When to change C6Z Pads & fluid?
#1
Racer
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When to change C6Z Pads & fluid?
It's probably been asked before, but since i've got a 2 day track event coming up next month, I want to be sure i'll be safe to run.
I did a high speed track event about 6 weeks ago and the car only has about 1500 miles on it otherwise. So what's the normal number interval for changing pads and brake fluid?
I did a high speed track event about 6 weeks ago and the car only has about 1500 miles on it otherwise. So what's the normal number interval for changing pads and brake fluid?
#2
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Brake fluid should be flushed before and after each event, unless you use Castrol SRF.
Padlets, depending oh how much is remaining and being your second event they may also need to be changed.
Mileage has nothing to do with when, but the use does.
Padlets, depending oh how much is remaining and being your second event they may also need to be changed.
Mileage has nothing to do with when, but the use does.
#3
Team Owner
see what you used for the first 1500 and one track day. You don't want to run them down to any less than .20" material left MAXIMUM. Do the math and see whats left. See what there are new in thickness,
What fluid are you running?
What fluid are you running?
#4
Racer
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Stock fluid, stock pads. I didn't know you needed to flush the fluid after just 1 event. I suppose this would involve bleeding as well... which I HATE doing.
#5
Le Mans Master
Many members here including myself start with a good quality DOT 4 brake fluid, I use Motul RB 600.
I'd suggest you start by sucking out as much as the original fluid as you can from the master cylinder with something like a turkey baster, syphon hose, wet/dry vacuum, whatever (do not get brake fluid on your paint!!!).
Then fill with DOT 4 such as the Motul. Now either you will need a helper to pump while you open and close the bleed screws or you can get a pressure cannister (also by Motul as I recall) for about $55, this unit replaces the cover on the master cylinder and you pump up the pressure to 20 pounds.
Then open the bleed screws one at a time until only clear new fluid starts to come out. Make sure the master cylinder does not empty while doing this or you will have to start over. In either case start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (RR) and the the next closest (LR) and the the RF and finally the LF.
The entire process should take 15 to 30 minutes depending on whether you are on a lift and if you remove the wheels or not. Usually the rears can be done with the wheels in place but not always. Good luck with it!
#6
Racer
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Any chance I can just suck and replace with a turkey baster until I get clean fluid?
#7
Team Owner
no that will not get old fluid in the caliper out which is the most important. You need to learn to do some things or pay someone which can get real expensive. Try to find someone near you that you can feed for some help
#8
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By the way, I checked the fluid this afternoon and it looked pretty dirty; dark brown in color. I suppose this is a sign that it needs to be flushed or does it normally get brown after a bit of use?
#9
Le Mans Master
..the part of the system that most needs a good clean DOT 4 is the calipers, as a rule we bleed/flush the entire system to make sure there is only new fluid in the system...this is critical if you want to track your car safely for your sake and others on the track with you.
#11
Team Owner
I've done brakes before along with tons of other mods/fixes to other cars, but i'm not really keen on fooling with the part of my car that is designed to slow me down from 165mph coming off a back stretch
By the way, I checked the fluid this afternoon and it looked pretty dirty; dark brown in color. I suppose this is a sign that it needs to be flushed or does it normally get brown after a bit of use?
By the way, I checked the fluid this afternoon and it looked pretty dirty; dark brown in color. I suppose this is a sign that it needs to be flushed or does it normally get brown after a bit of use?
#12
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#14
Le Mans Master
It doesn't matter if it looks good or not, you need to flush you fluid just before EVERY track event. It only takes a few days before the fluid starts to absorb water and the boiling point takes a huge dive. It doesn't matter for street use, but if you're going to push your car deep into the brake zones you've got to know that they're goinng to work, which means FRESH brake fluid.
#15
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What's a safe period of time? Does it need to be days before an event or can you go a few weeks?