RusherRacing

History
I came from an AutoX back ground racing light low hp cars. Stock rotors and HP+ pads were all I needed didn't have any issues last a long time etc. I then purchased a full blown race car (mitsu eclipse gsx 2600lbs-400hp) with TCE big brake kit. I had a ton of pads that came with the car and slotted/cryotreated rotors. never had any problems with the brakes. The rotors never cracked or warped pads lasted a long time! however i couldn't keep a drivetrain in it to save my life. Couldn't enjoy it unless on the track....

So I purchased a C5-Z06 to be an all around street driven, autoxin, HPDE, and Open Road Race Car. The this seemed to fit the bill but was still more expensive than I wanted to spend but. I figured the lack of repairs would make up some of the difference and I could enjoy it a whole lot more.

Now to the questions...

1) Is used pads a viable option? Race brake pads are expensive and you burn through them. I use used tires and have for a couple years now. i am not as fast as I could be but I do it for enjoyment not to be #1 every weekend. But with brakes It would not make me any slower it is more of a safety/cost thing. What are your opinions on used pads, they still bring a hefty price tag but could I save some money in the long run?

2) Pad compound? I use HP+ on the street and AutoX however I found them to really suck at the track. I used Hawk Blue 9012's on the eclipse but I have read on here that they are even harder on our already quick failing rotors. What Pad choice is best for pad life and rotor life? Wilwood H? other choices? How would they do at Open Road Racing or should I stick with HP+ pads for that? Do you recommend a different front/rear pad to give proper bias if so which ones?

3) Rotors. Just wanted to verify the Centric C5 Rotors are the best bang for the buck. Otherwise NAPA rotors.

4) DRM Brake Ducts: Will they clear 315/35/17 tires on the front? (AutoX and track day tires)

5) Are the DRM Brake Pistons worth it? Do you see a noticable difference?

6) Fluid: My other budget minded racers friends use Valvoline Synpower fluid and buy it in bulk but it does require flushing after each hard day at the track. If I bite the bullet and jump to Castrol SRF will I not need to bleed the brake all season (2 open road races, 8 AutoX, 4-8track days). I used willwood 570 in the eclipse and only had to bleed them before every event.

Current Brake Inventory:
I currently have a set of worn stock pads (enought to get me home from the track) going to keep as spares to for just that reason.
Stock Rotors currently being used with the HP+ pads (~half worn)
New cryo rotors (slotted) from BSI (yea I know i have read since purchased)

Stainless Steel brake line will be added before next event that decision has already been made. I plan to use the HP+ pads and the Cryo rotors for street and autoX.

Also a BBK is out of the equation atleast for this year. My budget is already over 5k for the year and I don't think the wife will let me drop 2500+ on brakes plus it would screw me on some classing.

ssdeuce

Aardwolf

Keep the HP+ and ZO6 pads as spares and use a real race pad like something from Cobalt, Carbotech, PFC, Wilwood, etc. There's been a lot of long threads on pads and how they've done for people. I use some used pads and think it's fine. How much you spend will relate to how competitive you are. I just bleed one pump through after each track day for my inspection routine. You don't need to waste tons of fluid. SRF is excellent but I have found anything with around 400°+ wet to be great.

MattB

I’m no expert, but have had some luck with the wilwood pads. H compound, they seem to last pretty long for me. I liked the carbotech xp10 and xp12, but they went pretty fast for me, others like them. Personally I don’t like hawks, maybe the blues would be OK but I’m liking the Wilwoods and see no real reason to try another at this point.

Not sure about the ducts clearing 315’s up front, but they clear 295s. DRM should be able to tell you. You are getting the spindle ducts right?

I’m going the way of the napa rotors for a while. They are cheap and easy to swap. I’ve seen more expensive rotors crack on the first day. The only thing I’m considering is the wider wildwood calipers sold by LG to use thicker pads. But, so far not really needed. I’d wait and see what your weak point is for your driving.

Fluid, I’d suggest Motul 600 or better (SRF) and bleed a lot.

Hopefully some more experienced people will chime in.

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

Carbotech Performance Brakes
4031 Dearborn Place N.W.
Concord, NC 28027

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gonzalezfj

I recommend you use what the National Champions use: Hawk DTC-70 pads. You can buy them used from Phoenix Performance, a sponsor of CF.

Frank Gonzalez

dvandentop

there is always some used dtc-70 pads for sale on here from phoenix it seems


get some ATE superblue it is good and doesnt boil over for me on the hardest track days at MAM on the c6z brakes that si with running hoosiers and it is only like $10 a litre i believe.

i have the carbotech xp12/10 combo for my car they have good bit but seem to fade a little bit as the session gets close to the end. i will be upgrading to cobalt friction for road race next summer but they are expensive, as long as they last 1 season that is ok.

0corvette pilot

and in the future, if you want an inexpensive BBK, the C6 Z06 calipers will swap out, and you can get a complete set for about 1600 (rotors, pads, calipers) or piece together what you need. Some vendors have even had them on sale for 1200 complete. Personally, I would buy the calipers from Gene Culley, DBA rotors from Tire rack and I have been using HP+ pads successfully on the track. I'm probably lighter on the brakes then most, but they do great for me.

You can get much better brakes than the Z06 calipers, but not for the price.

0Randy@DRM

315s are thin to win. You shouldn't have any issues on the track. But the Auto-x may cause some issues. Becarefull in the paddock and plan ahead so you don't need to get to full lock (it's not good on the power steering anyways). Placement is key, some including we have done it and the duct lived a nice life.

Pistons, at the auto-x isn't that needed. The roadrace track with a long run time, or you are heavy on the brake. They will be worth it.

Randy

mathia

I have the DRM ducts and after several rounds of adjusting there's finally no rubbing with my OEM C5 Z06 17x9.5 wheels up front on the track or the parking lot. But if you're talking about budget, I think you can get the C6 Z06 brake ducts and cut them to fit a C5 for less than half the cost.

davidfarmer

Stoptech is running some specials on overstock kits right now....might be worth checking out if you want a front BBK kit

MJM

If Randy says they will fit with 315s then put them on there. No matter what brakes you choose keeping them cool on the racetrack will improve your experience.

As for the brakes, rotors and pads there are a million ways to drain money on them. The stock calipers have limitations on the racetrack and high performance pads are expensive for Corvettes. BBKs can knock you back $5k for the front and then the replacement rotors and pads are very expensive and not as readily available.

A good compromise is the Lou Gigliotti G stop kit. $1,500 gets you a custom bracket to replace your stock front calipers with Wilwood 6 pistons. The calipers, stainless steel brake lines and pads are included. This retains the stock rotors (cheap at NAPA). This also uses a very common pad shape so replacement pads are much cheaper. Not to mention the pads are 20mm thick so they last a long time.

Matt

Silverton

David, any extra information on this subject would be appreciated! I didn't see anything like that on their website.

hisvett

I have always wondered how thick the Wilwood pads are but 80MM, that's just over 3".

HP 01's and BHP pads for stock C5 Calipers are .200 thick (Pad Material) or about 5MM. Perhaps Wilwood's are closer to 8MM? (that would be about 5/16")

MJM

edited....20mm. That's still pretty damn thick.

Matt

0Lambert_Automotive

DRM ducts combined with our duct plate kit pictured below will make a huge differance for track days.



The pistons are a great idea for track days as well. However with the proper cooling you should be able to get away with the stock pistons for a while.

Stainless steel carries a much higher melting point than Aluminum. I am not sure what stainless DRM uses but the melting point of 304 is 2650 (deg F). Aluminum on the other hand is 1090 (deg F).

Keep in mind that of all the items in the braking system the pistons are direct in line when it comes to heat. They are in direct contact with the pads and thus much of that heat energy is transmitted to the piston direct from the pad. The fluid surrounding the piston helps to transmit the heat energy through the caliper.

This is why fluid is a place you do not want to be too overly budget minded when it comes to tracking the car.

Your biggest driving force in all of this is going to be the pad. The friction material of the pad is a big factor in how much heat you can generate during braking. The more aggressive the pad the more heat generated. There are other factors at work here like the horsepower and weight of the car, etc. but you get the idea.

For pad advice I would look to what other C5 Z06 guys with the stock brakes are using successfully, as they will have sized a pad for a car with roughly the same weight and horsepower as you.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

There are a number of things that you can do with the braking system on your C5. Everything from cooling ducts, pads, and BBK's.

Of course there are a number of pads that are on the market today to choose from and this can be a bit intimidating at times to choose a pad that is right. For performance, life, and $ it would be best to have a street pad and a track pad as it is just to expensive to drive on race pads every day. Not to mention the dusting, and noise. Not every pad is extremely expensive and there are some good deals to be had.

Stainless lines, good fluid, and cooling ducts are never a bad idea, on stock brakes or a BBK. Giving the brakes more air to stay cool allows them the ability to dissipate more heat and reduce the chance of brake fade. The stainless lines reduce the line expansion and give you a better pedal feel, and also reduce the chance of failure with heat as rubber lines tend to fail or melt over time and exposure to heat.

We do offer a nice upgrade from the factory units with our G-Stop kit that allows you to keep a stock, or stock replacement rotor and use a much larger caliper and brake pad. Increasing pad life, reducing caliper flex and giving you a much firmer pedal in the process.





The kit includes both calipers, stainless lines, brackets, hardware, and your choice of a Q or E compound brake pad.

This kit was designed with exactly what you are doing in mind. The kit fits the factory Z06 wheels with no spacer, gives you a economical rotor replacement and pads that are more than double stock width to increase life.

Rotors are available as well, and we typically stock the Centric (or StopTech) rotors.


I would be more than happy to talk about any one of the items listed. Shoot me an email, PM, or call me here at the shop. 972-429-1963

hisvett

Oyishdog

So since you guys are right down the street from me, do you allow customers to come in a buy product?

I have been using Wilwood pads for a while now, but want to try something new. Since you are close and 10% forum discount...seems like a no brainer.

Silverton

Anthony,

If you could add a 14" rotor option (e.g., Stoptech) for these calipers, that would be the ideal "budget" BBK for C5s and C6s. IMHO