Stupid brake bleed question... do you remove MC cap before pushing pistons in?
10-09-2007, 03:14 PM
#1
Team Owner
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CI 3-5-6-7-8 Veteran
Stupid brake bleed question... do you remove MC cap before pushing pistons in?
I can't remember the proper procedure... but I do know that if I use my c-clamp w/ the MC cap off I make a huge mess as it squirts out the top.
So I leave hte MC cap on when pushing the pison back, but leave it off when bleeding.
What's the correct way?
I'm just going to get a motive power bleeder and be done with it... can't beat pressuring the system and just cracking a bleed screw.
So I leave hte MC cap on when pushing the pison back, but leave it off when bleeding.
What's the correct way?
I'm just going to get a motive power bleeder and be done with it... can't beat pressuring the system and just cracking a bleed screw.
Get the Motive and never put any fluid in it. 
10-09-2007, 04:00 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
...this makes the most sense as to not have an overflow mess, but my MC is not filled to the top so I've never had it overflow when pushing the pistons back into the calipers myself. 
10-09-2007, 04:14 PM
#9
Former Vendor
Our old shop truck had a piston about the size of a basketball
Talk about a pain.
If it is squirting, go slower, it may take a couple minutes a caliper. IF you push them in fast it will cause the squirt gun affect.
Randy
Talk about a pain.If it is squirting, go slower, it may take a couple minutes a caliper. IF you push them in fast it will cause the squirt gun affect.
Randy
10-09-2007, 04:52 PM
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Le Mans Master
10-09-2007, 05:12 PM
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Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11
Well ... perhaps I'm a candidate for the dumba$$ award ... but here's what I do:
Bleeding: crack the MC cap a quarter turn but leave it on. Top MC off with fresh fluid and keep an eye on the level as I bleed each wheel. Add fluid as needed to keep it above half.
Replacing pads: rather than pumping old fluid back into the lines, I mount a bleeder hose and crack the bleeder screws - old fluid goes out instead of back into the lines. Get the calipers bolted back on, then finish with a light bleed to ensure no air. Close bleeder and move on (making sure MC stays topped off).
Bleeding: crack the MC cap a quarter turn but leave it on. Top MC off with fresh fluid and keep an eye on the level as I bleed each wheel. Add fluid as needed to keep it above half.
Replacing pads: rather than pumping old fluid back into the lines, I mount a bleeder hose and crack the bleeder screws - old fluid goes out instead of back into the lines. Get the calipers bolted back on, then finish with a light bleed to ensure no air. Close bleeder and move on (making sure MC stays topped off).
10-09-2007, 09:55 PM
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Replacing pads: rather than pumping old fluid back into the lines, I mount a bleeder hose and crack the bleeder screws - old fluid goes out instead of back into the lines. Get the calipers bolted back on, then finish with a light bleed to ensure no air. Close bleeder and move on (making sure MC stays topped off).
That is a tip I learned from racers couple of years ago, makes sense to get rid of the fluid in the calipers since it has been subjected to all of the heat. Then use the Motive bleeder (dry).Scott
10-09-2007, 10:01 PM
#16
Tech Contributor
I leave the cap sitting loose. That way any air between the bottom of the cap and the fluid in the MC easily escapes while the fluid that squirts from compressing the pistons just hits the bottom of the cap and remains in the MC.
10-09-2007, 11:08 PM
#17
Former Vendor
Well ... perhaps I'm a candidate for the dumba$$ award ... but here's what I do:
Bleeding: crack the MC cap a quarter turn but leave it on. Top MC off with fresh fluid and keep an eye on the level as I bleed each wheel. Add fluid as needed to keep it above half.
Replacing pads: rather than pumping old fluid back into the lines, I mount a bleeder hose and crack the bleeder screws - old fluid goes out instead of back into the lines. Get the calipers bolted back on, then finish with a light bleed to ensure no air. Close bleeder and move on (making sure MC stays topped off).
Bleeding: crack the MC cap a quarter turn but leave it on. Top MC off with fresh fluid and keep an eye on the level as I bleed each wheel. Add fluid as needed to keep it above half.
Replacing pads: rather than pumping old fluid back into the lines, I mount a bleeder hose and crack the bleeder screws - old fluid goes out instead of back into the lines. Get the calipers bolted back on, then finish with a light bleed to ensure no air. Close bleeder and move on (making sure MC stays topped off).
Randy
10-10-2007, 01:12 AM
#18
Team Owner
Well ... perhaps I'm a candidate for the dumba$$ award ... but here's what I do:
Bleeding: crack the MC cap a quarter turn but leave it on. Top MC off with fresh fluid and keep an eye on the level as I bleed each wheel. Add fluid as needed to keep it above half.
Replacing pads: rather than pumping old fluid back into the lines, I mount a bleeder hose and crack the bleeder screws - old fluid goes out instead of back into the lines. Get the calipers bolted back on, then finish with a light bleed to ensure no air. Close bleeder and move on (making sure MC stays topped off).
Bleeding: crack the MC cap a quarter turn but leave it on. Top MC off with fresh fluid and keep an eye on the level as I bleed each wheel. Add fluid as needed to keep it above half.
Replacing pads: rather than pumping old fluid back into the lines, I mount a bleeder hose and crack the bleeder screws - old fluid goes out instead of back into the lines. Get the calipers bolted back on, then finish with a light bleed to ensure no air. Close bleeder and move on (making sure MC stays topped off).
I also keep the cap on but loose.
And I bleed 10 pumps rear and 15 front before every track day and when changing pads. My fluid is always bright and blue....
DH
10-10-2007, 10:36 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
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Cruise-In II Veteran
Well ... perhaps I'm a candidate for the dumba$$ award ... but here's what I do:
Bleeding: crack the MC cap a quarter turn but leave it on. Top MC off with fresh fluid and keep an eye on the level as I bleed each wheel. Add fluid as needed to keep it above half.
Replacing pads: rather than pumping old fluid back into the lines, I mount a bleeder hose and crack the bleeder screws - old fluid goes out instead of back into the lines. Get the calipers bolted back on, then finish with a light bleed to ensure no air. Close bleeder and move on (making sure MC stays topped off).
Bleeding: crack the MC cap a quarter turn but leave it on. Top MC off with fresh fluid and keep an eye on the level as I bleed each wheel. Add fluid as needed to keep it above half.
Replacing pads: rather than pumping old fluid back into the lines, I mount a bleeder hose and crack the bleeder screws - old fluid goes out instead of back into the lines. Get the calipers bolted back on, then finish with a light bleed to ensure no air. Close bleeder and move on (making sure MC stays topped off).
That is exactly what I do. The fluid in the caliper is what gets cooked the most anyway, so it is best to dump it.