Full season on C6Z06 rotors!
10-10-2007, 12:14 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Full season on C6Z06 rotors!
Just thought I would provide everyone with a REAL WORLD update on the longevity of the C6Z06 drilled rotors. You know...the ones that we all thought were pieces of crap, especially with the left only directional rotor!!?!
We'll, I ran a full season (9 days for me) WITHOUT ANY additional cooling ducts or spindal ducts. I used an assorted variety of track pads (RB700, 800, 900, Hawk DTC 60, Carbotech XP12's) throughout the year.
Not until the 9th day, did I actually crack the 1st rotor to the outer rim. This was actually the front left rotor...NOT the right!!!! I would imagine with cooling ducts, you could get some more days out of the rotors. Also, I used competition mode all year, which I could feel came on several times probably making the brakes even hotter overall.
I was pleasently suprised as I was very worried about the price of the rotors with the wrong direction and the holes and how long they would last. We'll, I would say they lasted longer than the NAPA rotors I used on my C5 that were solid!!
So, by no means am I endorsing rotors with holes, but based on actual experience, the Z's rotors are pretty darn good, holes or not!
Now, brake pad wear is another issue still...
We'll, I ran a full season (9 days for me) WITHOUT ANY additional cooling ducts or spindal ducts. I used an assorted variety of track pads (RB700, 800, 900, Hawk DTC 60, Carbotech XP12's) throughout the year.
Not until the 9th day, did I actually crack the 1st rotor to the outer rim. This was actually the front left rotor...NOT the right!!!! I would imagine with cooling ducts, you could get some more days out of the rotors. Also, I used competition mode all year, which I could feel came on several times probably making the brakes even hotter overall.
I was pleasently suprised as I was very worried about the price of the rotors with the wrong direction and the holes and how long they would last. We'll, I would say they lasted longer than the NAPA rotors I used on my C5 that were solid!!
So, by no means am I endorsing rotors with holes, but based on actual experience, the Z's rotors are pretty darn good, holes or not!
Now, brake pad wear is another issue still...
10-10-2007, 01:05 PM
#3
Safety Car
I'm hoping it's not the driver. I put new NAPA rotors on my C6, drove 3 hours to the track, and cracked the LF after 2 sessions... :-) I blame it on having way too little rebound in the rear shocks I was testing and standing the car on its nose every time I hit the brakes... yeah, that's it.
10-10-2007, 01:27 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I'm hoping it's not the driver. I put new NAPA rotors on my C6, drove 3 hours to the track, and cracked the LF after 2 sessions... :-) I blame it on having way too little rebound in the rear shocks I was testing and standing the car on its nose every time I hit the brakes... yeah, that's it.
Driver can account for much of parts wear. Like I said before, intermediate and novice drivers use more of their brakes because they tend to overbrake for corners. Avioding this, comes with experience and trust. After about 30 track days, you really start trusting your car at the limit in fast turns. You slow down to become fast, and stop jabbing the brakes at every entry zone. I personally notices after about 4 years, I started entering corners at much higher speed, rather than how MOST instructors teach novice-intermediate students (slow in, fast out).
To go fast, you need fast in and fast out. Standing the car on it's nose, is going to do nothing in way of fast lap times. I would rather back off the throttle, brake less and take the corner 10mph faster than try to threshold brake my car hyperspace.
10-10-2007, 01:34 PM
#5
Safety Car
No, your problem is that you were using NON-seasoned rotors. You need to drive them on the street a bunch of times and get them use to heat cycles before you induce a massive heat cycle on virgin rotors. Putting on new rotors and going directly to the track is a crack going to happen for sure!
10-10-2007, 02:12 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
We'll the good news is that the standard C5/6 NAPA rotors are so cheap it doesn't matter. The C6Z06 on the other hand are still over $120 per rotor as you can only get them from GM. I bought two and with tax is was almost $260!...ouch! But on the other hand, they are still cheaper than 2 peice rotors and apparently last as long, which is what I wanted to find out.
10-10-2007, 03:47 PM
#7
Team Owner
Didn't you run the Rb rotors or was it just the pads? If so how did they last? May be your getting old
Hey Matt what times are good for the double infield? I may have did it once in the fog.
Hey Matt what times are good for the double infield? I may have did it once in the fog.
10-10-2007, 07:10 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Just thought I would provide everyone with a REAL WORLD update on the longevity of the C6Z06 drilled rotors. You know...the ones that we all thought were pieces of crap, especially with the left only directional rotor!!?!
We'll, I ran a full season (9 days for me) WITHOUT ANY additional cooling ducts or spindal ducts. I used an assorted variety of track pads (RB700, 800, 900, Hawk DTC 60, Carbotech XP12's) throughout the year.
Not until the 9th day, did I actually crack the 1st rotor to the outer rim. This was actually the front left rotor...NOT the right!!!! I would imagine with cooling ducts, you could get some more days out of the rotors. Also, I used competition mode all year, which I could feel came on several times probably making the brakes even hotter overall.
I was pleasently suprised as I was very worried about the price of the rotors with the wrong direction and the holes and how long they would last. We'll, I would say they lasted longer than the NAPA rotors I used on my C5 that were solid!!
So, by no means am I endorsing rotors with holes, but based on actual experience, the Z's rotors are pretty darn good, holes or not!
Now, brake pad wear is another issue still...
We'll, I ran a full season (9 days for me) WITHOUT ANY additional cooling ducts or spindal ducts. I used an assorted variety of track pads (RB700, 800, 900, Hawk DTC 60, Carbotech XP12's) throughout the year.
Not until the 9th day, did I actually crack the 1st rotor to the outer rim. This was actually the front left rotor...NOT the right!!!! I would imagine with cooling ducts, you could get some more days out of the rotors. Also, I used competition mode all year, which I could feel came on several times probably making the brakes even hotter overall.
I was pleasently suprised as I was very worried about the price of the rotors with the wrong direction and the holes and how long they would last. We'll, I would say they lasted longer than the NAPA rotors I used on my C5 that were solid!!
So, by no means am I endorsing rotors with holes, but based on actual experience, the Z's rotors are pretty darn good, holes or not!
Now, brake pad wear is another issue still...
10-10-2007, 07:20 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
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Mine lasted all season last year. This year 4 days and they are toast. Still not cracked all the way through but look worse than the last set which lasted over 20 days.
Braking harder and more aggressive pads made a huge difference.
Braking harder and more aggressive pads made a huge difference.
10-10-2007, 09:02 PM
#10
I've run identical setups with with another C6Z06 and the other Z's stuff lasts 3-4 times longer but the lap times are significantly different.
the stock rotors last much better than you would think, much better than the crap RB puts out.BTW if your not wearing out RB pads like crap through a goose, you're coasting into turns.
10-10-2007, 11:30 PM
#12
I've done 6 days at VIR on the stock rotors. 2 with stock pads. 4 with HP+ pads. I don't do a lot of trail breaking and VIR is not as hard on breaks as many other tracks. However, I do break hard. Particulary so on days 5&6 when I was trying to explore the brake zones: going in faster and deeper(turn 14); threshold braking til ABS engagement(turn 1); trying to shift the weight and rotate the car(turn 4)...
They were perfect until after the 5th day when the fronts began showing small surface cracks around the holes. They're still fine for the street; but, I definitely need at least some spares if not replacements for the next HPDE.
I'm going to try the DBA Rotors from TireRack next. They're "only" $140 each...
They were perfect until after the 5th day when the fronts began showing small surface cracks around the holes. They're still fine for the street; but, I definitely need at least some spares if not replacements for the next HPDE.
I'm going to try the DBA Rotors from TireRack next. They're "only" $140 each...
10-11-2007, 03:16 AM
#13
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No, your problem is that you were using NON-seasoned rotors. You need to drive them on the street a bunch of times and get them use to heat cycles before you induce a massive heat cycle on virgin rotors. Putting on new rotors and going directly to the track is a crack going to happen for sure!
Driver can account for much of parts wear. Like I said before, intermediate and novice drivers use more of their brakes because they tend to overbrake for corners. Avioding this, comes with experience and trust. After about 30 track days, you really start trusting your car at the limit in fast turns. You slow down to become fast, and stop jabbing the brakes at every entry zone. I personally notices after about 4 years, I started entering corners at much higher speed, rather than how MOST instructors teach novice-intermediate students (slow in, fast out).
To go fast, you need fast in and fast out. Standing the car on it's nose, is going to do nothing in way of fast lap times. I would rather back off the throttle, brake less and take the corner 10mph faster than try to threshold brake my car hyperspace.
Driver can account for much of parts wear. Like I said before, intermediate and novice drivers use more of their brakes because they tend to overbrake for corners. Avioding this, comes with experience and trust. After about 30 track days, you really start trusting your car at the limit in fast turns. You slow down to become fast, and stop jabbing the brakes at every entry zone. I personally notices after about 4 years, I started entering corners at much higher speed, rather than how MOST instructors teach novice-intermediate students (slow in, fast out).
To go fast, you need fast in and fast out. Standing the car on it's nose, is going to do nothing in way of fast lap times. I would rather back off the throttle, brake less and take the corner 10mph faster than try to threshold brake my car hyperspace.
That is exactly what i think!
i freak out with the instructors in the car because there are allways yellin' brake! God i hate brakes lol 
fast in fast out OH YEAH BABY!
10-11-2007, 03:18 AM
#14
Le Mans Master
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I've done 6 days at VIR on the stock rotors. 2 with stock pads. 4 with HP+ pads. I don't do a lot of trail breaking and VIR is not as hard on breaks as many other tracks. However, I do break hard. Particulary so on days 5&6 when I was trying to explore the brake zones: going in faster and deeper(turn 14); threshold braking til ABS engagement(turn 1); trying to shift the weight and rotate the car(turn 4)...
They were perfect until after the 5th day when the fronts began showing small surface cracks around the holes. They're still fine for the street; but, I definitely need at least some spares if not replacements for the next HPDE.
I'm going to try the DBA Rotors from TireRack next. They're "only" $140 each...
They were perfect until after the 5th day when the fronts began showing small surface cracks around the holes. They're still fine for the street; but, I definitely need at least some spares if not replacements for the next HPDE.
I'm going to try the DBA Rotors from TireRack next. They're "only" $140 each...
10-11-2007, 10:30 AM
#15
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Don't get me wrong, I push my brakes hard, but I don't stand on them to the point that my car's nose is standing on end. I find unless you run super stiff springs, standing on the brakes 100% with stock springs doesn't help lap times, it only unsettle's the suspension, makes the rear very twitchy, and making it more difficult to properly load the suspension for the up coming corner resulting in lower corner speed.
The only time I really stand on the brakes 100% is when I approach a hairpin 30-40mph corner after a long strait. At this low speed the suspension does not need to be loaded to take the corner quickly. Hey, but we all have our own styles, and it's what works for the individual that counts. I just personally find that these Corvette's don't like to be tossed and stood on their noses to get fast lap times.
As far as the RB Pads, we'll they were more gentle on the rotors than the hawk or the carbotechs, so pad choice also has a big impact. As far as eating through pads, you can see from my original thread that in 8 track days I went through 5 sets of pads...YES 5 sets! I did find that the Hawk's and Carbotech lasted longer and worked better at the track, but are subsequently more expensive than RB.
10-11-2007, 11:49 AM
#16
Burning Brakes
No, your problem is that you were using NON-seasoned rotors. Putting on new rotors and going directly to the track is a crack going to happen for sure!
intermediate and novice drivers use more of their brakes because they tend to overbrake for corners.
I started entering corners at much higher speed, rather than how MOST instructors teach novice-intermediate students (slow in, fast out).
To go fast, you need fast in and fast out.
I would rather back off the throttle, brake less and take the corner 10mph faster than try to threshold brake my car hyperspace.
I brake hard only when required, which is not at every corner or even close.
A lot of it has to do with brake management. Meaning...don't ride them, get on and get off quickly, and let them cool down slowly, and don't use your brakes on the last lap and even when pulling in the paddock.
Don't get me wrong, I push my brakes hard, but I don't stand on them
I find unless you run super stiff springs, standing on the brakes 100% with stock springs doesn't help lap times, it only unsettle's the suspension, makes the rear very twitchy, and making it more difficult to properly load the suspension for the up coming corner resulting in lower corner speed.
The only time I really stand on the brakes 100% is when I approach a hairpin 30-40mph corner after a long strait. At this low speed the suspension does not need to be loaded to take the corner quickly.
I ran a full season (9 days for me) WITHOUT ANY additional cooling ducts or spindal ducts.
intermediate and novice drivers use more of their brakes because they tend to overbrake for corners.
I started entering corners at much higher speed, rather than how MOST instructors teach novice-intermediate students (slow in, fast out).
To go fast, you need fast in and fast out.
I would rather back off the throttle, brake less and take the corner 10mph faster than try to threshold brake my car hyperspace.
I brake hard only when required, which is not at every corner or even close.
A lot of it has to do with brake management. Meaning...don't ride them, get on and get off quickly, and let them cool down slowly, and don't use your brakes on the last lap and even when pulling in the paddock.
Don't get me wrong, I push my brakes hard, but I don't stand on them
I find unless you run super stiff springs, standing on the brakes 100% with stock springs doesn't help lap times, it only unsettle's the suspension, makes the rear very twitchy, and making it more difficult to properly load the suspension for the up coming corner resulting in lower corner speed.
The only time I really stand on the brakes 100% is when I approach a hairpin 30-40mph corner after a long strait. At this low speed the suspension does not need to be loaded to take the corner quickly.
I ran a full season (9 days for me) WITHOUT ANY additional cooling ducts or spindal ducts.
10-11-2007, 12:41 PM
#17
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
So, the purpose of the thread was to state the the stock C6Z06 rotors are actually very good in quality and did very well even without cooling ducts. Will the performance/longevity go up with ducts...probably. But again, the purpose was to provide YOU and forum members with unbiased, real evaluation of the controversial Z drilled rotors by a fairly seasoned driver. Take is as you wish
10-11-2007, 12:49 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
10-11-2007, 01:27 PM
#19
Le Mans Master
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I brake hard only when required, which is not at every corner or even close. My point is that many people think every time you brake you should threshold and that is not the case. I have done VIR, Glen, Pocono long/short, and Summit Point dozens of times. I am probably more conscious of my brakes since it is a C6Z06 and I don't want to eat through pads to simply gain a hundredth of a second. A lot of it has to do with brake management. Meaning...don't ride them, get on and get off quickly, and let them cool down slowly, and don't use your brakes on the last lap and even when pulling in the paddock.
Don't get me wrong, I push my brakes hard, but I don't stand on them to the point that my car's nose is standing on end. I find unless you run super stiff springs, standing on the brakes 100% with stock springs doesn't help lap times, it only unsettle's the suspension, makes the rear very twitchy, and making it more difficult to properly load the suspension for the up coming corner resulting in lower corner speed.
The only time I really stand on the brakes 100% is when I approach a hairpin 30-40mph corner after a long strait. At this low speed the suspension does not need to be loaded to take the corner quickly. Hey, but we all have our own styles, and it's what works for the individual that counts. I just personally find that these Corvette's don't like to be tossed and stood on their noses to get fast lap times.
As far as the RB Pads, we'll they were more gentle on the rotors than the hawk or the carbotechs, so pad choice also has a big impact. As far as eating through pads, you can see from my original thread that in 8 track days I went through 5 sets of pads...YES 5 sets! I did find that the Hawk's and Carbotech lasted longer and worked better at the track, but are subsequently more expensive than RB.
Don't get me wrong, I push my brakes hard, but I don't stand on them to the point that my car's nose is standing on end. I find unless you run super stiff springs, standing on the brakes 100% with stock springs doesn't help lap times, it only unsettle's the suspension, makes the rear very twitchy, and making it more difficult to properly load the suspension for the up coming corner resulting in lower corner speed.
The only time I really stand on the brakes 100% is when I approach a hairpin 30-40mph corner after a long strait. At this low speed the suspension does not need to be loaded to take the corner quickly. Hey, but we all have our own styles, and it's what works for the individual that counts. I just personally find that these Corvette's don't like to be tossed and stood on their noses to get fast lap times.
As far as the RB Pads, we'll they were more gentle on the rotors than the hawk or the carbotechs, so pad choice also has a big impact. As far as eating through pads, you can see from my original thread that in 8 track days I went through 5 sets of pads...YES 5 sets! I did find that the Hawk's and Carbotech lasted longer and worked better at the track, but are subsequently more expensive than RB.
10-11-2007, 01:42 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
