steve40th

If I had the ZO7 suspension(115.5 front/57 rear springs)26s rear and 32s front sway bars, 275 BFG fronts/315 BFG (KD radials f/r), and I had offset lower control arm bushings, poly bushings everywhere else, yadda yadda. How much front camber would I want to go to before its TOO much, if there is too much camber for C4's. And how much has anyone tried to get with offset bushings, shaved spacers etc etc.
And what would you want the rear camber to be in relationship to front, i.e. .50 degrees less negative camber, .75?...
This is for autocross, and toe will be at 1/8 out in front, 1/8 inch in rear?

RAFTeRACER

On C-4's you generally want to get as much as you can and make em match. You really can't force too much into a C-4.

steve40th

Well if I had offset lower bushings, what would be the most, 3.5? 3? 2.5?
And what would you want the rear to be in relationship to the front?

Solofast

It depends.......

mostly on the tires and also somewhat on how much caster you are running, as well as what kind of courses you are seeing (are they slow or fast, and is there a lot of braking involved? Sounds like more questions than answers, but here is why I ask...

I don't know how much negative camber the tires you are running want. More negative camber (up to about 2 or 2.5 degrees) is generally good but more than that will start to reduce your braking ability. Slower courses for your car (17 inch wheel cars) will need more negative camber due to the kingpin inclination angle that is higher on your car than earlier C4's. At higher steering angles you will find the front end going away as a result of losing camber due to the kingpin angle effect. For that reason, if you have offset bushings, you can trade some negative camber for a lot of caster. Bigger caster angles (above 7 degrees) are GOOD for your car in low speed events (PATENTED SPEED SECRET.... DON"T TELL ANYBODY) and you may want to try more caster and a bit less negative camber. Hope this is a starting point, I would suggest that you start with about 2 degrees and load in as much caster as you can and then take tire temps to fine tune it.

As for the rear, there is a right amount of negative camber, and it is not dependent on what is happeing in the front. -1.5 to -1.75 is in the right range.

Get the front end to stick and the back end to follow and you will be fast.

steve40th

Thanks Solo, that helps allot
Most of our courses are slow, and lots of braking, technical turns.
My car is lowered too. If that helps.

MistressMotorsports

When I had my 93 Z07 car, set up a lot like yours, I ran approx 2 deg in front, 1.5 in back. 6 deg caster, same toe settings as you. When I went to full heims in back, I went to only 1/16 total toe in. I did find in all cases for me, though, that a 30mm front, 26 mm rear sway bar combination was much more neutral. Just something to think about. It might be better to run less bar in front if you find you are compensating for stead state understeer with lots of camber.

Mike

steve40th

Thanks Mike, I do have the 315's in the rear too.
I have read where you can adjust the front bar with shims etc under the mounting point on the frame. As this can help fine tune the cars front.
I am still a novice. I do want to get the car aligned and with the proper gear, i.e springs, shocks, etc etc. Then I can conentrate on the driver, me.
I dont run enough here to be competetive in SCCA and the class I am in, BSP is 240Z's and M3's, and the courses are not Corvette friendly.