HPDE Questions- 2001 Z06 - Rotors/Pads/Tires/Bearings
12-18-2007, 02:37 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
HPDE Questions- 2001 Z06 - Rotors/Pads/Tires/Bearings
Hey!
Been reading all of the HPDE and parts/recommendation threads. I have about 12 HPDEs on a 2001 Z06 w/ 33K miles. Replaced the pads with stock about halfway through the season, and now the rotors need replacement before the season cranks back up.
Silly question #1 - Are all C5 rotors the same size? I was under the impression that Z06 and Z51 had upgraded (larger) rotors, however all of the vendors seem to have 1 size fits all, unless you "upgrade" to big brakes.
SQ#2 - I've read and heard conflicting recommendations on replacement rotors. For those of you with experience with NAPA rotors, are the stock Delco's worth the $? What about slotted rotors from VBP or StopTech. I'm not racing, but I do hit 145mph on the straight at Roebling and I don't want to regret going cheap, unless there's no major advantage.
SQ#3 - I been running Toyo Proxes street tires and am about to purchase the Toyo RA1 (888s not available in Z06 sizes yet), and saw a post that someone was having their tires shaved to "save tread-wear"? That seems counterintuitive. What am I missing? Would leaving the full tread depth not give longer tread wear? The Toyo's get great respect on the track because they seem to not follow the heat-cycle rules that apply to other similar tires from other brands.
Last SQ - I've read several threads about wheel bearings going out. How long does this take to happen and what are the signs and symptoms while driving. Assuming I have no noise and normal pad wear am I good, or should I just replace them as part of seasonal maintenance?
Thanks for your advice!
Been reading all of the HPDE and parts/recommendation threads. I have about 12 HPDEs on a 2001 Z06 w/ 33K miles. Replaced the pads with stock about halfway through the season, and now the rotors need replacement before the season cranks back up.
Silly question #1 - Are all C5 rotors the same size? I was under the impression that Z06 and Z51 had upgraded (larger) rotors, however all of the vendors seem to have 1 size fits all, unless you "upgrade" to big brakes.
SQ#2 - I've read and heard conflicting recommendations on replacement rotors. For those of you with experience with NAPA rotors, are the stock Delco's worth the $? What about slotted rotors from VBP or StopTech. I'm not racing, but I do hit 145mph on the straight at Roebling and I don't want to regret going cheap, unless there's no major advantage.
SQ#3 - I been running Toyo Proxes street tires and am about to purchase the Toyo RA1 (888s not available in Z06 sizes yet), and saw a post that someone was having their tires shaved to "save tread-wear"? That seems counterintuitive. What am I missing? Would leaving the full tread depth not give longer tread wear? The Toyo's get great respect on the track because they seem to not follow the heat-cycle rules that apply to other similar tires from other brands.
Last SQ - I've read several threads about wheel bearings going out. How long does this take to happen and what are the signs and symptoms while driving. Assuming I have no noise and normal pad wear am I good, or should I just replace them as part of seasonal maintenance?
Thanks for your advice!
12-18-2007, 03:55 PM
#2
Safety Car
Hey!
Been reading all of the HPDE and parts/recommendation threads. I have about 12 HPDEs on a 2001 Z06 w/ 33K miles. Replaced the pads with stock about halfway through the season, and now the rotors need replacement before the season cranks back up.
Silly question #1 - Are all C5 rotors the same size? I was under the impression that Z06 and Z51 had upgraded (larger) rotors, however all of the vendors seem to have 1 size fits all, unless you "upgrade" to big brakes.
They're all the same size.
SQ#2 - I've read and heard conflicting recommendations on replacement rotors. For those of you with experience with NAPA rotors, are the stock Delco's worth the $? What about slotted rotors from VBP or StopTech. I'm not racing, but I do hit 145mph on the straight at Roebling and I don't want to regret going cheap, unless there's no major advantage.
The stock Delcos won't last any longer than the NAPAs or the ITEs I'm using.
SQ#3 - I been running Toyo Proxes street tires and am about to purchase the Toyo RA1 (888s not available in Z06 sizes yet), and saw a post that someone was having their tires shaved to "save tread-wear"? That seems counterintuitive. What am I missing? Would leaving the full tread depth not give longer tread wear? The Toyo's get great respect on the track because they seem to not follow the heat-cycle rules that apply to other similar tires from other brands.
If you don't shave the RA1s to about 5 or 6 32nds they will get hot and chunk out on you. Nitto 555RIIs have the same tread compound as the RA1s and 888s and the Nittos come at 6/32s already for a couple hundred less dollars.
Last SQ - I've read several threads about wheel bearings going out. How long does this take to happen and what are the signs and symptoms while driving. Assuming I have no noise and normal pad wear am I good, or should I just replace them as part of seasonal maintenance?
Normally they start to growl first and then you know it's time to replace them. Problem is that if they start growling after/during your first session you're out for the day. If you run sticky tires, it's probably a good idea to change them out annually. Timken has them for about $168 each. However, Nittos, RA1s, and 888s aren't really as sticky as say Hoosiers so hopefully someone with experience will chime in and have some input on whether that trio will take out bearings as fast as real stickies do or not.Thanks for your advice!
Been reading all of the HPDE and parts/recommendation threads. I have about 12 HPDEs on a 2001 Z06 w/ 33K miles. Replaced the pads with stock about halfway through the season, and now the rotors need replacement before the season cranks back up.
Silly question #1 - Are all C5 rotors the same size? I was under the impression that Z06 and Z51 had upgraded (larger) rotors, however all of the vendors seem to have 1 size fits all, unless you "upgrade" to big brakes.
They're all the same size.
SQ#2 - I've read and heard conflicting recommendations on replacement rotors. For those of you with experience with NAPA rotors, are the stock Delco's worth the $? What about slotted rotors from VBP or StopTech. I'm not racing, but I do hit 145mph on the straight at Roebling and I don't want to regret going cheap, unless there's no major advantage.
The stock Delcos won't last any longer than the NAPAs or the ITEs I'm using.
SQ#3 - I been running Toyo Proxes street tires and am about to purchase the Toyo RA1 (888s not available in Z06 sizes yet), and saw a post that someone was having their tires shaved to "save tread-wear"? That seems counterintuitive. What am I missing? Would leaving the full tread depth not give longer tread wear? The Toyo's get great respect on the track because they seem to not follow the heat-cycle rules that apply to other similar tires from other brands.
If you don't shave the RA1s to about 5 or 6 32nds they will get hot and chunk out on you. Nitto 555RIIs have the same tread compound as the RA1s and 888s and the Nittos come at 6/32s already for a couple hundred less dollars.
Last SQ - I've read several threads about wheel bearings going out. How long does this take to happen and what are the signs and symptoms while driving. Assuming I have no noise and normal pad wear am I good, or should I just replace them as part of seasonal maintenance?
Normally they start to growl first and then you know it's time to replace them. Problem is that if they start growling after/during your first session you're out for the day. If you run sticky tires, it's probably a good idea to change them out annually. Timken has them for about $168 each. However, Nittos, RA1s, and 888s aren't really as sticky as say Hoosiers so hopefully someone with experience will chime in and have some input on whether that trio will take out bearings as fast as real stickies do or not.Thanks for your advice!
12-18-2007, 04:30 PM
#3
Drifting
I'd add, check your tie rods and re-torque your chamber concentrics. I'm also going to give a hard look at my caliper bolts and other hardware. Steel braided brake lines are also a good idea.
Matt
12-18-2007, 08:52 PM
#6
Safety Car
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I have run three seasons on Hoosiers - 12-14 events a year before I had bearing problems. They start to howl in the turns, and you WILL know when one is starting to go south on you. From now on I will change them at the end of the second season as a precaution.
12-19-2007, 04:00 AM
#7
Drifting
12-19-2007, 05:45 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11
+1 for Nitto 555RII's 
... about the most "track" oriented tire you can drive to the track on ... as long as you avoid standing water 
I drove 275 miles to VIR and ran there, then drove 275 miles to WGI and ran there (2nd day in the rain
... and drove home partway in the rain ...
Only other tire I have experience with is the stock F1 SC and I REALLY like the Nitto's.
... about the most "track" oriented tire you can drive to the track on ... as long as you avoid standing water I drove 275 miles to VIR and ran there, then drove 275 miles to WGI and ran there (2nd day in the rain
... and drove home partway in the rain ...Only other tire I have experience with is the stock F1 SC and I REALLY like the Nitto's.
12-20-2007, 12:48 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11
Yes ... roads were dry for that trip
and yes for WGI too - with wet track and wet roads on part of return.
BTW ... also drove Summit Point in the rain on them, and drove home in the rain (45 miles) ... that's when I learned how sensitive they are to aquaplaning thru standing water on rutted roads
and yes for WGI too - with wet track and wet roads on part of return.
BTW ... also drove Summit Point in the rain on them, and drove home in the rain (45 miles) ... that's when I learned how sensitive they are to aquaplaning thru standing water on rutted roads
12-20-2007, 08:44 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
The more air you can duct to the rotors, the better off (rotors & pads) you will be too! Now add to your list some good track brake pads and you should be set
12-31-2007, 09:23 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
FYI my RIIs should be coming in later this week and I'll have them on the track at Roebling Road the middle of Jan. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for your recommendation.
12-31-2007, 12:11 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11
Don't think alignment came up in this thread ... On a warm track, they really stick, and you want as much camber as you can get. I would suggest -1.5 front and -1.0 rear if you're still driving on the tires. Get caster close to 7.0 and front toe neutral or slightly (1/16") out; rear 1/16 to 1/8 toe in.
Let us know how it goes for you
12-31-2007, 12:47 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I looked at Edge Racing and while the tires were cheaper by the time I added in shipping and taking them somewhere to have them mounted etc, Discount Tires came out ahead. Thanks for the advice on the alignment. I've been running stock up to this point.
