RobertEarl

I am going to be installing an accusump and will be plumbing it into the front oil gallery hole. I have seen many people get the 90 degree fitting to ANC fitting for this. My question is how to you tighten this fitting up enough to get it to point in the correct direction. It does not appear to be a pipe thread into the engine so when you tighten it up the correct amount, how do you get it pointed in the right direction?? Do you use copper gaskets of different thickness to do this? Would it be better to get a straight fitting into the engine and then a 90 degree ANC fitting so you could locate it the correct way?

I would just like to have all of the correct parts before I start this job and not have to leave it up on stands for a week while I order what I need.

Reb

Bink

From Dave Farmers site :

http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/accusump.pdf

http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/FluidairParker.pdf

page 25 of the Parker pdf shows the 8M16C80MX elbow fitting.
Note the lock nut.

Many thanks to Dave.

RobertEarl

Hey
Thanks alot. No I did not notice the lock nut. That makes things a lot eaiser.

Reb

RobertEarl

If I run the oil line down the frame rail from the drivers side inner fender, would a 45 degree elbow be better than a 90??

Reb

mgarfias

I used a straight fitting, whatever the metric side was to -10, then plumbed the line into that.

Remember a 90deg fitting loses you about 5psi.

emf

16mmx1.5

RobertEarl

Thanks guys


Reb

mgarfias

yeah, yeah... i was too lazy to look it up.

davidfarmer

I would like to follow up by saying that in some instances, a "straight" adapter might be easier to use than a 90deg fitting as is in my article.

Glad my guide is coming in handy

bb69

I am getting ready to buy my Accusump and fittings. I read David's information, and it looks like the fitting is an -8 AN. However, Moroso suggests to use all -10 AN lines. I found a M16x1.5 to -10AN fitting from Earl's. Should I go with the large tubing?

By the way, this is for my scratch built racecar, so I have plenty of room. I plan to use an oil cooler with this combination.

Thank
Ken

RobertEarl

I just used the AN-8 fitting and go -8 hose. If you put a -10 to a -8 reducer on it, your flow will still only be as good as the -8 due to the reducer size.

When you mount the accusump in the fender well. Mount the top clamp on the plastic boss that sticks out with the numbers on it. Put it on the rearward side of that boss and the bottom will fit just fine. You will have to cut the plastic flange that sticks out to clear the sump.

As far as the fittings go I went with a 1/2 npt male to female 90 degree out of the sump to a 2 inch long pipe to a 45 degree fitting. This aimed the lines right up the frame rail completely out of the way.

Reb

bb69

Reb,
My car is not a Vette. It uses Vette suspension and drivertrain, but it is a mid engine tube frame car. That's why I was wondering if the -8 was used because of packaging reasons.

As for the Accusump itself, does it use an -8 fitting?

Thanks
Ken

XPC5R

I used a AN10 straight adapter (Earls 9919FFJ), then a AN10 90 degree hose end to get to mine.

mgarfias

Ken -

The big restriction is the oil gallery input. You're just fine with -8 (wish I had known). Also, my other piece of advice is mount the valve/solenoid where its easy to get to. I've had two failures now, and fixing requires pulling the fender. When I fix it, I'm moving it into the engine bay where it is easy to get to. Just not sure where yet.

RobertEarl

The bottom of the Accusump is 1/2 NPT. You can go from there to what ever you want.

Reb

C6RAPTOR

I am also installing a Accusump in my C6.
I was looking for info on using Earls fitting and hose from the block's M16X1.5 to the Accusump's 1/2" NPT. I found an Earls rep. http://www.anplumbing.com/ and talked to Tom at 310-542-0856. Tom was a big help. He even knew what a Accusump was!!
He gave me the following part numbers starting at the block oil port and ending at the Accusump:
9919FFJ METRIC THREAD MALE TO AN ADAPTER $10.35
178010 STAT-O-SEAL for the 9919FFJ ADAPTER $6.04
809110 SWIVEL SEAL 90 DEG TUBE HOSE END $23.49 804610 SWIVEL SEAL 45 DEG MAY WORK BETTER $23.35 as per ibjamin
300010 SS FLEX HOSE $6.99 PER FT.
800110 -10 SWIVEL SEAL STRAIT HOSE END $10.61
981610 STRAIGHT , 1/2' NPT PIPE THREAD TO AN ADAPTER $4.88

You can go to the web site and order or call Tom
There is also a bunch of how to vidios on the web site that shows how to work with the fittings & hose.

davidfarmer

90 def is nice BUT difficult to install with engine in the car. I usually do it with engine on the ground. I like the 90 tight to the engine but install is tight

C6RAPTOR

Dave
I was hoping you gave your ideas before I started my order for fitting and hose.
So the way I understand what you like is to do the 90 deg at the engine in place of the 9919FFJ straight Metric thread male to AN adapter. I will need to see if Earls has a 90 deg Metric Adapter.
Gary

davidfarmer

I guess........I've been using the 90º fitting shown on my site for 10 years now, and it's the only one I've ever used. It is the first one I found that worked, and never saw a reason to change.

I don't know that it is better, but it tucks the AN line up tight against the side of the engine. Again, nobody made kits, or even knew the fittings back when I first did mine. I just kept unscrewing plugs until I found an oil galley, took a trip to Fluidair/Parker, and the rest is history.


The crate motor shown in my PDF was the first engine I put in my 01' WC car that had the performance cam and heads from GM. Thanks to GM's bad batch of lifter guides, I got less than 2 races out of that engine before the roller burned out of a lifter and creamed the camshaft. My next engine, assembled by Katech, did the same thing after barely 2 races (although it allowed me to win a Pro race before blowing).

ibjamin

Here's mine:

http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...0oil%20cooler/

I used a straight in fitting to the galley and a 45deg -10an fitting/hose. Easy to route the hose then.

G