Brett Richmond

I have a 16 ft trailer like this one



I do not have any place to attach straps to the rear because of my side exhaust hangers are in the rear tie down points


Should I buy the straps that go over the rear wheels or is there a different place to attach straps at??

John Shiels

I would guess over the tires is best now. Some C4 racers may know better.

96CollectorSport

Go around the camber rods. I have done this for years without a problem.

Jeffvette

Grab the batwing instead since you have the rear tie down holes covered up.

John Shiels

whats a bat wing?

Carolina C4 Racer

The back part of the rear end assembly.
It sort of resembles a "batwing" if you have a really good imagination.

John Shiels

I do have a good imagination so I'll look at my GS in the morning after I clear all the crap around from it May be by noon I'll see it

astock165

I would recommend using smaller washers for your exhaust hanger to open up the area left in the factory tie down. Then use a closable link like this:



to create a new hook on point in that same location. I don't have exhaust hangers on mine but do use links like that at all four factory tie down points with good results.

c4cruiser

Something that I noticed with the rear tie-down points on my 87 is that they sit up fairly high and to the inside of the suspension components.

I tried using my ratchtet straps on those points, but the strap would bind on the lower control arms once I connected the other end of the straps to the trailer D-rings and snugged them up

My trailer has a 2 foot long dovetail that drops about 8" and the rear D-rings are at the outside corners of the trailer frame. Even with that angle, the straps would still rub on the control arms. Tightening the straps would cause the control arms to raise up effectively taking weight off the rear tires.

I Fyo uuse the links, make sure they have the weight carrying capacity you need. 1/2" stainless steel links will handle 3300 lbs (working load limit) each. Don't go with anything smaller.

BrianCunningham

The batwing is the truss attached to the diff.

astock165

Good point, that's what I use and forgot to mention that. :o

RAFTeRACER

I don't have any pics of mine, but Dale at Tach it up motorsports has plates available that replace the rear spring retainers with one piece that holds the spring and gives you a bitchen easy access tie down point as well as a much needed rear jacking location. This is a quality well thought out piece. www.tachitupmotorsports.com

Brett Richmond

If these work, how do you avoid the straps hitting any part of the suspension on the rear?? I looked at mine and it seems even if I put these on the rear, the straps would still contact the rear suspension.
Any ideas on how to protect the straps from the suspension??

astock165

Honestly, I don't worry too much about the straps hitting the links in the rear, I don't think it's a huge issue.

You could use a rag or some pipe insulation wrapped around either the link(s) or the straps if you want something between the two. If you do that and see that there isn't much wear on whatever you've used ... that tells you it may not be necessary. If there is wear, obviously it is.

Z07coupe

Use a flat hook on the bottom shock mount. Cross your rear straps.

Coupe89

I've used these. Just use the factory hooks then put this items in to tie it down

Brett Richmond

I have these for the front but they will not fit in the rear because of my exhaust hangers. Hence the help from everyone else.

c4cruiser

I don't have pics of my car strpped down on my trailer but here's what I do.

I have Grade 43 anchor shackles attached to the front tiedown loops similar to these (I use red Loctite and safety wire to hold the pin in place (you can also use the closable link as shown above (use 1/2" stainless steel)

My ratchet straps are 8' long, 2" wide and have a 10,000 lb capacity which equals a 3300 lb working load limit and have twisted snap hooks. Thsese hooks keep the strap from having any twists. My front straps easily clear the front suspension as the car is not lowered.

At the rear of the car, I still have my Reese trailer hitch attached so I drilled two 1/2" holes at the forward ends of the hitch frame and attached two more shackles there. I cross the straps at the rear and connect to D-rings at the rear corners of the trailer. Doing it this way keeps the straps from touching any part of the car and puts just enough downforce on the rear suspension to keep the car from bouncing.

The front straps are so low (5" rise in 7 feet) that they provide a pulling force against the car and the rear straps.

Although the rear frame portion of C4's are aluminum, you might see if a welding shop could weld some brackets or rings to the frame so that you can attach straps. I had removed the spare tire and carrier from my car so the rear frame is clearly open and it would be easy to put some sort of tie-down along the rails.

I'm not a fan of attaching straps directly to any suspension component. They are not designed to handle pulling forces as you would get from a strap. I get my straps tight when the car is loaded on the trailer and check and re-tighten them after 20-30 miles of driving.