FI / Roadracing / Cooling Issues
08-23-2007, 07:32 PM
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FI / Roadracing / Cooling Issues
FI / Roadracing / Cooling Issues
Guys: Need some help with some cooling problems I’m having. I’ll start with my original set up, then how I changed it and the issues it created, then some possible solutions and see what you all think…
Original setup
2002 Z06
Older A&A Corvette D1SC Supercharger & Intercooler set up with the radiator slightly layed down
Forged Engine & Internals
Stock radiator w/ only distilled water and Water Wetter
Stock fan shroud and spal fans
Still have A/C
Car producing around 650 & 560 at the rear wheels @ 7 lbs of boost
On a 85 degree day, I saw temps of about 185 while doing around 70 mph with A/C off (not bad at all)
So… I get the bug to put the car on Heartland Park’s (Topeka, KS) 2.5 mile road course… he’re the prep I did to help with cooling issues I saw coming my way…
Installed a DeWitts Direct Fit radiator which is over twice as thick as the stock radiator (w/o the oil cooler, P/N: A97M) and a modified stock fan shroud with spal fans producing 3200 CFM (Also from DeWitts, P/N: SP015)
Still used just water and Water Wetter
Opened up the front w/ a Halltech Tunnel Port (opens the area where the lisence plate goes)
On a 90 degree day, I saw temps of about 210 doing the same 70 mph also with A/C off
After this I shored up the areas around the radiator that air could pass by… fabbed some aluminum to keep air from going past the sides, top, and bottom, and even angled that plastic air dam up at a 45 degree angle to force air up into the radiator, A/C, and intercooler. Temps were better after this, but still not as good as cool as with the stock radiator. Why?!?
When I tracked the car at Heartland Park in a 2 day HPDE, I ran it hard, but probably only 80% of its capability and to the dismay of my instructors, I ran the heater at full blast any time I was on the track. It was 98-103 degrees at any time, and I saw temps of 243 coolant and 270 for oil. Two of my instructors w/ a basically stock 07 Coupe and 06 Z06 ran even hotter than I did. Was I babying the car?
Here are some solutions to keeping the car cooler when at the track (unfortunatly, I cant afford all of them at once but tell me what you think is the best bang for the buck).
1) Heat Extractor Hood
2) Oil Cooler
3) Kit from A&A to put the radiator back to its stock upright position
4) Meth Injection
5) Shoot the car with my .45
Sorry for the novel! I’d appreciate any thoughts you guys have!!
Steve
Guys: Need some help with some cooling problems I’m having. I’ll start with my original set up, then how I changed it and the issues it created, then some possible solutions and see what you all think…
Original setup
2002 Z06
Older A&A Corvette D1SC Supercharger & Intercooler set up with the radiator slightly layed down
Forged Engine & Internals
Stock radiator w/ only distilled water and Water Wetter
Stock fan shroud and spal fans
Still have A/C
Car producing around 650 & 560 at the rear wheels @ 7 lbs of boost
On a 85 degree day, I saw temps of about 185 while doing around 70 mph with A/C off (not bad at all)
So… I get the bug to put the car on Heartland Park’s (Topeka, KS) 2.5 mile road course… he’re the prep I did to help with cooling issues I saw coming my way…
Installed a DeWitts Direct Fit radiator which is over twice as thick as the stock radiator (w/o the oil cooler, P/N: A97M) and a modified stock fan shroud with spal fans producing 3200 CFM (Also from DeWitts, P/N: SP015)
Still used just water and Water Wetter
Opened up the front w/ a Halltech Tunnel Port (opens the area where the lisence plate goes)
On a 90 degree day, I saw temps of about 210 doing the same 70 mph also with A/C off
After this I shored up the areas around the radiator that air could pass by… fabbed some aluminum to keep air from going past the sides, top, and bottom, and even angled that plastic air dam up at a 45 degree angle to force air up into the radiator, A/C, and intercooler. Temps were better after this, but still not as good as cool as with the stock radiator. Why?!?
When I tracked the car at Heartland Park in a 2 day HPDE, I ran it hard, but probably only 80% of its capability and to the dismay of my instructors, I ran the heater at full blast any time I was on the track. It was 98-103 degrees at any time, and I saw temps of 243 coolant and 270 for oil. Two of my instructors w/ a basically stock 07 Coupe and 06 Z06 ran even hotter than I did. Was I babying the car?
Here are some solutions to keeping the car cooler when at the track (unfortunatly, I cant afford all of them at once but tell me what you think is the best bang for the buck).
1) Heat Extractor Hood
2) Oil Cooler
3) Kit from A&A to put the radiator back to its stock upright position
4) Meth Injection
5) Shoot the car with my .45
Sorry for the novel! I’d appreciate any thoughts you guys have!!
Steve
08-23-2007, 09:29 PM
#2
Former Vendor
Steve,
I get a ton of phone calls and e-mails about this same issue. Roadracing a supercharged Vette is a very hard thing to do. Why because of the horsepower(heat) and the intercooler in the way.
The thinkness of a radiator will change the way air flows inbetween the fins and may reduce the amount of cooling at one speed, 70mph. I wouldn't worry too much about that because it will help at other speeds and conditions, plus add to the overall volume of water. Contact Tom about fin counts and things like that to make sure you have the right radiator.
The Halltech piece I have always been a little weird about. That is a huge high pressure area, and maybe blowing the fresh air right out the orginal scoop. The stock scoop meets the 1/3 area requirements and shouldn't be a issue at all.
Fan shroud I have no idea, because I have never seen it before. But can be a issue if it's not right.
Radiator position is a issue and I would correct that straight away.
You changed a ton of things at once which is a no-no and I would start backing up a little to find what works best.
Your friends running hotter, Oil temp=RPM, Water temp=horsepower.
1. Hood, is always a great idea. Then work well, damn it I wish we still made ours
2. Oil cooler is a good idea, it will help with the water temps a little. You are already getting to the point of needing one anyways 270 boarder line.
3. Radiator stand up kit
Ask Andy if it will work. I know on the Ron Davis radiators we have to do some triming.
4.Meth injection, well I have never been a fan of this on a track. Something about a plastic tank and methonl, used on a track where others aren't aware of the dangers of dealing with it.
5. Shooting a car with a .45
Well the old farmers truck that we shot up with 12 gauges was a good time. It didn't help the resale value at all, but the smile on the old timer was priceless. Colt 1911? Trade for a oil cooler???
Randy
I get a ton of phone calls and e-mails about this same issue. Roadracing a supercharged Vette is a very hard thing to do. Why because of the horsepower(heat) and the intercooler in the way.
The thinkness of a radiator will change the way air flows inbetween the fins and may reduce the amount of cooling at one speed, 70mph. I wouldn't worry too much about that because it will help at other speeds and conditions, plus add to the overall volume of water. Contact Tom about fin counts and things like that to make sure you have the right radiator.
The Halltech piece I have always been a little weird about. That is a huge high pressure area, and maybe blowing the fresh air right out the orginal scoop. The stock scoop meets the 1/3 area requirements and shouldn't be a issue at all.
Fan shroud I have no idea, because I have never seen it before. But can be a issue if it's not right.
Radiator position is a issue and I would correct that straight away.
You changed a ton of things at once which is a no-no and I would start backing up a little to find what works best.
Your friends running hotter, Oil temp=RPM, Water temp=horsepower.
1. Hood, is always a great idea. Then work well, damn it I wish we still made ours
2. Oil cooler is a good idea, it will help with the water temps a little. You are already getting to the point of needing one anyways 270 boarder line.
3. Radiator stand up kit
Ask Andy if it will work. I know on the Ron Davis radiators we have to do some triming.4.Meth injection, well I have never been a fan of this on a track. Something about a plastic tank and methonl, used on a track where others aren't aware of the dangers of dealing with it.
5. Shooting a car with a .45
Well the old farmers truck that we shot up with 12 gauges was a good time. It didn't help the resale value at all, but the smile on the old timer was priceless. Colt 1911? Trade for a oil cooler???Randy
08-23-2007, 10:32 PM
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Randy@DRM Steve,
I get a ton of phone calls and e-mails about this same issue. Roadracing a supercharged Vette is a very hard thing to do. Why because of the horsepower(heat) and the intercooler in the way.
The thinkness of a radiator will change the way air flows inbetween the fins and may reduce the amount of cooling at one speed, 70mph. I wouldn't worry too much about that because it will help at other speeds and conditions, plus add to the overall volume of water. Contact Tom about fin counts and things like that to make sure you have the right radiator.
The Halltech piece I have always been a little weird about. That is a huge high pressure area, and maybe blowing the fresh air right out the orginal scoop. The stock scoop meets the 1/3 area requirements and shouldn't be a issue at all.
Fan shroud I have no idea, because I have never seen it before. But can be a issue if it's not right.
Radiator position is a issue and I would correct that straight away.
You changed a ton of things at once which is a no-no and I would start backing up a little to find what works best.
Your friends running hotter, Oil temp=RPM, Water temp=horsepower.
1. Hood, is always a great idea. Then work well, damn it I wish we still made ours
2. Oil cooler is a good idea, it will help with the water temps a little. You are already getting to the point of needing one anyways 270 boarder line.
3. Radiator stand up kit Ask Andy if it will work. I know on the Ron Davis radiators we have to do some triming.
4.Meth injection, well I have never been a fan of this on a track. Something about a plastic tank and methonl, used on a track where others aren't aware of the dangers of dealing with it.
5. Shooting a car with a .45 Well the old farmers truck that we shot up with 12 gauges was a good time. It didn't help the resale value at all, but the smile on the old timer was priceless. Colt 1911? Trade for a oil cooler???
Randy
I get a ton of phone calls and e-mails about this same issue. Roadracing a supercharged Vette is a very hard thing to do. Why because of the horsepower(heat) and the intercooler in the way.
The thinkness of a radiator will change the way air flows inbetween the fins and may reduce the amount of cooling at one speed, 70mph. I wouldn't worry too much about that because it will help at other speeds and conditions, plus add to the overall volume of water. Contact Tom about fin counts and things like that to make sure you have the right radiator.
The Halltech piece I have always been a little weird about. That is a huge high pressure area, and maybe blowing the fresh air right out the orginal scoop. The stock scoop meets the 1/3 area requirements and shouldn't be a issue at all.
Fan shroud I have no idea, because I have never seen it before. But can be a issue if it's not right.
Radiator position is a issue and I would correct that straight away.
You changed a ton of things at once which is a no-no and I would start backing up a little to find what works best.
Your friends running hotter, Oil temp=RPM, Water temp=horsepower.
1. Hood, is always a great idea. Then work well, damn it I wish we still made ours
2. Oil cooler is a good idea, it will help with the water temps a little. You are already getting to the point of needing one anyways 270 boarder line.
3. Radiator stand up kit Ask Andy if it will work. I know on the Ron Davis radiators we have to do some triming.
4.Meth injection, well I have never been a fan of this on a track. Something about a plastic tank and methonl, used on a track where others aren't aware of the dangers of dealing with it.
5. Shooting a car with a .45 Well the old farmers truck that we shot up with 12 gauges was a good time. It didn't help the resale value at all, but the smile on the old timer was priceless. Colt 1911? Trade for a oil cooler???
Randy
Thanks for the advice!All: FYI, I've done bussiness with 4 companies mainly while prepping for the HPDE... LGM, Stoptech, Dewitts, and DRM. DRM and specifically Randy have been bar none the best support of any. He is always willing to answer questions and help troubleshoot issues. If you work with them, your working with a great organization.
And BTW... the .45 is a Sig Sauer P220... better than a 1911 from what I know, and yes, I'll trade you for an oil cooler!
Steve
08-24-2007, 09:08 AM
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When I tracked the car at Heartland Park in a 2 day HPDE, I ran it hard, but probably only 80% of its capability and to the dismay of my instructors, I ran the heater at full blast any time I was on the track. It was 98-103 degrees at any time, and I saw temps of 243 coolant and 270 for oil. Two of my instructors w/ a basically stock 07 Coupe and 06 Z06 ran even hotter than I did. Was I babying the car?
Here are some solutions to keeping the car cooler when at the track (unfortunatly, I cant afford all of them at once but tell me what you think is the best bang for the buck).
1) Heat Extractor Hood
2) Oil Cooler
3) Kit from A&A to put the radiator back to its stock upright position
4) Meth Injection
5) Shoot the car with my .45
Here are some solutions to keeping the car cooler when at the track (unfortunatly, I cant afford all of them at once but tell me what you think is the best bang for the buck).
1) Heat Extractor Hood
2) Oil Cooler
3) Kit from A&A to put the radiator back to its stock upright position
4) Meth Injection
5) Shoot the car with my .45
243 coolant temps is too high, way too high.
270 oil temps is high, but not that bad
Both need to come down.
an extractor hood will help with the cooling of your larger radiator
Yes a separate oil cooler, not an integrated oil cooler
with a accu- or dry sump for a larger oil capacity
heavier wt oil 40 wt racing oil or 15-w 50
Circulating oil also helps cool the block, the more oil circulating the more cooling, same as the the volume of coolant. ( water and water wetter, maybe 10% dex
Meth injection or N2 will get you kicked out of most clubs and tracks once they find out.
Leave your radiator where it is if you get the extractor hood, but I would guess you will need to fabricate some tunnel to direct the air out of the hood and not into the engine bay.
What I dont know is, or Does the bottom breather air intake of our C5s provide enough air to flow though your radiator?
Last edited by AU N EGL; 08-24-2007 at 11:24 AM.
08-24-2007, 10:56 AM
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The coolant temp is hotter at cruise because you have an enclosed oil cooler. They heat each othe rup some at cruise speeds.
I have a Dewitts w/ left side EOC and I see 205 coolant and 210-214 oil temp when cruising. I also have an LS4 oil pump which is a high volume pump so the oil is under more pressure and thus a bit hotter.
However, this is all negated when on track and flogging the car... the oil temp stays in the high 250s and low 260s except for the hottest days when I've seen 276 one time.
I've also got my radiator shroud modified for more air flow, a TS facia which lets more air in, and a DRM vented hood.
I have a Dewitts w/ left side EOC and I see 205 coolant and 210-214 oil temp when cruising. I also have an LS4 oil pump which is a high volume pump so the oil is under more pressure and thus a bit hotter.
However, this is all negated when on track and flogging the car... the oil temp stays in the high 250s and low 260s except for the hottest days when I've seen 276 one time.
I've also got my radiator shroud modified for more air flow, a TS facia which lets more air in, and a DRM vented hood.
08-24-2007, 11:05 AM
#7
Former Vendor
The coolant temp is hotter at cruise because you have an enclosed oil cooler. They heat each othe rup some at cruise speeds.
I have a Dewitts w/ left side EOC and I see 205 coolant and 210-214 oil temp when cruising. I also have an LS4 oil pump which is a high volume pump so the oil is under more pressure and thus a bit hotter.
However, this is all negated when on track and flogging the car... the oil temp stays in the high 250s and low 260s except for the hottest days when I've seen 276 one time.
I've also got my radiator shroud modified for more air flow, a TS facia which lets more air in, and a DRM vented hood.
I have a Dewitts w/ left side EOC and I see 205 coolant and 210-214 oil temp when cruising. I also have an LS4 oil pump which is a high volume pump so the oil is under more pressure and thus a bit hotter.
However, this is all negated when on track and flogging the car... the oil temp stays in the high 250s and low 260s except for the hottest days when I've seen 276 one time.
I've also got my radiator shroud modified for more air flow, a TS facia which lets more air in, and a DRM vented hood.
160 degree t-stat and fan settings lowered???
Randy
PS Get a hold of me sometime next week about the oil cooler/trade!!! I have to think where we are going to put it.
08-24-2007, 02:50 PM
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Randy@DRM
I thought that he had a EOC radiator also. But I don't think he does.
160 degree t-stat and fan settings lowered???
Randy
PS Get a hold of me sometime next week about the oil cooler/trade!!! I have to think where we are going to put it.
Today 09:56 AM
I thought that he had a EOC radiator also. But I don't think he does.
160 degree t-stat and fan settings lowered???
Randy
PS Get a hold of me sometime next week about the oil cooler/trade!!! I have to think where we are going to put it.
Today 09:56 AM
I do have a 160 degree thermostat, I'll have to figure out the fan temp issue... my tuning software isnt working.
I'll call about the trade.
AU N EGL
From some one who works with lots of students and looks at lots and lots of equipment but has no fincial interest in any equipment.
243 coolant temps is too high, way too high.
270 oil temps is high, but not that bad
Both need to come down.
an extractor hood will help with the cooling of your larger radiator
Yes a separate oil cooler, not an integrated oil cooler
with a accu- or dry sump for a larger oil capacity
heavier wt oil 40 wt racing oil or 15-w 50
Circulating oil also helps cool the block, the more oil circulating the more cooling, same as the the volume of coolant. ( water and water wetter, maybe 10% dex
Meth injection or N2 will get you kicked out of most clubs and tracks once they find out.
Leave your radiator where it is if you get the extractor hood, but I would guess you will need to fabricate some tunnel to direct the air out of the hood and not into the engine bay.
What I dont know is, or Does the bottom breather air intake of our C5s provide enough air to flow though your radiator?
From some one who works with lots of students and looks at lots and lots of equipment but has no fincial interest in any equipment.
243 coolant temps is too high, way too high.
270 oil temps is high, but not that bad
Both need to come down.
an extractor hood will help with the cooling of your larger radiator
Yes a separate oil cooler, not an integrated oil cooler
with a accu- or dry sump for a larger oil capacity
heavier wt oil 40 wt racing oil or 15-w 50
Circulating oil also helps cool the block, the more oil circulating the more cooling, same as the the volume of coolant. ( water and water wetter, maybe 10% dex
Meth injection or N2 will get you kicked out of most clubs and tracks once they find out.
Leave your radiator where it is if you get the extractor hood, but I would guess you will need to fabricate some tunnel to direct the air out of the hood and not into the engine bay.
What I dont know is, or Does the bottom breather air intake of our C5s provide enough air to flow though your radiator?
Can you also elborate on why the 15W-40 for oil? I'm running Mobil 1 10W-30 right now.
Regarding what you said about Meth... I used to have it, but my pump broke... to give me a little engine protection (one purpose of Meth = slight Octane boost characteristic) I used a mix of 91 pump gas with 100 octane fuel.
Regarding air flow, I need to do some testing with my Halltech tunnel port taped off... if its cooler taped off, then I think the stock system is better, if hotter... that would indicate to me that the tunnel port or tiger shark front end is a benifit. Sound reasonable?
Last edited by Buckeyefaninks; 08-24-2007 at 02:51 PM. Reason: paragraph breaks
08-24-2007, 03:05 PM
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When one looks at race cars, NASCAR, sports cars or what ever, most run oil temps of 180 to 220, and coolant temp of the same. Your engine will produce the most power and run the most efficiently in that temp range.
When the temps get above 220 coolant and 260 oil, the efficiency and power produced drop significantly. Go do an event when it is 50-55 degrees out side. The track may not have any stick, but that your engine will love that cold air.
5-w30 M1 is a great oil for most applications. If or when you decide to make dedicated track car, a thicker oil is more heat tolerant and does not break down its viscosity as a 30wt oil does. This is where a straight 40wt racing oil or a 15-w50 oil comes in. at the higher temps the oil holds its viscosity and flows much better then a thinner oil.
Also the more oil volume you have, an accu-sump or better yet a dry sump, this also keeps the engine cooler.
Most ROAD race circuits and car clubs DO NOT ALLOW METH or N2 to be used in any car. Cars have gone bang to much, hence not allowed.
When the temps get above 220 coolant and 260 oil, the efficiency and power produced drop significantly. Go do an event when it is 50-55 degrees out side. The track may not have any stick, but that your engine will love that cold air.
5-w30 M1 is a great oil for most applications. If or when you decide to make dedicated track car, a thicker oil is more heat tolerant and does not break down its viscosity as a 30wt oil does. This is where a straight 40wt racing oil or a 15-w50 oil comes in. at the higher temps the oil holds its viscosity and flows much better then a thinner oil.
Also the more oil volume you have, an accu-sump or better yet a dry sump, this also keeps the engine cooler.
Most ROAD race circuits and car clubs DO NOT ALLOW METH or N2 to be used in any car. Cars have gone bang to much, hence not allowed.
Last edited by AU N EGL; 08-24-2007 at 07:45 PM.
08-25-2007, 01:10 PM
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AU N EGL
When one looks at race cars, NASCAR, sports cars or what ever, most run oil temps of 180 to 220, and coolant temp of the same. Your engine will produce the most power and run the most efficiently in that temp range.
When the temps get above 220 coolant and 260 oil, the efficiency and power produced drop significantly. Go do an event when it is 50-55 degrees out side. The track may not have any stick, but that your engine will love that cold air.
5-w30 M1 is a great oil for most applications. If or when you decide to make dedicated track car, a thicker oil is more heat tolerant and does not break down its viscosity as a 30wt oil does. This is where a straight 40wt racing oil or a 15-w50 oil comes in. at the higher temps the oil holds its viscosity and flows much better then a thinner oil.
Also the more oil volume you have, an accu-sump or better yet a dry sump, this also keeps the engine cooler.
Most ROAD race circuits and car clubs DO NOT ALLOW METH or N2 to be used in any car. Cars have gone bang to much, hence not allowed.
When one looks at race cars, NASCAR, sports cars or what ever, most run oil temps of 180 to 220, and coolant temp of the same. Your engine will produce the most power and run the most efficiently in that temp range.
When the temps get above 220 coolant and 260 oil, the efficiency and power produced drop significantly. Go do an event when it is 50-55 degrees out side. The track may not have any stick, but that your engine will love that cold air.
5-w30 M1 is a great oil for most applications. If or when you decide to make dedicated track car, a thicker oil is more heat tolerant and does not break down its viscosity as a 30wt oil does. This is where a straight 40wt racing oil or a 15-w50 oil comes in. at the higher temps the oil holds its viscosity and flows much better then a thinner oil.
Also the more oil volume you have, an accu-sump or better yet a dry sump, this also keeps the engine cooler.
Most ROAD race circuits and car clubs DO NOT ALLOW METH or N2 to be used in any car. Cars have gone bang to much, hence not allowed.
Randy@DRM
The Halltech piece I have always been a little weird about. That is a huge high pressure area, and maybe blowing the fresh air right out the orginal scoop. The stock scoop meets the 1/3 area requirements and shouldn't be a issue at all.
The Halltech piece I have always been a little weird about. That is a huge high pressure area, and maybe blowing the fresh air right out the orginal scoop. The stock scoop meets the 1/3 area requirements and shouldn't be a issue at all.
-Steve
08-28-2007, 12:58 AM
#11
Former Vendor
Good Info man, sincerely appreciate it. I hadnt considered the dry sump and dont know what an accu sump is but I'll do some research and see what I find. Are they difficult install or expensive?
Randy, can you explain the 1/3 area requirement? Im going to do some testing on that tunnelport... you may be right about air from the tunnel port somehow competing with the air from the underside...
-Steve
Randy, can you explain the 1/3 area requirement? Im going to do some testing on that tunnelport... you may be right about air from the tunnel port somehow competing with the air from the underside...
-Steve
The airflow requirements for a radiator core is the opening must be 1/3 the area of the core. This is a rule of thumb of course. So like the stock C5 radiator is 17 inches X 25 inches = 425 square inches. So the opening should be 141.6 square inches. The stock C5 is damn close to this rule, it's been ten years since I checked. Holy crap 10 years gone already
But anyways you should do some testing!!! This is the way radiators are layed down on racecars. It's a little harder to do with all the crap in a street car. Yes the bow in the bottom got a brace during assembly.
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09-05-2007, 10:39 PM
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Randy@DRM
Steve,
The airflow requirements for a radiator core is the opening must be 1/3 the area of the core. This is a rule of thumb of course. So like the stock C5 radiator is 17 inches X 25 inches = 425 square inches. So the opening should be 141.6 square inches. The stock C5 is damn close to this rule, it's been ten years since I checked. Holy crap 10 years gone already But anyways you should do some testing!!!
This is the way radiators are layed down on racecars. It's a little harder to do with all the crap in a street car. Yes the bow in the bottom got a brace during assembly.
Steve,
The airflow requirements for a radiator core is the opening must be 1/3 the area of the core. This is a rule of thumb of course. So like the stock C5 radiator is 17 inches X 25 inches = 425 square inches. So the opening should be 141.6 square inches. The stock C5 is damn close to this rule, it's been ten years since I checked. Holy crap 10 years gone already But anyways you should do some testing!!!
This is the way radiators are layed down on racecars. It's a little harder to do with all the crap in a street car. Yes the bow in the bottom got a brace during assembly.
Did some testing on that tunnel port... same route, starting coolant temp, etc... avg speed about 50, speed anywhere from 35 to 77. Results? Inconclusive. I cant see what effect the tunnel port air has on air coming from underneith the car, but there was no real difference in coolant temps. So...
What about thermostats or cooling fans? If my coolant temps at the track are always 210+ and speeds are frequently high... arent the thermostat and fans almost irrelevant? (Im ruling out certain variables)
Steve
09-06-2007, 10:20 AM
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Randy, Randy-randito, Baron-von-Randy... makin copies? (sorry... I saw SNL reruns the other day)
Did some testing on that tunnel port... same route, starting coolant temp, etc... avg speed about 50, speed anywhere from 35 to 77. Results? Inconclusive. I cant see what effect the tunnel port air has on air coming from underneith the car, but there was no real difference in coolant temps. So...
What about thermostats or cooling fans? If my coolant temps at the track are always 210+ and speeds are frequently high... arent the thermostat and fans almost irrelevant? (Im ruling out certain variables)
Steve
Did some testing on that tunnel port... same route, starting coolant temp, etc... avg speed about 50, speed anywhere from 35 to 77. Results? Inconclusive. I cant see what effect the tunnel port air has on air coming from underneith the car, but there was no real difference in coolant temps. So...
What about thermostats or cooling fans? If my coolant temps at the track are always 210+ and speeds are frequently high... arent the thermostat and fans almost irrelevant? (Im ruling out certain variables)
Steve
09-07-2007, 08:23 AM
#14
[Steve mate, not sure if you have already but have a look in the C5 FI section. there are a few guy that road race their boosted cars and they have come up with some interesting solutions to the dreaded heat problem!
i think the main thing is an oil cooler and trying to minimise the amount of stuff infront of the rad!
thanks Chris.
i think the main thing is an oil cooler and trying to minimise the amount of stuff infront of the rad!
thanks Chris.
