RedLS1GTO

I searched on here and came up with about a dozen threads on C4 Tow hooks. Unfortunately, not a single one of them seemed to have an answer. Is there anybody out there with a proven idea where to put a tow hook on my 96? I would prefer not to cut the body for obvious reasons. I was thinking about going somewhere straight through the opening under the stock part of the bumper. Thanks in advance.

NASCAR314

I'm searching as well, cannot find a decent way without cutting a slot in the body

Mojave

There is a member working on a C4 hook that bolts onto the lower radiator support frame, but I forget who it was. He is almost done, and I'd expect he is going to make a post when they are ready for sale.

WYCKD 1

Thanks for the reminder. I knew I forgot something on my winter mod list. Just sent an email to the raceshop completing the work to see what he comes up with for installing tow hooks. I don't want to cut the body either.


lauri

Sidney004

It is Z07Coupe, he is making them; PM him if you are interested in buying them or inquiring on how they attach. I will be getting one from him when they are ready.

OOPS!

Was I called?;-)

I am welding the towing hook as shown in the photograph.
Please use the rope that is not metallic so as not to destroy the front spoiler when
pulling it.
There is no problem at all though I am towed many times.

Z07coupe

As noted over a month ago, I have been working on a front tow hook for the C 4. I have made up several units, test fit, and they are now on the way to be plated. Be patient. I am a frustrated C 4 owner and a working man, not a manufacturer. This hook (eyelet) is made of 3/16 (or 7 gauge) steel, CNC laser cut, press bent, and soon to be electroless nickel plated (I think). It is formed to fit around three sides of the skid bar assembly (if that is the proper name), where the thick wall square tubing is doubled. It is fastened in place by two rivet nuts / bolts. You will have to cut a slit in the rubber valance so it can extend past any area to prevent damage.
I have been extremely cautious (conservative) when describing this unit to everyone, so that I am not accused of misleading anyone. We all know that a non thinking tow truck operator at the track can destroy an anvil, so I am explaining that a hard jerk on the line, or a deeply mired car sideways in the mud could potentially cause damage. This should fit all later C 4s, but I understand that the early C 4s did not look quite like this underneath. I don't know what years. If this is the answer to your problem, PM me.








If OOPS! can be pulled many times with one eyelet welded on the side of that assembly, where the majority of stress will be applied on just one side mounting point, I am assuming that by distributing the stress over the entire assembly would present less opportunity for damage. I have been assured that for proper tows and winching onto a trailer, that this unit should be more than sufficient.

jaa1992

I likey!!! Put me in line for one when you are ready to sell a few!

c4cruiser

I've always heard that pulling the car using the radiator support could be risky depending on the angle of the cable in relation to the car. The only attaching point for the core support that has any strength is at the frame crossmember. But straight line towing where the wheels roll freely should not be a an issue at all with this design.

As far as using nutserts and bolts, is the core support material thick enough to hold them? Would having a third nutsert help with strength? Maybe a bolt or two that is vertical where the bracket goes under the support?

There are some sanctioning bodies that require towing eyes or hooks to be painted in a high-visibility color so you might consider a powdercoating option in red or orange. Even a plating process will work and people could just paint them as required.

This is certainly an interesting idea and it looks like it would be fairly easy to install. I'll have to check my 87 to see if the layout of the core support bar is similar to yours.

BTW, I did get your PM and spaced over answering it :o Thanks for posting the pics. I'm definitely interested

Z07coupe

Hey C4cruiser,
Others, whom opinions I respect, have also said the same thing. How about two vertical nutserts and bolts in the front tube to greatly increase the strength. Especially lateral strength. That will be done to my prototypes before plating. Great idea. On the powder coating question. I will look into that, but I was concerned that the inner edges of the hole and the outer edges of the unit would become worn and chipped, causing a rust problem. The nickel plating was as much for protection as it was for looks. But, if having an orange (or other color) powder coat is what is wanted, I bet it could be accomplished. Or even powder coating the tip, from the hole forward, over the nickel plating, if possible. Most owners may never need to be towed out of the gravel, but yet they may use this unit every day to winch the car onto the trailer.
I appreciate your constructive suggestions.
payeager@everestkc.net

abc 123

Also, the bad part is with the hook that low and you get stuck in the kitty litter, you are going to play hell getting to the hook.

rfn026

I like the idea. I haven't been in the gravel for a few years but the Homestead gravel pits are just waiting on me to make a mistake.

Now if someone can come up with a hook for the back we're in great shape.

Richard Newton
Daily Race Car Blog

BrianCunningham

No need to cut a hole
Put it in verticle
They make a nice fence to direct more air to the radiator.

eogel

Timing is everything. With Brian having posted the picture of my tow hooks, I can show you more, since I have the front bumper off to do some other work. There is a tow hook on each side of the front. One picture shows how the tow hook is welded to the bottom of the front rail. If connected only here, it is subject to flexing and or twisting if pulled from an angle. Note that you WILL eventually be pulled from an angle. A steel square tube was welded between the two tow hooks to address this. It is shown in the other picture.

This is a dedicated ’86 car raced in NASA ST2 and SCCA TCC / ITE / ITO…. and they have been used.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Ed

Brett Richmond

Would this work as to being used to pull it up on a trailer without damaging the frame where it connects as to stress on the frame??

Z07coupe

This unit can be used to winch the Corvette onto a trailer. It will withstand properly executed straight pulls. Even angled pulls providing the front wheels are pointed in the same direction. I am not promoting this as an indestructable unit. A careless tow truck operator would be able to cause damage to your vehicle even if hooked onto the frame crossmember. I have pulled this car onto the trailer a half dozen times using a poorly designed hook that was secured to the same support structure. I would not say or imply that it should be used as an anchoring point to secure to a trailer.
I am redesigning it slightly. I will add 1" to the width in the rear 'hook' portion, and will have three bolt holes to vertically bolt to the square tubing. This way it will not require any nutserts. There is sufficient room above the tube to secure with a washer and nut. The rear holes will still be in the unit, but should not be needed, due to the 'hook' portion and the 3 bolts securing the unit. PM me for any further information.

Sidney004

Just installed my tow hook from Z07Coupe and it fit great. Thanks Paul. If anyone is interested in getting a C4 tow hook, contact Paul. I hope not to use it, but I have got one!

Richard EVO

I want one of these tow hooks! Where can I order it and what is the price? Thanks!