Rob's 73

Who has any tips or tricks? I will be doing the install over the winter and just look for lessons learned.

Also

Do I want to install the front upper a arm bushing arm with it set for extra camber?

Thanks

Rob

WBHighwind

X2 I need new bushings before I do another track event and I am seriously considering the Pfadt kit.

gkmccready

0. If your balljoints are like mine, get the nice GM tool. Mine were a PITA to separate.
1. Buy a press.
2. Use the press.
3. Use LOTS of lube.
4. Make sure you get the balljoints torqued up properly.

I did it with a torch for removal, and a bench vice for installation, and it really really sucked.

If you're going to spring for bushings, it may be a good time to snag a camber plate and stud kit, too.

NoOne

Skip the hassle. Dis-assemble the entire car, put parts in car.

$160 to machine shop to swap out bushings for you and about a 4 hour wait.

I like doing all my own work, but for the mess, frustration, and everything else, trust me, $160 to a machine shop is a way better way to go.

I just zip tied the bushings to the right hole, drew some arrows to show orientation, dropped off some lube(ask Pfadt to send extra), and voila.

I had the Pfadt bushing kit and the Hardbar Camber kit.

Use the time that the machine shop has your control arms to install the stud kit for the Camber kit and do some other clean up.

There is no reason to do it yourself...yes I even enjoy doing certain things that are cheaper to take someplace than spending your time on it, but bushings are not one of those things.

I made a massive mess, set my workbench on fire....4x....it sucked After getting 3-4 bushings out it was time to go to the machine shop.

yakisoba

I did one a arm... and bailed for my favorite shop. I had them do the other seven. Way worth the money. I used the Pfadt kit, and it's wonderful. I can actually use a little less camber now, since the bushings do not deflect as much.

mousecatcher

Pretty easy to press out just with a vise. I can't fathom why the default instructions are to use a torch.

ProgGod

Just cut the ends off the old ones with a saw. Then they easily press out.

RAFTRACER

Absolutely......no need for any torches.....fire scares me.

The factory uses ultrasoft bushings for ride compliance, they press out very easily using a bench vise and correct sized sleeves and drivers (ball joint removal kit and large sockets will suffice)

RC45

Yeah - whats up with the torch instructions? I am glad I did mine myself. A $25 3 legged bearing puller from Sears Hardware did the trick. Now granted, this is how I tackled the VP&B bushings, the removal steps would be the same for a project based on the Pfadt items.

mousecatcher

Don't understand the question. The bushing doesn't have any settings.

NoOne

Oh I liked the fire

Keeps the neighbors guessing.

Rob's 73

http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...8/09/c56v2.pdf

Note in the center of the diagram: The pin mount is offset and will allow you to ‘flip’ the pin for more or less camber.

RAFTRACER

Just like the VBP front upper control arm bushings.....My upper bushings shafts are rotated for more negative camber. Not that the cars are camber-limited, but this will allow a more flexible alignment. You can run alot of negative camber and alot of positive caster. The only downside to this is that if you run front wheel back space more than 8.25" then the front wheels like to get into the front lower control arms at full lock. I have my steering stops limited on my car for this and my DRM brake ducts.

mousecatcher

oh yeah! i'd just assumed you install them in the "less camber" position.

varkwso

I have done several of the VBP ones - pretty easy job - with a press...

blkz

Not trying to hijack but what are the plus/minus to poly vs. spherical bearings.Is there a benefit to changing out the factory rubber for either ? What is the cost of one vs.the other. Any info would be appreciated .

trackboss

The pfadt urethane ones are not two piece like the VBP bushings. They are a little tricky to press in, but it can be done. The easiest way to remove the OEM bushings that do not have the cross shafts is to make a tool like listed below and use it in a press. Upper a-arm bushings with the cross shafts can be twisted out in a vice.

http://corvetteforum.shelor.net/bushings/

For the rear shock bushings you need the correct tube size to place under the bushing when pressing out cause the bearing plate will not work.
Spherical bearings are the ultimate way to go, but cost several times more than plastic bushings of any type. Good spherical bearing setup will eliminate bind and deflection. On the C5 the most bind is in the rear lower arm because camber is adjusted there and the arm pivots off the rear pickup point. If a plastic bushing is used there and it is too rigid it will bind more as the suspension cycles. In NASA TT spherical bearings are a huge hit in points so that is a disadvantage. Also, they transmit noise to the chassis because of the solid connection. So any sounds from the tires, wheels, bearings, brakes, road, etc. will travel through that connection and may be heard in the cockpit. That's only a problem if noise bothers the occupants. OEM mfg's use rubber specifically to insulate against that.

blkz

Thanks trackboss.

mousecatcher

If you just use a vise they come out very easily and you don't need to make a special tool to bridge the other end of the a-arm.

RAFTRACER

Thats what I use ....the bench vise. Fire stays inside the engine.