Well this blows...
11-13-2007, 11:04 AM
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Well this blows...
Budget blower build up started.
Kinda scary how all this is coming together so quick.
A while back cuisinartvette started talking to me about porting my heads. I said it would be nice to have everything all done so I can just bolt it in and go. He started shopping around, and found a guy selling a set of LT1 heads and intake for $300. I was just starting a new contract, but it just so happens that the guy selling them is in the same city that my contract is (Denver)
He stopped by Saturday, and I bought the heads, intake, a ported stock throttle body, and two sets of valve covers, one GM chrome for $500.
Next I PM'ed quiketz about his blower, and just happens to be out by cuisinartvette.
He checked it out last night, and I'm the new owner!
Kinda scary how all this is coming together so quick.
A while back cuisinartvette started talking to me about porting my heads. I said it would be nice to have everything all done so I can just bolt it in and go. He started shopping around, and found a guy selling a set of LT1 heads and intake for $300. I was just starting a new contract, but it just so happens that the guy selling them is in the same city that my contract is (Denver)
He stopped by Saturday, and I bought the heads, intake, a ported stock throttle body, and two sets of valve covers, one GM chrome for $500.Next I PM'ed quiketz about his blower, and just happens to be out by cuisinartvette.
He checked it out last night, and I'm the new owner!
Hi guys. I have a vortech supercharger kit for sale that fits 92-96 vettes with the lt1 or lt4 engine. It is a bolt on kit and you are able to retain your ac and all of the accessories. It uses the S trim compressor which is CARB legal. Price is $2250 and has been dropped from $2600.
The kit is highly upgraded. If you’re serious about getting a kit that works out the gate, this is it. You will not have to worry about belt slip or bleeding off boost from leaky bypass valves with this kit. The upgrades are:
- vortech mini race bypass valve (approx $250)
- 7 rib upgrade from 6 ribs
- Bracket modified for dual idler pullies which give more belt wrap ($750)
- Brand new tensioners (cost $110 from ford)
- Larger diameter inlet tubing (4” compared to 3”)
- Homemade anit rotation valve(better directs the air flow to the compressor)
- Discharge tube is drilled for dual alcohol injection nozzles
- Huge k&n air filter
All of these things are things that you’d want to do if you want to get good power out of the vortech kit. The stock kit is prone to belt slip and the stock kit doesn’t allow easy belt changes. The stock kit requires about 3-4 hours to change the blower belt and with this kit, it can be done in 15 minutes. I was getting belt slip at 6 psi with the stock setup and the new setup included here allowed for 10 psi of boost reliably and without slip. I have the kit instructions and all the little bolts bagged up.
To complete the kit, you’ll need a 255lph in tank fuel pump ($75), spark plugs a heat range colder and gapped tighter, bigger fuel injectors, and a tune to handle the spark needs and fuel needs. If you need injectors, I can offer to sell the injectors on my car which are 38’s. I’m pulling them off to install 60’s.
If you’re looking for a night and day performance difference, then this is it. This kit will reliably work on pump gas with alcohol injection and make excellent power. Even on junky 91 octance California gas, I never had a problem with detonation.
With all this work done to the kit, you’re probably asking why I’m selling it. Well, I’m selling it because I just upgraded to a vortech ysi compressor with custom bracketry and discharge tubing. Let me know if you have any questions, technical or otherwise. I can be reached at russriggs@yahoo.com . The kit is in CA and if you're local, you're more then welcome to come by and check everything out. Here's some pics of everything:
everything installed:
the head unit
here's the bracket with dual idler pullies. the tensioner pictured has been replaced since this photo was taken
more parts of the kit
here's everything else. Not pictured is the polished discharge tube that connects the blower to the throttle body. Also not shown is the polished bypass valve.
The kit is highly upgraded. If you’re serious about getting a kit that works out the gate, this is it. You will not have to worry about belt slip or bleeding off boost from leaky bypass valves with this kit. The upgrades are:
- vortech mini race bypass valve (approx $250)
- 7 rib upgrade from 6 ribs
- Bracket modified for dual idler pullies which give more belt wrap ($750)
- Brand new tensioners (cost $110 from ford)
- Larger diameter inlet tubing (4” compared to 3”)
- Homemade anit rotation valve(better directs the air flow to the compressor)
- Discharge tube is drilled for dual alcohol injection nozzles
- Huge k&n air filter
All of these things are things that you’d want to do if you want to get good power out of the vortech kit. The stock kit is prone to belt slip and the stock kit doesn’t allow easy belt changes. The stock kit requires about 3-4 hours to change the blower belt and with this kit, it can be done in 15 minutes. I was getting belt slip at 6 psi with the stock setup and the new setup included here allowed for 10 psi of boost reliably and without slip. I have the kit instructions and all the little bolts bagged up.
To complete the kit, you’ll need a 255lph in tank fuel pump ($75), spark plugs a heat range colder and gapped tighter, bigger fuel injectors, and a tune to handle the spark needs and fuel needs. If you need injectors, I can offer to sell the injectors on my car which are 38’s. I’m pulling them off to install 60’s.
If you’re looking for a night and day performance difference, then this is it. This kit will reliably work on pump gas with alcohol injection and make excellent power. Even on junky 91 octance California gas, I never had a problem with detonation.
With all this work done to the kit, you’re probably asking why I’m selling it. Well, I’m selling it because I just upgraded to a vortech ysi compressor with custom bracketry and discharge tubing. Let me know if you have any questions, technical or otherwise. I can be reached at russriggs@yahoo.com . The kit is in CA and if you're local, you're more then welcome to come by and check everything out. Here's some pics of everything:
everything installed:
the head unit
here's the bracket with dual idler pullies. the tensioner pictured has been replaced since this photo was taken
more parts of the kit
here's everything else. Not pictured is the polished discharge tube that connects the blower to the throttle body. Also not shown is the polished bypass valve.
Last edited by BrianCunningham; 09-09-2009 at 02:11 PM.
11-13-2007, 11:22 AM
#2
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Congratulations, Brian. Keep us updated on construction and results. A word of caution. There's a segment of the forum who thinks that turbocharging/supercharging is death on wheels and can't be made to operate reliably on a road course. Just ignore them. (Those that can, DO. Those that can't, just bitch at the rest of us.) 
11-13-2007, 01:51 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Congrats Brian, as others have stated boost is often frowned on for road course duty. But look how many racing series use (or have used) boost over the years, and even some of the other examples of supremely track worthy boosted street cars (Exige S comes to mind, but also my housemates factory twin turbo FD RX7). It's all about a good tune and lots of cooling. If you don't already have a bigger radiator (which I bet you do) you might want to look into one. And if I'm not mistaken the Vortech kit uses engine oil for the head unit, correct? So again, if you don't have an oil cooler already its probalby a great idea.
On a non-intercooled kit like that I'd keep the boost pretty low also. The seller's post mentions 10psi, w/o an intercooler for road course duty I'd probably back that down to the "stock" 6 psi. If the alky is tuned well and your alky tank can provide for a full 25 min (or whatever you run) session you could try higher psi. But I think 6psi should be safe with a proper tune and cooling and still provide a marked HP increase. Also, if your longblock is stock 6psi is a pretty safe ceiling as well, regardless of alky.
Have fun with it!!!
-TJ
On a non-intercooled kit like that I'd keep the boost pretty low also. The seller's post mentions 10psi, w/o an intercooler for road course duty I'd probably back that down to the "stock" 6 psi. If the alky is tuned well and your alky tank can provide for a full 25 min (or whatever you run) session you could try higher psi. But I think 6psi should be safe with a proper tune and cooling and still provide a marked HP increase. Also, if your longblock is stock 6psi is a pretty safe ceiling as well, regardless of alky.
Have fun with it!!!
-TJ
11-13-2007, 03:08 PM
#8
Safety Car
11-19-2007, 05:27 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
I know of very few people successfully running superchargers on road courses. They typically run hot, and aren't as efficient as turbos.
It can be done, but man it's going to be a chore until you get it perfected... As someone else said, Keep a supply of belts on hand, along with Tclamps and hoses...
Mike
It can be done, but man it's going to be a chore until you get it perfected... As someone else said, Keep a supply of belts on hand, along with Tclamps and hoses...
Mike
11-19-2007, 10:08 PM
#13
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I've already got the bigger radiator which is rated for the HP I should be making, and I'll be adding a large oil cooler, which I'll run a separate duct for. I might vent to hood, which will not only keep it cool but help with downforce, but I'm going to try keeping it stock looking for now.
BTW SuperL98 chimed in on my engine mods thread
Keep in mind this is crank hp, and I need to factor in the hp needed to spin the blower.
Thanks man that's just what I needed.
I'm liking those #'s
Looks like I'll have to weigh in the smaller boost of the 290, which will be good at keeping the engine alive, and hp is what I want not boost, vs the more easily tuned 276 cam.
BTW SuperL98 chimed in on my engine mods thread
Keep in mind this is crank hp, and I need to factor in the hp needed to spin the blower.
Ok, the base setup for these is the stock lt1 block.
Ported LT1 heads from above (stock valves).
1.75 headers with 26 inch pipes.
58mm throttle.
7 inch crank and 3 inch super C pulley.
First is the stock cam
Second is CC LT1 276HR-14, 220/230, .510/.510, 114
Third is CC LT1 290HR-12, 230/244, .510/.540, 112
In the real world the Comp Cam's probably have a little advance ground in but I put them in straight up for now.
Not to dramatic a difference between these two.
BTW the boost @ 6000 was 9psi = Stk cam 8.2 = 276cam 7.7 = 290cam
Your going to see the boost drop as the engine breaths better...
I'll check back in, if you want any changes & can post detailed info on your final combination ... if you want to see it.
Ported LT1 heads from above (stock valves).
1.75 headers with 26 inch pipes.
58mm throttle.
7 inch crank and 3 inch super C pulley.
First is the stock cam
Second is CC LT1 276HR-14, 220/230, .510/.510, 114
Third is CC LT1 290HR-12, 230/244, .510/.540, 112
In the real world the Comp Cam's probably have a little advance ground in but I put them in straight up for now.
Not to dramatic a difference between these two.
BTW the boost @ 6000 was 9psi = Stk cam 8.2 = 276cam 7.7 = 290cam
Your going to see the boost drop as the engine breaths better...
I'll check back in, if you want any changes & can post detailed info on your final combination ... if you want to see it.
I'm liking those #'s
Looks like I'll have to weigh in the smaller boost of the 290, which will be good at keeping the engine alive, and hp is what I want not boost, vs the more easily tuned 276 cam.
11-20-2007, 05:30 PM
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More info...
guess I'll be needing a stronger clutch! 
guess I'll be needing a stronger clutch! Found a cam card for these and they run 4 deg advanced.
Put in a realistic "street" exhaust @ 800 cfm.
Backed down the timing to keep the "knock index" down to recommended 2.0.
Final Combination:
Stock LT1 bottom end, electric water pump (no alt, ac comp, ps etc - can't add them in)
Vortech S1, 7 and 3 inch pullies, H20 injection (80% eff intercooler)
1.75 headers 26 inch primaries
800 cfm exhaust (getting 3 psi back pressure - so bigger is better but louder
58mm throttle, stock LT1 manifold
Used 44 lbs nozzles @ 45 psi
LT1 heads ported as above, 10.4 comp (probably should lower this?)
Comp Cams 276hr-14 and 290hr-12 with 1.6 rockers.
Think that's most of it....
Put in a realistic "street" exhaust @ 800 cfm.
Backed down the timing to keep the "knock index" down to recommended 2.0.
Final Combination:
Stock LT1 bottom end, electric water pump (no alt, ac comp, ps etc - can't add them in)
Vortech S1, 7 and 3 inch pullies, H20 injection (80% eff intercooler)
1.75 headers 26 inch primaries
800 cfm exhaust (getting 3 psi back pressure - so bigger is better but louder
58mm throttle, stock LT1 manifold
Used 44 lbs nozzles @ 45 psi
LT1 heads ported as above, 10.4 comp (probably should lower this?)
Comp Cams 276hr-14 and 290hr-12 with 1.6 rockers.
Think that's most of it....
Last edited by BrianCunningham; 11-20-2007 at 05:34 PM.
11-21-2007, 05:15 AM
#15
Le Mans Master
Congratulations, Brian. Keep us updated on construction and results. A word of caution. There's a segment of the forum who thinks that turbocharging/supercharging is death on wheels and can't be made to operate reliably on a road course. Just ignore them. (Those that can, DO. Those that can't, just bitch at the rest of us.)
.Cooling and spare parts....
11-24-2007, 03:16 AM
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Cuisinart found a machinist out here that does so much volume, he can get me a complete balanced rotating assembly rods, pistons and crank for ANY stroke at a great price.
Looks like it will be a blown stroker!
More toys, $300 for a B&B 3in exhaust!
Looks like it will be a blown stroker!
More toys, $300 for a B&B 3in exhaust!
Brian Cuningham flew out to hang out for a few days to cehck out some parts weve picked up for his build and hang out here to get out of the Denver cold. My place looks like an auto parts store. Heads, intake, blower, motor parts, and now a B&B exhaust a (new) member andrew_huh brought over.
11-26-2007, 08:20 PM
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Latest graph
Looks like 383 is definitely the way to go
Looks like 383 is definitely the way to go
Yes .. I can
First chance I've had to look back at this, been to busy
I worked on the model a bit more, dropped the head flow down a little because it looked high compared to most posted numbers.
Also pushed on the Vortech model after running some chevy and ford combinations I found posted.
Anyway here is a 350 vs. 383, everthing the same as the last model except a little less head flow and a different VS-1 model, using 290 cam (4.03 bore, 3.75 st, 6 inch rod on the 383)...
I also ran two similar LT1 S-Trim combinations I found on the net.
One 350 6 psi no intercooler, and one 355 15 psi w/intercooler.
Looks like we match the power curve shapes and peaks pretty good!
And if you subtract 15% or so, the HP matches the RWHP pretty good as well
First chance I've had to look back at this, been to busy
I worked on the model a bit more, dropped the head flow down a little because it looked high compared to most posted numbers.
Also pushed on the Vortech model after running some chevy and ford combinations I found posted.
Anyway here is a 350 vs. 383, everthing the same as the last model except a little less head flow and a different VS-1 model, using 290 cam (4.03 bore, 3.75 st, 6 inch rod on the 383)...
I also ran two similar LT1 S-Trim combinations I found on the net.
One 350 6 psi no intercooler, and one 355 15 psi w/intercooler.
Looks like we match the power curve shapes and peaks pretty good!
And if you subtract 15% or so, the HP matches the RWHP pretty good as well
12-05-2007, 08:42 PM
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I had Ron port the stock heads I bought.
That way we have a record of everything done.
They had to clean the heads before flowing them,
so 84k miles worth of crud wouldn't clog up the flow bench.
Thanks to Ron for getting that done, man they cleaned up nice
This will both end of lot of debates, and start many more.
peaked at .400 lift!
Makes you wonder about putting big rockers on stock heads.
That way we have a record of everything done.
They had to clean the heads before flowing them,
so 84k miles worth of crud wouldn't clog up the flow bench.
Brian Cunninghams heads freshly soda blasted and flowed...
Very similar to the #s pulled off the web, never hurts to double check it.
Heads and intake will be ported and the flowed (again) seaprately and together. Just for reference. Odd intake port shape.....
Ive seen #s printed out here but no charts yet, just curious.
Very similar to the #s pulled off the web, never hurts to double check it.
Heads and intake will be ported and the flowed (again) seaprately and together. Just for reference. Odd intake port shape.....
Ive seen #s printed out here but no charts yet, just curious.
This will both end of lot of debates, and start many more.
peaked at .400 lift!
Makes you wonder about putting big rockers on stock heads.
12-20-2007, 09:18 AM
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Ron started porting my heads yesterday.
Here's an intake port.
Keep in mind that these are a work in progress, and he hasn't finished the port yet.
He's even porting the oil return holes for me
checkout how the stock guides are NOT centered in the casting
Still trying to figure out what that step on the backside is.
Here's an intake port.
Keep in mind that these are a work in progress, and he hasn't finished the port yet.
He's even porting the oil return holes for me
checkout how the stock guides are NOT centered in the casting
Still trying to figure out what that step on the backside is.