Staggered wheels vs. square setup?
#1
Drifting
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Staggered wheels vs. square setup?
As I continue my hunt for a set of racing wheels, I'm struck with the observation that my C5 comes stock with staggered wheel sizes (17" front, 18" rear) and I began to think, why is that?
I know from experience that smaller front tires offer quicker turn in, and depending on alignment, gives quicker rotation through turns. But, for budget minded racing, a "square" setup (just learned what that phrase means ) is more cost effective. What drawbacks (if any) is there to a square setup, and can it be tuned out?
Wondering,
Jamie
I know from experience that smaller front tires offer quicker turn in, and depending on alignment, gives quicker rotation through turns. But, for budget minded racing, a "square" setup (just learned what that phrase means ) is more cost effective. What drawbacks (if any) is there to a square setup, and can it be tuned out?
Wondering,
Jamie
#2
"AlohaC5" Senior Member
There are absolutely NO drawbacks to a "square setup". I've seen mostly 17" or 18" square setups on the road courses (HPDE). You can get a great deal on OE Wheels ZR-1 Replicas 17x9.5 and 17x11, which support many tire manufacturer options, or you move up to 18" square (which is what I run) on CCW wheels 18x11 amd 18x12 without modifications. You could also run 315 all around and rotate them for better wear, etc. There are many options out there for you depending on what your budget will allow. Mike
Last edited by Gray Ghost GS; 12-08-2007 at 06:36 PM.
#3
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As I continue my hunt for a set of racing wheels, I'm struck with the observation that my C5 comes stock with staggered wheel sizes (17" front, 18" rear) and I began to think, why is that?
I know from experience that smaller front tires offer quicker turn in, and depending on alignment, gives quicker rotation through turns. But, for budget minded racing, a "square" setup (just learned what that phrase means ) is more cost effective. What drawbacks (if any) is there to a square setup, and can it be tuned out?
Wondering,
Jamie
I know from experience that smaller front tires offer quicker turn in, and depending on alignment, gives quicker rotation through turns. But, for budget minded racing, a "square" setup (just learned what that phrase means ) is more cost effective. What drawbacks (if any) is there to a square setup, and can it be tuned out?
Wondering,
Jamie
#4
There are absolutely NO drawbacks to a "square setup". I've seen mostly 17" or 18" square setups on the road courses (HPDE). You can get a great deal on OE Wheels ZR-1 Replicas 17x9.5 and 17x11, which support many tire manufacturer options, or you move up to 18" square (which is what I run) on CCW wheels 18x11 amd 18x12 without modifications. You could also run 315 all around and rotate them for better wear, etc. There are many options out there for you depending on what your budget will allow. Mike
What size tires are you running on those 18x11's and 18x12's??
#5
"AlohaC5" Senior Member
#6
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As I continue my hunt for a set of racing wheels, I'm struck with the observation that my C5 comes stock with staggered wheel sizes (17" front, 18" rear) and I began to think, why is that?
I know from experience that smaller front tires offer quicker turn in, and depending on alignment, gives quicker rotation through turns. But, for budget minded racing, a "square" setup (just learned what that phrase means ) is more cost effective. What drawbacks (if any) is there to a square setup, and can it be tuned out?
Wondering,
Jamie
I know from experience that smaller front tires offer quicker turn in, and depending on alignment, gives quicker rotation through turns. But, for budget minded racing, a "square" setup (just learned what that phrase means ) is more cost effective. What drawbacks (if any) is there to a square setup, and can it be tuned out?
Wondering,
Jamie
i luv it ! and recommend v710 Khumos!
#8
"AlohaC5" Senior Member
My wheel alignment is a street and track setup - a compromise since I drive my vette to work and want to avoid excessive tire wear. I run -1.6 Front and -1.1 Rear. You will find some that run their camber as high as -2.1 Front.
#9
Drifting
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UPDATE:
I picked up a full set of ZO6 rear's (18x10.5's) and the big brown truck dropped off a set of Dunlop slicks scrubs I also bought! total: $1200!
The Dunlops are: 280/660-18's which roughly translates to 285/30-18's. Thanks to Bob Chick for the great deal, and the lesson in care and feeding of my new slicks!
Mac
I picked up a full set of ZO6 rear's (18x10.5's) and the big brown truck dropped off a set of Dunlop slicks scrubs I also bought! total: $1200!
The Dunlops are: 280/660-18's which roughly translates to 285/30-18's. Thanks to Bob Chick for the great deal, and the lesson in care and feeding of my new slicks!
Mac
#10
Drifting
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Cruise-In VI Veteran
UPDATE:
I picked up a full set of ZO6 rear's (18x10.5's) and the big brown truck dropped off a set of Dunlop slicks scrubs I also bought! total: $1200!
The Dunlops are: 280/660-18's which roughly translates to 285/30-18's. Thanks to Bob Chick for the great deal, and the lesson in care and feeding of my new slicks!
Mac
I picked up a full set of ZO6 rear's (18x10.5's) and the big brown truck dropped off a set of Dunlop slicks scrubs I also bought! total: $1200!
The Dunlops are: 280/660-18's which roughly translates to 285/30-18's. Thanks to Bob Chick for the great deal, and the lesson in care and feeding of my new slicks!
Mac
Bob
Last edited by Kanmer; 02-05-2008 at 08:30 AM. Reason: to add pic
#12
Race Director
Sq here.......OEM 18 x 9.5 magnesium wheels running hoosier 275s
#16
Drifting
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Well, the nut behind the wheel always needs tweaking, but that's not what made me go with a square setup. It's the cost benefits of running the same size at all four corners that sold me. I can rotate front to back and side to side for the full life of the tires, or until I kill them with heat cycling. A fresh set of Hoosiers would have run me about the same price as buying the wheels and tires did. Saving the racing budget allows me more seat time (aka tweaking the nut behind the wheel).
#17
Former Vendor
Well, the nut behind the wheel always needs tweaking, but that's not what made me go with a square setup. It's the cost benefits of running the same size at all four corners that sold me. I can rotate front to back and side to side for the full life of the tires, or until I kill them with heat cycling. A fresh set of Hoosiers would have run me about the same price as buying the wheels and tires did. Saving the racing budget allows me more seat time (aka tweaking the nut behind the wheel).
Randy
#18
Instructor
It was the best thing I ever did IMO, car is very neutral.
To answer a posters question as to how I got them on a C6, with a jack and lug wrench. But seriously, I called John at CCW and talked to him and went with the specs I thought would work for me. I do have some rub issues at full lock with the inner fender and the inner part of the outer fender if the course is VERY bumpy, but I am quite willing to sacrifice both of those areas to go fast.
#19
I just purchased CCW 18x11's for the front. However, I'm going to stay with 295/30-18's for now. But, I'm "square:" the rears are 295/30-19's. I'm going to start out with -1.5 deg. front camber and -1.0 deg. rear.
#20
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I'm in the square camp as well using z06 rears and 305 tires. Started this way for the economics (rotation, scrubs, used wheels) but found I really like the way the car feels.
I have a C5 but I've seen several C6 drivers with the same setup.
John
I have a C5 but I've seen several C6 drivers with the same setup.
John