Active handling and racing
#1
Burning Brakes
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Active handling and racing
As a result of seeing my active handling flashing on and off from time to time, I took it to the dealer today to have it checked. THey ended up pulling 18 codes in my history. My question is, can all the racing I did in the past cause that? I never used AH in any of my autox or track days, I turn them completely off. I found it strange to have 18 codes when the car runs fine. Any idea?
Symtoms are, active handling light and service handling message kicks in from time to time. Doesnt stay on after restarts, runs fine after.
THe dealer told me to drive it for a week and bring it back so they can see what codes are there.
This is an 05 C6 Z51
Symtoms are, active handling light and service handling message kicks in from time to time. Doesnt stay on after restarts, runs fine after.
THe dealer told me to drive it for a week and bring it back so they can see what codes are there.
This is an 05 C6 Z51
#2
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Then look at the back side of the bearing for cracks. I bet you will find big ones.
#5
Drifting
Time to change your wheel bearings. I get all those codes right before the bearing goes out. My guess most of the wires to the AH sensors are just about melted causing crossed connection once in a while.
Then look at the back side of the bearing for cracks. I bet you will find big ones.
Then look at the back side of the bearing for cracks. I bet you will find big ones.
I see codes nearly each time I race but not daily in between events. I'll have to take a closer look at the wires and pull a wheel or four.
Thanks for the heads-up.
--Dan
#6
steve
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I've never had a Vette hub apart. Where do you see the cracks? Is it in the races, the bearing retainer or the rollers themselves?
I see codes nearly each time I race but not daily in between events. I'll have to take a closer look at the wires and pull a wheel or four.
Thanks for the heads-up.
--Dan
I see codes nearly each time I race but not daily in between events. I'll have to take a closer look at the wires and pull a wheel or four.
Thanks for the heads-up.
--Dan
Take the front wheels off, turn the the brake rotor / hub so you can look behind the bearing. Take off the brake rotor too. use a flashlight and look for hair line cracks around the flange. Front and back.
Check the wires. Many times there is so much heat generated that the insulation on the wires melts causing occasional electrical shorts.
All those codes may also just be dirty connections. Take apart the ABS wires, clean the socket and reconect. I did this a few times and the codes went away for quite a while.
Then all of a suden the codes would not leave or be reset. took everything apart and found a cracked flange on the bearing. So I replaced all four.
#8
Melting Slicks
You probably won't see cracks or anything like that. Normally you will hear a "groan" coming from other than the passenger seat - those are the wheel bearings.
Generally speaking, you'll need to replace them all once a year, especially if you are using racing tires. You can probably get two years using street tires. Any more than that, consider yourself very fortunate.
Those things are really flaky. They can just go bad on you and start throwing codes. Once you start hearing that groan or growl coming from a corner, just go ahead and replace it.
Generally speaking, you'll need to replace them all once a year, especially if you are using racing tires. You can probably get two years using street tires. Any more than that, consider yourself very fortunate.
Those things are really flaky. They can just go bad on you and start throwing codes. Once you start hearing that groan or growl coming from a corner, just go ahead and replace it.
#9
You probably won't see cracks or anything like that. Normally you will hear a "groan" coming from other than the passenger seat - those are the wheel bearings.
Generally speaking, you'll need to replace them all once a year, especially if you are using racing tires. You can probably get two years using street tires. Any more than that, consider yourself very fortunate.
Those things are really flaky. They can just go bad on you and start throwing codes. Once you start hearing that groan or growl coming from a corner, just go ahead and replace it.
Generally speaking, you'll need to replace them all once a year, especially if you are using racing tires. You can probably get two years using street tires. Any more than that, consider yourself very fortunate.
Those things are really flaky. They can just go bad on you and start throwing codes. Once you start hearing that groan or growl coming from a corner, just go ahead and replace it.
Thanks, Geoff
#10
Melting Slicks
That's been my experience with the C5s. But, from what I understand, the C6 bearings are the same. As soon as Phoenix finishes my hot rod and I start racing it, I'll let you know how they do.
#11
Melting Slicks
This might be a function of how hard you push and folks new to the
track don't push hard. They may think it's pushing but really until you
get a few years experience you probably aren't going that fast. I've
got a C5 coupe with 74k miles, over 100 track days in 4.5 years on
track out of the 6 years I've owned it. One rear wheel bearing went
bad at around 55k miles, the rest are fine so far. I did find that the
torx 55 bolts holding the hub on weren't all tight to spec when MSI
did new brake lines about 2 years ago. Just another perspective.
Randy
track don't push hard. They may think it's pushing but really until you
get a few years experience you probably aren't going that fast. I've
got a C5 coupe with 74k miles, over 100 track days in 4.5 years on
track out of the 6 years I've owned it. One rear wheel bearing went
bad at around 55k miles, the rest are fine so far. I did find that the
torx 55 bolts holding the hub on weren't all tight to spec when MSI
did new brake lines about 2 years ago. Just another perspective.
Randy