brake pad choice
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
brake pad choice
After this weekends track day, I have decided to try some more race prepared brake pads on the Grand Sport.With the new DOT 5,1 fluid, I dont boil the brake fluid any more , but the stock OEM pads runs hot and loose power after a few laps...
What "race" pads can you run, that also works on the street?
Has anyone tried EBC "red stuff"
I plan on adding brake ducts later on, but do I risk loosing the advantage of "race" /high temp pads, when I also cool my brakes additionally?
The car performs great, all I want is more bite on my brakes, and I want the bit to last has they get a little hotter.
What "race" pads can you run, that also works on the street?
Has anyone tried EBC "red stuff"
I plan on adding brake ducts later on, but do I risk loosing the advantage of "race" /high temp pads, when I also cool my brakes additionally?
The car performs great, all I want is more bite on my brakes, and I want the bit to last has they get a little hotter.
#2
Le Mans Master
Performance Friction (PFC), Hawk, Carbotech, and Wilwood all make a range of brake pads, from mild to full race pads. Some forum members use race pads on the street, but I don't recommend that. I use Pagid Blue for the street, and PFC-01 on the track.
#3
Burning Brakes
Try Hawk HP+ pads. They give you the added bite you are looking for, and work fine on the street. But they do produce a bit of dust. That's the trade-off when going to most of the higher performance pads. Keep an eye on your rotors when you move to race/street pads. They wear a lot faster and stock rotors are prone to cracking.
Just curious, but why did you go with DOT 5.1 fluid? Silicone? Generally, silicone fluids don't hold up well to high heat generated by tracking the car. IMHO, I'd have stuck with a DOT 3/4, like ATE Super Blue or Motul 600. But YMMV. Did you completely flush the system including the ABS when going to 5.1? The old stock DOT 3 is not compatible with 5.1, IIRC, and mixing them can cause problems.
As for ducts, they will not cool your brakes below operating temperature. But they will help your brakes handle the added heat load of running on the track. No reason not to do it.
Just curious, but why did you go with DOT 5.1 fluid? Silicone? Generally, silicone fluids don't hold up well to high heat generated by tracking the car. IMHO, I'd have stuck with a DOT 3/4, like ATE Super Blue or Motul 600. But YMMV. Did you completely flush the system including the ABS when going to 5.1? The old stock DOT 3 is not compatible with 5.1, IIRC, and mixing them can cause problems.
As for ducts, they will not cool your brakes below operating temperature. But they will help your brakes handle the added heat load of running on the track. No reason not to do it.
#4
Just curious, but why did you go with DOT 5.1 fluid? Silicone? Generally, silicone fluids don't hold up well to high heat generated by tracking the car. IMHO, I'd have stuck with a DOT 3/4, like ATE Super Blue or Motul 600. But YMMV. Did you completely flush the system including the ABS when going to 5.1? The old stock DOT 3 is not compatible with 5.1, IIRC, and mixing them can cause problems.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Yes, that why...Next time I will propperly use Castrol DOT4, has it has an ebven higher boiling point than my current DOT 5.1.
Has anyone tried EBC "yellow stuff", since that avalible where I live, I wonder if is can be use on the street?
#6
Burning Brakes
#7
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
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Look at the WET boiling points not the dry boiling points. Most fluid will be saturated with water 3-4% with in a week.
Any brake fluid that has a WET boiling point as close to if not above 400* is good to use. Remember brake fluid still must be checked after the first day and the calipers bleed before day two.
Any brake fluid that has a WET boiling point as close to if not above 400* is good to use. Remember brake fluid still must be checked after the first day and the calipers bleed before day two.
#8
Race Director
Look at the WET boiling points not the dry boiling points. Most fluid will be saturated with water 3-4% with in a week.
Any brake fluid that has a WET boiling point as close to if not above 400* is good to use. Remember brake fluid still must be checked after the first day and the calipers bleed before day two.
Any brake fluid that has a WET boiling point as close to if not above 400* is good to use. Remember brake fluid still must be checked after the first day and the calipers bleed before day two.
#10
Race Director
#11
Melting Slicks
#12
Drifting
I used Hawks on my GS. The spare set of wheels still has brake pad residue that won't come off.
I thought the XP9 F and Panther+ R combo was good enough for 2 mile circuits and very little dust on the street. Don't know if they still make those. XP10 fronts get the job done at larger faster tracks like Road America. XP12 has a little more bite, but the wear is a little more. All the Carbotech pads are rotor friendly.