Poppy's Vette

I'm looking for a trailer and I wondered if anyone has used a 16ft open trailer for their C6?



I think one problem might be that the front tie down hooks would be too close under the nose of the car to ratchet.

The trailer I currently use is 18 ft and it has 2 additional tie downs up front and those are the ones I have to use.



Any real life experience would be appreciated.

Paul

c4cruiser

Check with the dealer or trailer manufacturers to see if you can get custom tie-down rings. Steel deck trailers should be able to have D-rings mounted just about anywhere. If necessary an extra cross-brace can be added under the deck where you want the rings to go.

From the pics it looks like the 18 foot trailer is a good fit for your setup. Is there any particular reason you need to go to a shorter trailer? You may not be able to get a tire rack mounted to a 16 unless it goes up over the nose of the car.

beerkat

I tow my C5Z on a 16' open trailer for a while. Loading was the biggest problem I had. My 16' had a dovetail on it also. Longer ramps would have help.

C5 XTC

You'll get lots of opinions......when I bought my trailer this year I opted for a 20 footer and I am glad I did. I was able to get a 4 foot dove tail which makes loading a breeze and I have plenty of room in the front for a good sized storage box. If I had it to do over, I would opt again for the 20 footer. Send me an email and I'll send some photos of my car on the trailer.

C5 XTC

loco engineer

You need these http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...70_43572_43572 to tie down. They insert into the slots we use for jacking pucks. The only way I tie my vette down!

Poppy's Vette

The only reason I am looking at using a 16 footer is I can get one (the one in the picture) for a very good price. It is used and in excellant condition. I supposed additional tie down locations can be added by a trailer shop but I don't know. Thinking about it more I suspect I should just wait and watch for at least an 18 or 20 footer. I probably would not be happy in the long run with the 16. The one I currently use (in the second picture) is a tilt down which I absolutely love. I already have my own T-Hooks and straps.

Thanks for the input guys.

FasterIsBetter

Remember, it is only a good price if it fits your car and you don't have to spend a lot of money modifying it to work with your car. Otherwise, hold out until you find one that will work. There are a lot of trailers out there, and good deals come along all the time as people decide to move up to bigger trailers. That's how I've picked up the two trailers that I've owned.

mikahb

I think you're exactly right. You'd feel good about saving a buck right up until the first time you tried to load and tie down your car. The right deal will come along, and "it only costs a nickel more to go first class."

Bill Dearborn

Tie downs could be added further forward but the other alternative is to set your front tie downs at a specific length to balance the load on the trailer and fasten them into the tie down hooks, then drive onto the trailer fasten the front straps into the frame slots and then use the rear tie downs to ratchet the car backwards (or actually drive it backwards if the distance is too far). I do the exact opposite with my car on a 16 footer. I drive onto the trailer and fasten my rear chains into the shipping slots and then drive forward until the chains are tight. Then I fasten the front tie down straps and ratchet the car forward against the chains as my tie down point is mounted on the trailer tongue.

You will find there is lots of room on a 16 ft trailer with a C4/C5/C6 on board. I have room for a tire rack on the front of my trailer and there is a space in front of the car that I can use to tie down equipment if needed.

Bill

John Shiels

no matter what it cost from 1 dollar to a million make sure it has brakes on both axles.

Poppy's Vette

Some guys are just so smart. That sound like a good system Bill. Do you happen to have any pictures of the setup all loaded? I also wondered about how well it all balances out with the front of the car so far forward plus the weight of the tire rack and tires all forward of the axles. Again, I would prefer a longer trailer but this trailer is so cheap it's screaming ... buy me!

Poppy's Vette

That's not overkill? I've had 2 trailers and neither have had brakes for both axles. I towed my much heavier TA, also with a tire rack, and this current tilt down with the vette and I've never had braking issues.



I'm not saying it's a bad thing, I understand redundant systems, but I'm not at all sure it's a "must have".

droq172

I have the same truck in the driveway. I have always worried the Cali Edition Silverado 1500 did not have the fortitude to pull a Vette. But now I know it can be done.

Poppy's Vette

I love this truck and it tows very well. It's the 5.3 L. I lowered it about 3 inches with drop front spindles and relocation brackets for the rear springs. Then I added air bags and an onboard compressor for the rear so when I haul or tow I just bring the rear bags up until I'm level again. It's very sweet. I get decent gas mileage averaging 17 mpg and it goes down to about 9 or 10 when I tow.

Get a brake controller and tow away. You'll love it!

Brett Richmond

Question?? Do the air bags help with keeping the truck from squating while towing?? I have a 93 Silverado that I would like to keep the rear of the truck at stock height while I am towing.

Gray Ghost GS

Poppy's Vette

That's exactly what they do. Do a search for Air Lift

c4cruiser

Firestone also has airbags that bolt on to the frame just above the axle. But you need a certain amount of clearance between the inside tire sidewall and the frame in order for them to mount (AirLift may be the same way) properly. The nice thinga bout AirLift bags is that you can add a small compressor to adjust ride height without having to find a air hose.

But if you use airbags to level the truck, makes sure you set the trailer hitch up so that the trailer is level too You may have to go to a hitch slug that has a longer drop or get an asjustable one.

As far as trailer brakes, DEFINITELY get a trailer with brakes on both axles. With a steel trailer and car, you can be looking at 5000+ pounds total towed weight. A single pair of brakes may not be up to the task especially if you live (or drive) in areas with hills. It's not a lot extra for the second pari and worth the added margin of safety.

Also, states have different laws regarding trailer brakes. Some states require brakes on both axles when the trailer weighs over a certain amount. So chack your state laws first (but get brakes on both axles anyway ).

Bill Dearborn

Like John said make sure it has 4 wheel brakes. The car you have on the trailer has 4 wheel brakes and the combo is even heavier. No 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck is going to have enough brake to stop the whole rig in a reasonable distance if you only have 2 wheel brakes on the trailer.

Here are some pictures of my trailer with the car loaded on it. I don't have any without the car and it will be several months before I will have any since it is stored with a bunch of tires and lawn furniture on top of it.

I have used this trailer since I bought it new in 1993 and it has served me well even though it sat outside year long for 11 of those years.

Profile:


Front showing tie downs going through front wind screen port:


Front showing tie down straps fastened to tie down point on the tongue:


Rear (can't see chains as they are fastened to D hooks that are fastened to a trailer cross beam under the car:


Ramps (10 ft long - 2 sections each side):



Bill

Poppy's Vette

That's a nice, compact rig Bill. If I end up with a 16 footer, I will model it after yours. Did you find the proper balance for tongue weight all loaded like that?