Zee0hh6ix

Looking to do some upgrades to the C6Z06. I’ve outgrown the stock setup and I’m looking for an alternative without going to a BBK. I wanted to try a dba 4000 series front and rear rotors, goodridge brake line, and Hawk pads DTC 70 for the front and DTC 60 for the rear.

I came to this selection based on information gathered primarily from this forum.

I went to a local “speedshop” on Friday and told him what I was looking for, part numbers and all. He calls back to say everything I’ve selected is no good. He claims that the dba distributor does not recommend the rotors for tracking the car and he also claims the brake lines have been known to fail (that sounds cray to me) He wanted to sell me Stoptechs, which were my second choice anyways.

Has anyone had any issues with items I’ve outlined?

Although they are not the shop I write about, has anyone dealt with Vette Brakes and Products they are being recommended by a buddy that drag races.

Thanks in advance
Chuck

0Randy@DRM

Chuck, it sounds to me like your parts are not high margin sales items for the speed shop. But telling you there is problems with them is a little far. We use our own blend of parts, just like every other shop out there.

Randy

95jersey

Oh boy, here we go again. Couple of comments

Don't ever go to a "speed shop" for aftermarket parts for your vette, always come to the forum first, ask in a post, then directly contact the top vendors that are recomended to you by experienced people. Cut out the middleman.

I wouldn't waste my money on a DBA rotors, expensive and since they are a one piece design, they will last no longer than stock. The stock rotors are actually VERY good even with holes. Buy rotors from GM Direct, and pay no more than $120 per rotor. They are still cheaper than Stoptech rings even if the rings last longer.

You can go SS lines, I've used goodrige at over 60+ track events, no leaks no problems. Use good fluid (motul/ATE).

VBP (Vette Brake Products) is awesome and generally sells quality stuff.

Some more comments...

You are in the SAME position I am. BBK = BIG $$$$. Like I have said, I think the stock brakes are very good, just wear through pads quickly. I am going to try Carbotech's their single pad design this year and see how that works compared to the paddlets. I find thought if you buy the same compound in the front as the rear, you can interchange the paddlets and get more life out of them. I bought a used set of XP12's that had 1/2 day on them, and by changing the pads around (front to back, leading vs trailing), so far got 3 more days and I beleive I may still have one day left. This is a PITA I will agree, but it helps increase the longevity of the pads. I figure if I do 10 events a year, at $500 a set I will have to buy 3 sets. If you plan on owning your car longer than 2-3 years, a BBK will pay for itself. I easily got an entire season from my wilwoods. So at $1500 a year, it will take about 2 years to break even. It's a tough decision, but pad wear is the major factor behind this decision. Also if you go BBK, you are stuck using their rotors at their prices and you have these beautiful slotted 2 peice rotors up front and the stock rotors (with holes) in the rear. On the street, it won't look as good as you would like.

It's a tough decision, don't let anyone convince you how to spend your money. My advice, if you got the money, go for the BBK, if not be preppared to do all the above to manage pad wear all year long. Also, the DTC 70 are probably the best pad out, but will trash your rotors in a big hurry. If you are not planning on racing and are more budget conscious first, go to a lesser pad (DTC 60) or even a Carbotech 10/12. You will only give up 10% in utlimate braking performance, but increase the life of your rotors significantly. I am using XP12's and are thinking of even downgrading to XP10's. It will make your rotors last twice as long and I find it a challenge to still outbrake guys with BBK. Remember 90% of this sport is driver driver driver.

JDIllon

I ran the Hawk DTC 70/60s with 2pcs rotors and they worked great. And I am running the DTC70s with DBA rotors on the rear with Brembo Mono block 6 piston fronts and that setup is awesome if you want to safe some money and still get BBK braking. As far as the brake lines the goodridge should be fine, I'm not sure what brand I used. Check with Allanlaw on this forum, I think he is running almost the same setup you are talking about. I know he has been running the DBA rotors. I have been thru a lot of different brake setups on the car. To many to explain here, drop me a PM with your # and I would be happy to pass along what I have learned. Mostly what not to do. LOL JD

stano

Carbo Tech suggested the DBA rotors 4000 series using their Bob Cat pads for the street and the XP12 for the track. They said their pads worked well using this set-up. I ordered the DBA's slotted for the front, DRM brake lines and Motul RBF 600. I've got 40 K on my rotors with the Hawk HP's and it shows.

I'm now looking for wheels/tires for the track.
Any suggestions? CCW's 18's X 4 and either NT01's or 555r2's....
Who has the best prices?


Thanks!

95jersey

Let me clarify, if you are not running R compounds (even Hoosiers at that), you are and will NEVER take nearly full advantage of a DTC70. If you are running street tires at the track, buy a brake pad to match. Not until you run hard with a set of hardcore r compounds do you need brakes like that. And if you are never going to run r compound, then you do not need a BBK, as you will not go through brake pads as I have described. We basically ASSUME on this forum you are running R compounds.

kentz06

PM sent...

Dean

Gary_C

When you say that you've "outgrown the stock setup" what exactly are you experiencing?
Fade? Premature wear? Failures? Warpage?

While I wouldn't necessarily agree with what your "speed shop" had to say, the reason that this is an important question is because there are some symptoms that simply cannot be cured with changing the brand of disc, adding braided lines, and going to a more aggressive pad. As a matter of fact, the introduction of the more aggressive pad could become a specific cause for the problem to worsen.

If I assume that your problem is fade at the track, and possibly premature wear of both rotors and pads, my initial advice (if you are not yet in the market for a BBK) is to look into ducting to introduce more airflow to the braking system. That would be my first step before even beginning to think about changing pads.

The addition of a more aggressive pad will only increase the operating temperatures of the entire system. If heat capacity is the issue, I would also have to say that changing rotor brands, but staying with the OEM diameter is not going to make a difference on it's own. You need to either find ways to more efficiently cool the system in between braking cycles, or introduce more heat capacity to better manage the heat that is being generated.

If you want to give me a call and explain exactly what you are experiencing, I may be able to give you a better diagnosis. There are a few intermediate steps before choosing to go with a BBK. If I can offer some help, I will be more than willing to.

Gary C.
Brembo / RaceTechnologies
888.Brembo.8 ext 118
gary@racetechnologies.com