Do you safety wire your two piece rotors?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 2,462
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Do you safety wire your two piece rotors?
I just received some 2-piece Wilwood GT rotors and I'm wondering if Safety wires are absolutely necessary or is it just a precaution. I tried searching and I guess stop tech doesn't require sw. Why not? Anyone run these without the sw?
#2
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Posts: 18,343
Received 767 Likes
on
549 Posts
I recently put some Wilwood rotors on my '69 project car. The bolts are drilled for safety wire, so I was planning on eventually wiring them before it hits the road. I've pretty much figured out how I was going to run the wires, but I'd like to see some pictures of rotors that are already wired just for comparison.
#3
Burning Brakes
You bet my sweet life I do. Some say to just use red Loctite but I am aware that when you want to remove a bolt locked in place with the stuff you apply HEAT to break the bond. Guess what? Under intense use rotors will glow red hot.
My sweet life deserves safety wire, how about yours?
My sweet life deserves safety wire, how about yours?
#5
Le Mans Master
Something tells me that if the rotor was designed to be used with safety wire, it's probably a good idea to use it. If they could get away with not using it, they probably wouldn't give you hardware for it. I'm not an engineer, so I trust what they tell me
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 24,652
Received 297 Likes
on
94 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05-'08
we safety wire all the Wilwood GT rotors. It really is not hard to do, but it takes practice to get it right.
BTW - the back rotors are harder to do then the front because of the e-brake.
BTW - the back rotors are harder to do then the front because of the e-brake.
#7
Burning Brakes
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: If you don't weigh in you don't wrestle Road America
Posts: 3,031
Likes: 0
Received 73 Likes
on
54 Posts
I talked with someone from Wilwood and asked if it was absolutely necessary, he paused and told me he can't tell me not to saftey wire, but....
I saftey wired most of last year, and then switched to blue locktite, I have replaced 4 sets of rotors since and after hitting temps in the 1000 to 890 range (according to my rotor paint) I have never had a loose bolt. I do use new fasteners each time I change out rotors because the old fasteners come out hard. I also plan on replacing the hats at the end of the year due to running a thread chaser through the hats when I change rotors.
I will say do what your comfotable with, I was getting tired of saftey wireing the rotors so I thought I would try the locktite, it proved itself to me, but to each there own. I also mark the backside of the bolts with marker on the outward facing hat to keep on eye on the bolts to, give me some idea if they are moving, so far so good.
I saftey wired most of last year, and then switched to blue locktite, I have replaced 4 sets of rotors since and after hitting temps in the 1000 to 890 range (according to my rotor paint) I have never had a loose bolt. I do use new fasteners each time I change out rotors because the old fasteners come out hard. I also plan on replacing the hats at the end of the year due to running a thread chaser through the hats when I change rotors.
I will say do what your comfotable with, I was getting tired of saftey wireing the rotors so I thought I would try the locktite, it proved itself to me, but to each there own. I also mark the backside of the bolts with marker on the outward facing hat to keep on eye on the bolts to, give me some idea if they are moving, so far so good.
#9
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Bedford NH
Posts: 5,708
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Cruise-In II Veteran
FYI, as a data point, on jets, you will see safety wire, and almost never see "Locktite". Personally, I do not own any Locktite, but I do have 3 sizes SS safety wire, 2 twister tools, and a bolt head drill guide. Just a thought, just a thought...
#10
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: If you don't weigh in you don't wrestle Road America
Posts: 3,031
Likes: 0
Received 73 Likes
on
54 Posts
I totally agree that saftey wiring is safer, however GM seems to believe in thread locker. Like in the case of the caliper bolts etc.
If you want to be sure that the bolt doesn't move saftey wiring is always going to be the best way, it's up to you weather you want to do it, I'm just saying there is another option if you want to.
I have had good results (or luck however you want to look at it) with locktite.
If you want to be sure that the bolt doesn't move saftey wiring is always going to be the best way, it's up to you weather you want to do it, I'm just saying there is another option if you want to.
I have had good results (or luck however you want to look at it) with locktite.
#12
Burning Brakes
I totally agree that saftey wiring is safer, however GM seems to believe in thread locker. Like in the case of the caliper bolts etc.
If you want to be sure that the bolt doesn't move saftey wiring is always going to be the best way, it's up to you weather you want to do it, I'm just saying there is another option if you want to.
I have had good results (or luck however you want to look at it) with locktite.
If you want to be sure that the bolt doesn't move saftey wiring is always going to be the best way, it's up to you weather you want to do it, I'm just saying there is another option if you want to.
I have had good results (or luck however you want to look at it) with locktite.
I am not sure if they use Loctite on the two caliper bolts/pins.
The GM rotor is a 1 piece unit.
The Wilwood unit is a lighter two piece.
The rotors absorb and dissapate the majority of the heat. This means that under track conditions rotor and pad temps can reach well over 1000 degrees. This is easily enough heat to break the bond that loctite creates. (bracket and caliper bolts will never see these temps) In addition the Wilwood hub is aluminium while the 1/4 bolts that hold it to the rotor are steel and these two metals have very different expansion rates.
When I took all of this into consideration I quickly reached the conclusion that it would be smart to wire mine. I know that many people do not bother to wire these and that on a purely street driven car they may never have a problem. But really, for the cost of some safety wire and a pair or wire twisters isn't it worth the time????
#14
Le Mans Master
As John Siels mentioned, Stoptech uses different fasteners. Mine are NOT safety wired, and I have had absolutely zero reason to wire them. SO....it will be interesting to see what Stoptech tech Jeff Ritter has to say when he weighs in on this.
#15
I saftywire everything I can.
Riding motorcycles has tought me how vibration and heat tends to loosen everything.
Besides using the right tool for this job ( available at motorcycle shops ) is kind of fun.
Riding motorcycles has tought me how vibration and heat tends to loosen everything.
Besides using the right tool for this job ( available at motorcycle shops ) is kind of fun.
#16
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Bedford NH
Posts: 5,708
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Cruise-In II Veteran
We don't safety the fasteners on our rotors either because of the design that constrains the bolt head and we use Nord-locks on the nut side with no threads in shear, see below. However, this thread was specifically addressing the Wilwood rotors that have tapped threads in the hat with the fastener going in from the back side. Loctite is worthless especially on a very high heat part.
#17
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: If you don't weigh in you don't wrestle Road America
Posts: 3,031
Likes: 0
Received 73 Likes
on
54 Posts
Wilwoods are the only rotors that I know that require saftey wiring, when looking at a BBK I think that this is a disadvantage to the Wilwoods.
If you don't do your own rotor swaps the Wilwood rotors will require a $50 bolt set plus about 1/2 hour to saftey wire 2 rotors, maybe a little longer on the rears since the parking brake bell makes things a PITA.
I know that StopTech sells you a rotor [B]AND[B] the hardware, smart.
Also rotors such as StopTechs have individual nuts and bolts unlike the Wilwoods that use the hat as the nut, which is a disadvantage because after enough rotor swaps you will have to replace the hats.
I know I'm the only one crazy enough to put locktite on rotors but I can definatly see the pluses and minuses of the various rotors out there.
Gary what kind of hardware do you incorperate in your rotors, BTW nice looking setup.
If you don't do your own rotor swaps the Wilwood rotors will require a $50 bolt set plus about 1/2 hour to saftey wire 2 rotors, maybe a little longer on the rears since the parking brake bell makes things a PITA.
I know that StopTech sells you a rotor [B]AND[B] the hardware, smart.
Also rotors such as StopTechs have individual nuts and bolts unlike the Wilwoods that use the hat as the nut, which is a disadvantage because after enough rotor swaps you will have to replace the hats.
I know I'm the only one crazy enough to put locktite on rotors but I can definatly see the pluses and minuses of the various rotors out there.
Gary what kind of hardware do you incorperate in your rotors, BTW nice looking setup.
#19
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Bedford NH
Posts: 5,708
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Cruise-In II Veteran
Thanks! We use only AN (aircraft) hardware on rotors. No threads in shear, very tight tolerances. These days you do not need clearance holes that are significantly larger than the fastener, modern CNC machine tools allow perfect fits with little to no clearance and it still fits perfectly.
#20
Drifting
Member Since: May 2006
Location: Youngstown Ohio
Posts: 1,544
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts