Ball Joint Boot Replacement - C6Z
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ball Joint Boot Replacement - C6Z
I had a torn boot on my upper ball joint and ordered the Energy Suspension boots from Summit hoping they would fit but don't think they do...
The problem is the base of the boot is too large to fit snugly around the lip of the base of the ball joint. When I try to put the metal retaining ring around the boot it pops the boot right out.
Anyone have any ideas? It seems like a few people w/C6Z's have replaced the boot without having to buy a new knuckle....
The problem is the base of the boot is too large to fit snugly around the lip of the base of the ball joint. When I try to put the metal retaining ring around the boot it pops the boot right out.
Anyone have any ideas? It seems like a few people w/C6Z's have replaced the boot without having to buy a new knuckle....
#2
Instructor
Member Since: Mar 2007
Location: Los Altos CA
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I haven't done this, but if you attach the knuckle to the upper control arm, I would think that it would be held up and then you could maybe put the clip around and have it hold like it is supposed to?
#3
Race Director
I the aftermarket boots will work with the retaining rings, but I thought the diameter was correct to make them an "interference" fit. Once you attach it back to the spindle, the force should help hold it in place. I bought a set, but decided to steal the boots from my spare parts.
Usually, if a boot is simply burned or torn, I rotate the bad side away from the rotor, pack it full of grease, then wrap it with header wrap/tape/whatever. Just wrapping it usually reduces the radiant heat transfer enough to keep the grease in.
Usually, if a boot is simply burned or torn, I rotate the bad side away from the rotor, pack it full of grease, then wrap it with header wrap/tape/whatever. Just wrapping it usually reduces the radiant heat transfer enough to keep the grease in.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'll put the new one on and reattach the knuckle and see how it goes.
Thanks for the input!
#5
Race Director
how did you tear the upper boot???? The lower is the one that get's cooked and is commonly replaced. I don't know if they are the same, or if that is perhaps part of your problem???
you can often find old spindles on ebay for next to nothing, and usually the boots (from street cars) are in perfect condition. That's how I loaded up with spare suspension parts for my NASA car (just need a "spare" spare engine)
you can often find old spindles on ebay for next to nothing, and usually the boots (from street cars) are in perfect condition. That's how I loaded up with spare suspension parts for my NASA car (just need a "spare" spare engine)
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Tore it with a damn pickle fork... It wasn't really that bad and should have just left it alone but like I said, I had some time off over Christmas and figured 'what the hell' I'll try to replace it.
Good call on ebay - I didn't even think of that. I'll check it out.
Good call on ebay - I didn't even think of that. I'll check it out.
#8
Race Director
Since the C5 & C6 spindles are the same, you can get replacement ball upper ball joints from rockauto.
I have one left over from another job that I could sell you from $30.
Drop me a PM and I can get you some more info.
Tony
I have one left over from another job that I could sell you from $30.
Drop me a PM and I can get you some more info.
Tony
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yes, the car's under warranty and no, I did not try that route. I track the car and was replacing the upper A arm because the bushings were getting pushed out and tore the ball joint boot taking it out of the A-arm. The way I see it, it's not really a warranty issue but more of a maintenance issue as a result of tracking the car. I would have a tough time walking into the dealer saying "uh, my ball joint boot is ripped and I don't know what happened..."
More than that though, I actually enjoy working on the car and it's a fairly inexpensive fix. Even if I have to end up buying a new steering knuckle it's only a $120 part and hardly worth the aggravation of taking it to the dealer and leaving it there.
More than that though, I actually enjoy working on the car and it's a fairly inexpensive fix. Even if I have to end up buying a new steering knuckle it's only a $120 part and hardly worth the aggravation of taking it to the dealer and leaving it there.
#10
Le Mans Master
[QUOTE=darrahc;1568490209]Yes, the car's under warranty and no, I did not try that route. I track the car and was replacing the upper A arm because the bushings were getting pushed out and tore the ball joint boot taking it out of the A-arm. The way I see it, it's not really a warranty issue but more of a maintenance issue as a result of tracking the car. I would have a tough time walking into the dealer saying "uh, my ball joint boot is ripped and I don't know what happened..."QUOTE]
I hear ya...I had the same EXACT problem, bushing got pushed out of the A-Arm, ball joint torn up and burnt from excessive heat. I have GMPP, so that could be the difference, but I brought it back to the dealer and they fixed it with no questions asked. You never know unless you ask. Now that I remember, they told me they had to replace the entire A-arm as they don't press bushings at the dealership, and just got the whole assembly brand new and bolted it in place.
I hear ya...I had the same EXACT problem, bushing got pushed out of the A-Arm, ball joint torn up and burnt from excessive heat. I have GMPP, so that could be the difference, but I brought it back to the dealer and they fixed it with no questions asked. You never know unless you ask. Now that I remember, they told me they had to replace the entire A-arm as they don't press bushings at the dealership, and just got the whole assembly brand new and bolted it in place.