCD cameras (separate red-green-blue video outputs) provide the best color and resolution, but not essential. Typically only pro-cameras have this feature.
7) Look for ease of battery replacement, again for obvious reasons. You want to minimize taking the camera off the mount, because there are some minute adjustments you have to make for proper field of view each time.
8) High quality lens. Mine uses Leica-Dicomar from the famous German manufacturer of very high quality lenses. Top end Sony uses Carl Zeiss lenses which are great, except those units are all bottom tape loaders which is why I did not pick Sony. In my opinion Leica are still better lenses.
9) Also a very useful feature is called "wind cut" which when turned on reduces any wind noise recorded as a result of the air coming into the cockpit at speed. I very much like this feature.
I picked Panasonic because it had all the above attributes and was priced reasonable. I may sound over board to some, but I got all those features in a camera (and more) and paid $400. I am very happy with that setup.
I use a Brey-Krause harness bar and camera mount. The system works great. A very high quality piece of equipment.
Also my camera works just fine in auto-focus. Never a hickup and always works.
1) Top tape loading is essential in my book. Just like Falcon said.
2) Cheap and plentiful Mini-DV tapes, even at local gas stations when in a pinch.
3) Very important to have a metal recessed camera mount on the bottom of the camera. Many use plastic and not good for obvious reasons in our environment the camera will be used in (lots of G-forces need metal attachment points).
4) Nice to have image stablization. Optical is better, but not essential and electronic image stablization is better than none.
5) Look for the widest permanent regular lens to give the wider angle of view. A permanent wide angle is best for clarity and resolution, but as Falcon indicated an attached wide angle can give very good results.
6) 3-CCD cameras (separate red-green-blue video outputs) provide the best color and resolution, but not essential. Typically only pro-cameras have this feature.
7) Look for ease of battery replacement, again for obvious reasons. You want to minimize taking the camera off the mount, because there are some minute adjustments you have to make for proper field of view each time.
8) High quality lens. Mine uses Leica-Dicomar from the famous German manufacturer of very high quality lenses. Top end Sony uses Carl Zeiss lenses which are great, except those units are all bottom tape loaders which is why I did not pick Sony. In my opinion Leica are still better lenses.
9) Also a very useful feature is called "wind cut" which when turned on reduces any wind noise recorded as a result of the air coming into the cockpit at speed. I very much like this feature.
I picked Panasonic because it had all the above attributes and was priced reasonable. I may sound over board to some, but I got all those features in a camera (and more) and paid $400. I am very happy with that setup.
I use a Brey-Krause harness bar and camera mount. The system works great. A very high quality piece of equipment.
Also my camera works just fine in auto-focus. Never a hickup and always works.
09-06-2006, 08:21 AM
#13
Team Owner
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Originally Posted by Blocktrdr
Skip the camera mount. If you want SD get a Samsung sports camera and mount the bullet camera to a suction mount on the windshield. You will get much better sensation of speed. If you want HD get a Sanyo HD1 and mount it to the winshield with a Cardellini clamp. If you search the threads I have posted you will find some video as examples.
Most car clubs and race orgizations require a 'metal to metal' contact for camera mounts. ie no suction cups, no matter how good they are.
09-06-2006, 09:48 AM
#14
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Most car clubs and race orgizations require a 'metal to metal' contact for camera mounts. ie no suction cups, no matter how good they are.
If the club is that ****, it could easily be hard mounted in the nose for an even better view. The beauty of this setup is that the actual camera records the sound. It can be placed under the dash, or in a front mount, behind the bumper and there is no wind noise.
I am only talking about HPDE's. Racing is different obviously.
09-06-2006, 04:51 PM
#15
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To avoid pesky wind buffetting blowing out the audio, one solution is to use an external mic. I got a nice stereo battery powered external mic which I clamp to the passenger side sun visor. There's no wind up there, and the mic picks absolutely everything up. But be aware that most cheaper cameras don't have plugs for attaching external cameras or microphones.
I use the Hardbar camera mount on my Hardbar harness bar. It's just about the simplist and most solid possible mount you can get, to reduce camera vibration. I tried a couple of other mounts (not the beefy ones recommended here) and they suffered from a lot of vibration through each ball joint. Unfortunately due to the nature of the bar's design the bar itself still allows a little bit of twist, so there's a little bit of forward/backward rocking going on (it's subtle, strangely most noticable at idle). But my camera's a big fat 3CCD Sony so it's got a lot of mass that I have to try to stablise. My latest solution is to run the output video through a plugin for VirtualDub called Deshaker that can totally cancel out all vibration. I found from experimenting that the image stablisation just made the video feel weird when I watched it, so I turn it off (Deshaker eliminates the need for it anyway).
Get a tape based camcorder. But even then once in a while it'll glitch a bit over sharp bumps.
A wide angle lens is very useful too.
I use the Hardbar camera mount on my Hardbar harness bar. It's just about the simplist and most solid possible mount you can get, to reduce camera vibration. I tried a couple of other mounts (not the beefy ones recommended here) and they suffered from a lot of vibration through each ball joint. Unfortunately due to the nature of the bar's design the bar itself still allows a little bit of twist, so there's a little bit of forward/backward rocking going on (it's subtle, strangely most noticable at idle). But my camera's a big fat 3CCD Sony so it's got a lot of mass that I have to try to stablise. My latest solution is to run the output video through a plugin for VirtualDub called Deshaker that can totally cancel out all vibration. I found from experimenting that the image stablisation just made the video feel weird when I watched it, so I turn it off (Deshaker eliminates the need for it anyway).
Get a tape based camcorder. But even then once in a while it'll glitch a bit over sharp bumps.
A wide angle lens is very useful too.
