sothpaw2

I did some searching here and did not find a brake pedal cover I can add about 1/4-3/8" on to the top of my brake pedal. Obviously I can do it myself w/ plywood but I'd rather have something nice looking.

Any body know if there is one? I found the Elite gas pedal but I just want a brake pedal for when the pads are worn & the fluid is a little spongy so that the brake pedal is still higher than the gas even under hard braking.

Thanks

WNeal

Not sure about the pedal but get some better fluid.
SRF or something like that. I would not compensate for "spongy" fluid with a different pedal.
If your fluid boils, you could have a 2x4 nailed to your pedal and you ain't stoppin

sothpaw2

Yeah, I know, I'll only use Motul or Wilwood 600 now. Had a bad experience at the end of the season where I bought some other brand at the track out of convenience as it was supposed to be 600 just like Motul but it was no better than Ate. False advertising if you ask me.

Anyway, even with Wilwood, the pedal has a little give to it after 2 track days. When I get home I find some discolored Motul/Wilwood in the calipers. I even bleed after day 1. So for those last 2 sessions on day 2, I'd still like a taller pedal.

bluemagoo

A quick "squirt" at the bleeders all-round after day 1 (or as needed) might help too.

sothpaw2

It does help, but I'd still be more comfortable with a slightly taller brake pedal.

rfn026

if your fluid is murky/dirty after a track session then you're overheating the fluid. I worked with one of the GM guys and he used to put the car in the air after every session and bleed a very small amount out of each caliper. He was checking the color and if it was nasty we bled the brakes.

I use the Wilwood 600 in my car. A few weeks back I ran the short course at Sebring (the one the Indy car guys use for brake testing) and I lost my pedal during a tire temperature check. The hear just soaked into the calipers and boiled the d*mn fluid. It was really ugly when I bled the brakes.

A taller brake pedal won't solve the problem. You have an overheating problem. If this is a C5 you might want to look at the ZO6 ducting.

Richard Newton
Autocross Performance Handbook

sothpaw2

Thanks Rich,

It's a stock C5 Z06 on stock tires w/ stock pads. I am sure that they are all this way. The pads also taper & get thinner as they wear. With Motul 600 the pedal never goes near the floor but it softens just enough to be noticable. For heel toe under heavy braking, I am barely comfortable with the stock brake pedal height as it is, I get uncomfortable if it moves down in the slightest. The fluid is not that nasty in the calipers but it looks just a touch off color.

With Ate the pedal goes nearer to the floor but still never gets too close and the stopping is fine session after session. Instructors have driven, tested, and confirmed this. It just makes reach the gas pedal challenging.

There as an old thread I found by someone else that used a Razo pedal for this but looking on their site I am not sure if any will fit the Corvette.

But believe me, I have considered an aftermarket improvement to the stock Z06 ducting. Just thought I would experiment w/ the pedal also because it is not great from the start.

0Todd TCE

I've said this elsewhere and I'll repeat it for you that didn't read it or understand.

Wilwood EXP is a very fine fluid. It has a near extreme boiling point. That's all good. The problem is that it is NOT a long term product. Yes it's 600+ out of the bottle but when you mix this with old fluid and or leave it in the system for a long period of time it's effectiveness is severely compromised.

It's BP will not be 620 unless you have thoroughly flushed the system with it. It will not be 620 if it's left in place for a couple months between track days and "topped off". It will not be 620 if it's mixed with other lower BP fluids.

What you are seeing is a highly hygroscopic fluid that with a little as 1% moisture contamination has a rapid drop in BP. That's common with nearly all such brake fluids. For this reason most fluids list a WET BP which can be a yardstick to what is really happening. EXP has a DRY BP of 626, but.... a WET BP of only 417.

Starting with 620, leaving it in place for some months, bleeding it occasionally, and or adding some other fluid from the change can drop the DRY BP to well under it's stated rating. The cross contamination and exposure to atmosphere may well lower its real world BP to under that of some DOT4 fluids. Even if not under it the final value remains far less than 620 and may still be less than a more stable, lower DRY BP fluid that has a longer working life.

Somewhere I have a link to a very extensive listing of fluids. I'll keep looking. For now: here's link to a competitors page with equally or more detailed info than I've supplied just so you don't think I make this stuff up!

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml

drivinhard

Todd, does WW 600 come in anything other than plastic bottles? Is there any truth to the "stick to the metal can" container thing? I've always used various high temp stuff out of metal cans and was surprised when I got some WW 600 that it was in plastic bottles.

BTW to not hijack the original thread...I am running the Elite heel n toe wider go pedal and love it. I think the pedal placement/height is just about dead on. I've never had a low brake pedal even using ATE. My biggest complaint with the C5 is to get in a comfy driving (track) position, I'm so close that my knee's bang the steering column shroud when I'm pedal dancing. I think I need to reset my track seat back for proper pedal/leg position, and then get a custom wheel adapter for my OMP wheel that offsets it away from the dash about 2" or so.

sothpaw2

If I make my own custom brake pedal cover, I might widen it but not much; I have a size 12 shoe (sometimes 13) and no trouble using the width of my foot to reach both pedals especially if I wear a regular tennis shoe.

I even reached the pedals for heel toe in my Chevy Equinox last night

0Todd TCE

Sealed metal containers remain the benchmark for storage. The newer plastic containers are 'supposedly' hermetically sealed with that thin membrane liner inside to prevent the plastic from breathing. I suspect all of this is due more to production and transportation costs than what's best for the fluid. EXP and 570 are available only in these plastic containers. Best you can do; don't stock up and keep them around for a long time.

MungoZ06

Andy ... don't remember ... but if you don't have them now, invest in a set of DRM ducts and spindle mounts ...

fire_n_ice

Making the brake pedal taller seems unorthodox to me. Never heard of anybody doing that. I'd be inclined to work on reducing heat from the system first (i.e. ducting, better pad/rotor combo). Compensating with a taller pedal may be cheaper, but it just doesn't seem safe to me, as it is not addressing the root of the problem.

If I feel the pedal softening up, I take a couple cool-down laps. If the pedal feel doesn't come back after that, I'm into the pits.