Cobra4B

I had to replace 3 wheel studs that had given up after 4 years of taking wheels on/off. The fronts were simple. Tap out lightly w/ a hammer, then use a stack of washers and a lug to pull the new one in.

The rears... not so much... manual calls for removing the rear hub, but I kept reading how it was super easy to just drill an access hole in line w/ the studs to slide them out.

Not so easy... there is only one location on the parking brake backing plate that is clear and in line w/ the studs. It is on the forward side just above where the parking brake retainer spring attaches, there is nowhere else to drill. Even after drilling the hole isn't in line w/ the studs... you have to get all the way to the edge of the hub for the stud to come out.

In doing this I had to take the parking brake off and the retainer spring... there's no other way to get the studs out as the spring is in the way.

So... after removing the brake stuff I went to Home Depot to get a good dremmel bit... I couldn't get the "hole" all the way to the edge of the hub w/ the drill bit.



Here's the end result of the cutting... make sure you leave the brake spring "holder" in place, if you don't then you can't run your parking brake (I think, not sure what it'd do w/o that spring to hold it in place... stops the shoe from moving side to side).


Insert new stud and pull through w/ washers.


The completely evil part... the part w/o pics... was getting the parking brake shoe back on and the spring back in w/ the hub/bearing all in place. The shop manual specifically says that the first step to replacing the brake shoe or adjsuter is to remove the hub/bearing assembly. This makes putting in the spring a snap.

It took me over an hour w/ scewdrivers etc to figure out a way to force it in and get it in place ... it was a bitch.

So... in the end... is this short cut only really a short cut for track cars w/o parking brakes?

~Brian

illmac77

Damn, thats a nice hole Brian...nice write up and everything is back to being solid again

TedDBere

I debated drilling a hole in mine but in the end I just took the hub assembly off and did the repacement on the work bench. It went much smoother than I thought it would and I don't worry about rocks getting into that hole and into the parking brake area.

Thanks for the pictures.

Cobra4B

There's allready 2 holes in the parking brake shield... After fighting w/ this I'll just remove the hub.

What'd you use to seperate the lower ball joint w/o messing it up? I used a pickle fork on my fronts when replacing the hubs but got lucky that I didn't booger up the ball joints.

I really think this tech tip was for ars w/o parking brakes, anyone know?

Cobra4B

Well apparently the "easy out" method really only applies to track cars w/o parking brakes I'm lucky to have been able to finagle the shoe retainer spring back in there.

TedDBere

I don't remember it being that difficult. Loosen the nuts until they are flush with the top of the stud (use the allen wrench hole to hold the spindle while you loosen the nut) and then I used a piece of wood and a hammer. A couple of taps and it was free.

Cobra4B

^ Hmmm on my fronts that didn't work... I had to use a pickle fork. Did you remove the upper ball joint?

TedDBere

I took the whole spindle to the workbench. Seperated the bottom first and then the top.

MUKAK

nice write up

thanks

Cobra4B

You took the upper control arm too?

2K3Z06

Hey Cobra, Try this tool. Kent-Moore #J-42188-A. Ball Joint Separator. It was made for working on aluminum suspension pieces. The pickle fork might leave some nasty gouches in the aluminum.

Cheers

BQuicksilver

Yeah, avoid the pickle fork. I cut a 2x4 about 12" long and used a 3lb hammer after loosening the nut like Ted suggested. I held the 2x4 so you were hitting the end and had the other end placed on the front of the lower A arm with a jack pushing up on the parking brake to help out. Take some good swings and it will go. Mine was pretty stuck the first time.

I nearly purchased the kent moore tool and am glad I didn't now.

CHJ In Virginia

The Kent Moore tool makes the job much easier and will not damage your ball joints. It works like a charm, but that booger is expensive - $219.00 shipped, but worth it. I changed all the studs front and rear to ARP high strength ones. If you are going to disassemble why stay with the stock studs !

petefias

Just replaced my front hub without touching the ball jounts on my ZR1. The hub has a hole that allows the removal of the studs, easy as pie

freefall

For reinstalling the p-brake shoes...here's a tip I've found (one kept pulling off when ever I removed the rotor!!!). Put one end of the retainer clip in place, and push a screw driver in the hole by the clip from the back-side...that will hold it on. Then tackle the other one and the end of the spring.

Oyishdog

I good set of needle nose is all you need. I screwed up my parking brake on the c5 z06 that each time I had to change rotors, the spring would pop out...needless to say, I got really good at fixing it.

TedDBere

No. The spindle was freed on the car and then taken to the workbench.

Cobra4B

That's what I eventually figured out... I got one part in, held it in place w/ needle nose pliers, then used a screwdriver on the other part.