Poppy's Vette

So, I wanted to get a slightly more track oriented alignment and went in with target specs based on input from many of you here. Here's my results:

Before:

LF RF LR RR
0 .50 .50 0 Camber
8.25+ 8.00+ Caster
1/8 in 0 Toe

After:

LF RF LR RR
1.75- 1.75- 0.85- 0.85- Camber
7.25+ 7.75+ Caster
0 1/8 in Toe

I was shooting for more negative camber in the rears, 1.25-, but the RR cam for setting Camber was maxed out at 0.85-. He could have gotten more on the LR. Anyone else found this? Is it normal? There was plenty of adjustment available in the LR but not the RR.

Anyway, it feels great on the highway. It may be that I was looking for change but I would swear it is more responsive than the factory alignment but still rock solid. I have a track day coming up on Wednesday so I will get to see how it feels on the track.

Next mod will be wheels and tires. I think after much debate and research, my only solution will be to fork out the money for some CCWs. I think I want the Classics in 18s for all 4 corners. I haven't had any communications with CCW yet but I assume they can build them with proper offset to fit perfectly with no rubbing. I was hoping for 18x9 to 10 in front and 18x10 to 11 in the rear and I'll run Toyo RA1's.

gkmccready

I run 18x11 CCW Corsairs all around on my '06 Z51 car. Toyo R888s. 295/30r18 and 305/35r18. My alignment is very similar to yours. If you want clearance up front "for sure" run 18x10 and 275s instead.

If you think you might start running bigger brakes up front (ie. better calipers) you will probably want to look at the Corsairs rather than the Classics as they offer a lot more clearance.

John or Chip at CCW will steer you the right direction, though.

gonzalezfj

What car? Can't tell from the picture. If it's a C6 Coupe, you are stuck with the camber adjustment you get from the eccentric in the rear.

If it's a C6Z (and also in the front of the Coupe or Z) there are two washers between the upper control arm attachment bolts and the frame. These washers can be removed to get additional negative camber. In my C6Z I can get more than -2 degrees of camber in the rear and -2.8 in the front with all washers removed.

Most Vettes are somewhat asymmetrical, in that you can get more camber on one side than in the other. Normal and nothing to worry about. It is just the stack-up of tolerances in the frame and crossmembers.

Frank Gonzalez

Poppy's Vette

Sorry, it isn't clear from my post or my avatar but it's a coupe. I also don't see larger brakes going on it. I track it maybe 8 events a year, 10 tops. And I don't drive it hard enough to be unhappy with the brakes that are on it. I may play with pads but other than that, they are worlds better than the brakes on my last car.

Thanks for the feedback.

emf

Sounds like the cradle is lopsided. There's usually a bit of wiggle if the bolts are loosened, which would let one side get a bit more than the other when tightened. It's somewhat common to see a little out, but it's usually not too far off. Usually not enough to worry about in the grand scheme of things.

gonzalezfj

The cradle is located on to the frame by two locating pins. Then it is held in place by four studs and nuts.

If you loosen the nuts, the cradle can shift sideways a few thousands on the pins. This is usually enough to bring the cradle into perfect alignment with the frame, if the deviation bothers you. For all practical purposes, it means nothing.

Frank Gonzalez

RAFTRACER

There is more than a "few" thousandths in those pins and holes..........

Typically the left rear is camber challenged, and the front varies to which side the cradle is shifted. The front is typically not a problem , but the rear can be. I like my cars to be as symmetrical as possible though so I usually take the effort to make things perfect as possible.

gonzalezfj

Agreed, Danny. Symmetrical is good, and it's more than a few thousands. I just didn't want to give the impression that you can shift the cradle 1/2 inch or something like that.

Best wishes,

Frank Gonzalez

rustyguns

TedDBere

Frank, I still think you have too much rear negative camber in that monster. It's hard enough to get the power down but with less rear tire on the ground it's even harder, IMHO. I bet if you went to -1.2 or -1.4 in the rear you'd get more bite. FWIW

gonzalezfj

It's always a compromise, Scott. In autoX I need the cornering grip more than I need the straight-ahead grip.

Frank Gonzalez