Z06 Front Wheel Hub ????
12-11-2007, 07:45 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Location: KADS- If it has wings or an engine, I can break it. Dallas TX
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Z06 Front Wheel Hub ????
Hi guys,
It appears that the front wheel bearings/hubs are going bad on the right side. I was replacing brake pads and had unusall wear patterns. The inside pad was worn almost to metal on the bottom, the outer pad was worn excessivly on the top. I noticed that the outer edge of the tire was worn a lot more than the outer edge of the left front.
I couldn't feel any play in the bearing, but that seems to be the only way to explain the wear.
My car is a 2003 with 25,000 miles. About 2 dozen autox and about 8 or 9 track days.
What is the autozone Timken part #?
Do they come with wheel studs?
If not, are you guys re-using your old wheel studs or is it easier to buy new ones? Are they pressed in by a machine shop? or can you use a wheel lug nut and a stack of washer to "press the studs in"?
Is it necessary to remove the upper ball joint? It seems that removing the lower ball joint would provide access to the lower hub bolt.
I assume you support the lower control arm with a jack while un-bolting the 3 hub bolts.
Is it necessary to unbolt the sway bar?
Are the hub bolts Torx T-55 size?
Any other tips or tricks would be helpful.
TIA, Robert Lewis
It appears that the front wheel bearings/hubs are going bad on the right side. I was replacing brake pads and had unusall wear patterns. The inside pad was worn almost to metal on the bottom, the outer pad was worn excessivly on the top. I noticed that the outer edge of the tire was worn a lot more than the outer edge of the left front.
I couldn't feel any play in the bearing, but that seems to be the only way to explain the wear.
My car is a 2003 with 25,000 miles. About 2 dozen autox and about 8 or 9 track days.
What is the autozone Timken part #?
Do they come with wheel studs?
If not, are you guys re-using your old wheel studs or is it easier to buy new ones? Are they pressed in by a machine shop? or can you use a wheel lug nut and a stack of washer to "press the studs in"?
Is it necessary to remove the upper ball joint? It seems that removing the lower ball joint would provide access to the lower hub bolt.
I assume you support the lower control arm with a jack while un-bolting the 3 hub bolts.
Is it necessary to unbolt the sway bar?
Are the hub bolts Torx T-55 size?
Any other tips or tricks would be helpful.
TIA, Robert Lewis
Last edited by 2K3Z06; 12-11-2007 at 07:54 PM.
12-11-2007, 08:22 PM
#2
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Location: Lewisville TX
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Hi guys,
It appears that the front wheel bearings/hubs are going bad on the right side. I was replacing brake pads and had unusall wear patterns. The inside pad was worn almost to metal on the bottom, the outer pad was worn excessivly on the top. I noticed that the outer edge of the tire was worn a lot more than the outer edge of the left front.
I couldn't feel any play in the bearing, but that seems to be the only way to explain the wear.
My car is a 2003 with 25,000 miles. About 2 dozen autox and about 8 or 9 track days.
What is the autozone Timken part #?
Do they come with wheel studs?
If not, are you guys re-using your old wheel studs or is it easier to buy new ones? Are they pressed in by a machine shop? or can you use a wheel lug nut and a stack of washer to "press the studs in"?
Is it necessary to remove the upper ball joint? It seems that removing the lower ball joint would provide access to the lower hub bolt.
I assume you support the lower control arm with a jack while un-bolting the 3 hub bolts.
Is it necessary to unbolt the sway bar?
Are the hub bolts Torx T-55 size?
Any other tips or tricks would be helpful.
TIA, Robert Lewis
It appears that the front wheel bearings/hubs are going bad on the right side. I was replacing brake pads and had unusall wear patterns. The inside pad was worn almost to metal on the bottom, the outer pad was worn excessivly on the top. I noticed that the outer edge of the tire was worn a lot more than the outer edge of the left front.
I couldn't feel any play in the bearing, but that seems to be the only way to explain the wear.
My car is a 2003 with 25,000 miles. About 2 dozen autox and about 8 or 9 track days.
What is the autozone Timken part #?
Do they come with wheel studs?
If not, are you guys re-using your old wheel studs or is it easier to buy new ones? Are they pressed in by a machine shop? or can you use a wheel lug nut and a stack of washer to "press the studs in"?
Is it necessary to remove the upper ball joint? It seems that removing the lower ball joint would provide access to the lower hub bolt.
I assume you support the lower control arm with a jack while un-bolting the 3 hub bolts.
Is it necessary to unbolt the sway bar?
Are the hub bolts Torx T-55 size?
Any other tips or tricks would be helpful.
TIA, Robert Lewis
The torx bolts are a T55, and make sure to use red loctite on them when going back together with them.
Most new bearings are going to have wheel studs already in them, at least the GM units do.
You will have to take the lower ball joint loose to get the socket in to remove the bottom wheel bearing bolt. The upper joint can stay together.
12-11-2007, 08:56 PM
#3
Safety Car
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Location: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
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The Autozone Timken part number for the front hubs is 513139. Just completed the swap out of both my fronts. They come with stock size and length studs pre installed. If you want to use ARP race studs or something similar you will have to press them out and press in the new ones. Find someone with a press to install the new studs - the stack of washers and lug nut process is a big PITA ! Proper seating of the stud is critical !!
12-17-2007, 07:24 PM
#5
The Autozone Timken part number for the front hubs is 513139. Just completed the swap out of both my fronts. They come with stock size and length studs pre installed. If you want to use ARP race studs or something similar you will have to press them out and press in the new ones. Find someone with a press to install the new studs - the stack of washers and lug nut process is a big PITA ! Proper seating of the stud is critical !!
Thanks
Phil
