Winching and tie downs on enclosed trailer - need advise please
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Winching and tie downs on enclosed trailer - need advise please
I have done a ton of searching, but still need some help.
I have been trailering my C5 for years in an enclosed trailer, using the T-hooks, crossed straps and frame tie down points. I also had a driver's escape door, so I drove the car on the trailer, and had pretty good access to make all the attaching pretty easy.
I just bought a new aluminum enclosed trailer, with no driver's escape door. I am installing a Superwinch 5000 (I know, overkill) with the wireless remote control. Now I have to figure out how to load and tie down my current car, an '09 Z06.
I am very big and not as agile as I used to be. I will not be able to get down the sides of the car to attach the T-hooks. Also, only a couple of inches clearance between the car and the trailer wheel wells.
The rear is not much of a challenge. I can either attach the T-hooks before I load the car, cross them and let them hang over the exhaust tips while I load the car, or I can install a rear tow hook between the exhaust pipes.
The problem is the front. I need to decide where to attach to winch the car forward. I guess I could continue to use the T-hooks and connect them to a D Ring, and pull it forward, then attach the normal way. My problem is that I have never particularly liked the T-Hook method, especially if I am loading the car by myself. Cumbersome to attach, low clearance, rubbing the front chin spoiler, etc.
I would like to install some front tow hooks, but do not want them to be visible. Does anyone have any ideas on where / how to mount? Does anyone use the aftermarket tow hooks as tie down points in the trailer?
I do not want to run front straps through the wheels or use the wheel bonnets, becuase I occasionally haul show cars (with chrome rims). I also do not want to connect to the lower control arms, I just don't trust it to be safe on the suspension.
Any advice is welcome.
I have been trailering my C5 for years in an enclosed trailer, using the T-hooks, crossed straps and frame tie down points. I also had a driver's escape door, so I drove the car on the trailer, and had pretty good access to make all the attaching pretty easy.
I just bought a new aluminum enclosed trailer, with no driver's escape door. I am installing a Superwinch 5000 (I know, overkill) with the wireless remote control. Now I have to figure out how to load and tie down my current car, an '09 Z06.
I am very big and not as agile as I used to be. I will not be able to get down the sides of the car to attach the T-hooks. Also, only a couple of inches clearance between the car and the trailer wheel wells.
The rear is not much of a challenge. I can either attach the T-hooks before I load the car, cross them and let them hang over the exhaust tips while I load the car, or I can install a rear tow hook between the exhaust pipes.
The problem is the front. I need to decide where to attach to winch the car forward. I guess I could continue to use the T-hooks and connect them to a D Ring, and pull it forward, then attach the normal way. My problem is that I have never particularly liked the T-Hook method, especially if I am loading the car by myself. Cumbersome to attach, low clearance, rubbing the front chin spoiler, etc.
I would like to install some front tow hooks, but do not want them to be visible. Does anyone have any ideas on where / how to mount? Does anyone use the aftermarket tow hooks as tie down points in the trailer?
I do not want to run front straps through the wheels or use the wheel bonnets, becuase I occasionally haul show cars (with chrome rims). I also do not want to connect to the lower control arms, I just don't trust it to be safe on the suspension.
Any advice is welcome.
Last edited by NVR2L8; 10-27-2008 at 03:22 AM.
#2
Le Mans Master
I have space constraints as well when towing my race car. Once my car is in, I have no way of accessing the side or front of the car as it's too low and the Nitrogen bottles block the sides. If you have a winch, you can stop the car on the trailer ramp. This puts the car in a nice elevated position so you can attach your front straps wherever you like, including T-hooks. You can then either with Velcro or a loop affix the straps to the front of the car, or to the cable itself. Once the car is pulled in completely, simply thread the straps through the ratchets and tighten down to your floor anchors.
Mike
Mike
#3
Short throw pretty much explained it. To make it even easier, measure and order custom length fixed straps for the front. That way you simply latch them to the tie down points and only ratchet the rears.
I have "soft" tow points that will work for winching as well.
I have "soft" tow points that will work for winching as well.
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
I have space constraints as well when towing my race car. Once my car is in, I have no way of accessing the side or front of the car as it's too low and the Nitrogen bottles block the sides. If you have a winch, you can stop the car on the trailer ramp. This puts the car in a nice elevated position so you can attach your front straps wherever you like, including T-hooks. You can then either with Velcro or a loop affix the straps to the front of the car, or to the cable itself. Once the car is pulled in completely, simply thread the straps through the ratchets and tighten down to your floor anchors.
Mike
Mike
Very cool. I have seen your write-up and pics before, and I love the concept. I just have not been able to figure out how to do it on a C6 Z06, and keep the stock look (hiding the straps).
#5
I have drive up the ramp1/2 way then hook up the tie down straps in the frame rails. I attach them to the winch and winch the car in. I am standing on the drivers side and moving the steering wheel if needed. I have a wheel chock close by and one where the ft wheels should be.
When the car hits the first chock I place the second one attach the tie downs and winch the car down. I remove the chocks and am ready to go. I also have a solar panel on the roof and have it hooked up to trickle charge the trailer battery.
Good Luck
When the car hits the first chock I place the second one attach the tie downs and winch the car down. I remove the chocks and am ready to go. I also have a solar panel on the roof and have it hooked up to trickle charge the trailer battery.
Good Luck
#6
Melting Slicks
Another alternative to tie down the car is e-track and over-the-wheel tie down straps. Circle track magazine has had several articles on this method. For winching, an 8 foot strap with J hooks on the ends can be attached to the lower a-arm and the winch hook to the center should also do the trick.
#7
Team Owner
Another alternative to tie down the car is e-track and over-the-wheel tie down straps. Circle track magazine has had several articles on this method. For winching, an 8 foot strap with J hooks on the ends can be attached to the lower a-arm and the winch hook to the center should also do the trick.
Once the car is sitting in the right spot in the trailer, the front straps should never need adjustment other than simply tightening up the straps with the ratchet. The key is getting the car lined up properly.
But if the trailer is not set up for floor e-tracks, you may have to have that done. That entails adding extra under-floor crossmembers and modifying the floor so that the e-track sits flush to the floor. Many trailers have pre-installed D-rings and you can use fixed-length straps at the front provided you can easily get to an attaching point on the front of the car.
But with fixed-length straps or chains, that pretty much requires that the car is parked exactly where it needs to be otherwise one of the front pieces will not always tighten down.
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2002
Location: Charleston South Carolina
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I've heard of a new set up for the front tow hook. It uses an eye hook that is screwed into a receptor that is attached to the front cross frame. It's invisable until you screw the eye hook in for winching. Anyone have pictures?
If you use over-the-tire tie-downs the car can bounce in the trailer and blow out expensive shocks while you are transporting it, FWIW. Use the J-hooks to keep the bouncing to a minimum.
If you use over-the-tire tie-downs the car can bounce in the trailer and blow out expensive shocks while you are transporting it, FWIW. Use the J-hooks to keep the bouncing to a minimum.
#9
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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Why not still use the T Hooks? Just lay the front and rear hooks with straps attached on the ground (or maybe trailer ramp) where you plan on stopping the car to hook up the winch. Attach the T Hooks into the frame and then hook the front straps to the winch and loop the rear straps around each other so they drag on the ground at the center of the car but can't go under the rear wheels. Winch the car into the trailer attach the ends of the straps to your tie down points, tighten and you are ready to close the door. This way you are still using the best method there is to tie the car down.
Bill
Bill
#10
Drifting
Attach the T Hooks into the frame and then hook the front straps to the winch and loop the rear straps around each other so they drag on the ground at the center of the car but can't go under the rear wheels. Winch the car into the trailer attach the ends of the straps to your tie down points, tighten and you are ready to close the door. This way you are still using the best method there is to tie the car down. Bill
Whatever, I don't recommend doing what I've seen some people do and use the winch cable to hold the front in place - it can move side-to-side!
Here's the trailer:
Last edited by NavyVet; 10-29-2008 at 12:33 PM.