Ever see a wheel stud strip when removing the lug!?!? Hit it w/ a dye? Size?
#1
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Ever see a wheel stud strip when removing the lug!?!? Hit it w/ a dye? Size?
Taking off my track wheels tonight one of the lugs didn't break free... after a feew turns it came loose, but in doing so it took a piece of stud w/ it an the inside of the lug is boogered up.
I'm at a loss... I always start my lugs by hand beofore running them on w/ the drill. Any clue how this happened?
Can I just go get a tap/dye and clean it up? What size do I need for OEM wheel studs?
Thanks,
Brian
I'm at a loss... I always start my lugs by hand beofore running them on w/ the drill. Any clue how this happened?
Can I just go get a tap/dye and clean it up? What size do I need for OEM wheel studs?
Thanks,
Brian
#2
Le Mans Master
Taking off my track wheels tonight one of the lugs didn't break free... after a feew turns it came loose, but in doing so it took a piece of stud w/ it an the inside of the lug is boogered up.
I'm at a loss... I always start my lugs by hand beofore running them on w/ the drill. Any clue how this happened?
Can I just go get a tap/dye and clean it up? What size do I need for OEM wheel studs?
Thanks,
Brian
I'm at a loss... I always start my lugs by hand beofore running them on w/ the drill. Any clue how this happened?
Can I just go get a tap/dye and clean it up? What size do I need for OEM wheel studs?
Thanks,
Brian
That is only a flesh wound it will clean up with a die no problem...
#9
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I would replace the stud. It is getting ready to fail and you were lucky to get it off without breaking it off in the lug nut. It hasn't anything to do with cross threading. After a certain number of times torquing the wheels down the stud threads start to fatigue and stretch. You get one last time tightening them and the lug nut seizes to the stud as the threads stretch and no longer quite match the threads in the lug nut. I just had this happen a month ago but my stud broke off in the nut. Over the years I have had it happen quite few times.
Bill
Bill
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^ How hard is it to replace the stud? Can't I drill holes somewhere so I don't have to remove the hub assembly?
Any tools to buy that will make pressing it in easy?
Thanks,
Brian
Any tools to buy that will make pressing it in easy?
Thanks,
Brian
#11
Melting Slicks
to press it in, just get the harbor freight balljoint tool, and get creative with spacers (i used a pipewrench). removing the spindle and hub isnt too hard. the annoying part is finding a socket big enough for the axle nut.
#12
Safety Car
It's not that tough to just remove the assembly Brian. Something like 8-10 bolts. The only tough one is the lower ball joint.
I used a socket + vise to push the stud out.
I used a socket + vise to push the stud out.
#13
Safety Car
Replacing studs is a snap - thread a lug nut on several threads then hammer the old one out. I have a C4 so no dust shields, but it sounds like all you need to do is expose the back of the nut. If you're tracking your car you ought to ditch the dust shields, anyway.
Stick the new one in and either press it in with a big-a$$ C-clamp and a 1/2" drive deep well socket, or simply stick the new stud through the hub, put a few washers over the front, and thread a lug nut on until the stud bottoms out. I've done it a million times that way at the track when I don't have many tools or much time.
And again, since you're tracking your car I'd get some hardened studs. Longer, too, if you're OK with how they look. You can get a set of ARP studs at any performance shop or online at Summit.
Stick the new one in and either press it in with a big-a$$ C-clamp and a 1/2" drive deep well socket, or simply stick the new stud through the hub, put a few washers over the front, and thread a lug nut on until the stud bottoms out. I've done it a million times that way at the track when I don't have many tools or much time.
And again, since you're tracking your car I'd get some hardened studs. Longer, too, if you're OK with how they look. You can get a set of ARP studs at any performance shop or online at Summit.
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I think for now I'm just going to go get some spare oem wheel studs and replace the one.
I have a bad habbit of overdoing things... one boogered up stud will turn into all new studs, new lugs, poly bushings, and twin tubros.
I have a bad habbit of overdoing things... one boogered up stud will turn into all new studs, new lugs, poly bushings, and twin tubros.
#17
Drifting
wire brush studs.....very light coat of anti-sieze (LPS 1® Premium greaseless lubricant preferred).
Nix the twin turbos.
Nix the twin turbos.
Last edited by DoingOK; 06-29-2007 at 10:09 AM.
#18
Safety Car
At least get hardened studs. Replace them as they break. There's no reason not to. The cost difference is negligible, but you'll probably have to call around and find some.
#20