R Mackow

OK. I just got my Phadt bushing kit delivered. Once the temperature in my garage goes up substantially above 10 deg F, I will jump into this project. Then car goes to Kurt at Phoenix for alignment.
If anyone has 2 cents to add about: getting old rubber out and pushing new bushings in, I would appreciate it!

davidfarmer

drill holes through the old ones, then beat them out. If you have a press just press them out. takes time, but it's a labor of love anyway!

mousecatcher

it's pfadt, not phadt, and this was just discussed. here, i'll do the work of hitting the search button for you.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...g-install.html

R Mackow

Thankx for the spellin korrection.

mousecatcher

.

ErnieN85

Wise guy

You going to Pocono CVCC?

geerookie

I've done it both ways, torch and cut the ends off then press out.
They do press out easily after you cut the ends off but cutting the ends off is a PAIN.
I got a $13 propane torch from the hardware store and then just directed the flame into the center of the sleeve to heat the metal up. Just when it started to smoke I took a screwdriver and pushed the metal sleeve out. After that the rubber bushing just pushed out with little effort. This was MUCH easier than cutting and pressing. I was worried about flames etc. but if you keep the torch on the inside of the metal sleeve no flames and burning rubber.
Pressing in the new bushings is another story!
LOTS of Lube! I did it with a vise and blocks of wood. It was a pain and took a bunch of patience. With a press it would be very easy.
If I do it again I will buy a $119 benchtop press!

flink

You can get the center bit out with a hole saw on a drill. 1-1/4"
worked nicely on my GTO.



I then removed the jackets by cutting 90% of the way through with a hacksaw
then hammering a screwdriver blade up between the arm and the jacket, under
the hacksaw cut.

mousecatcher

but why would you want to? they come right out with the sleeve in place.

mousecatcher

really? mine were very easy to press both in and out with a vise. no cutting required to get them out, and didn't need any lube to get the new ones in, just a very thin finger smear on the leading edge to help it go in straight.

jordan@pfadtracing

That's interesting. The Vette's don't use an outer shell, the bushings go directly into the arms and I wouldn't recommend doing it that way. The factory bushings are actually relatively easy to get out. On the front uppers put the dog bone into a vise and twist, all the other locations can be removed by using a socket. Place it in a vise and pull/twist toward the socket. Clean the I.D. of the arms to remove any remaining material.

The new bushings can then be pressed in and the inner sleeves installed second. Make sure you use lube on the outer portion of the bushing, it will help when installing. You should install the majority of the grease between the I.D. of the bushing and the O.D. of the sleeve as this is what moves. Our bushings are graphite impregnated which helps with lubrication as well.

Please feel free to call or email us anytime you have questions.

geerookie

The lots of lube wasn't to get them in, just to prevent future squeaking.
As far as getting them in and especially out, that was hard.
Probably the difference between an '08 from CA and a '99 in NJ. My guess is that my bushings were much less compliant than yours due to age.
The hardest part on the install was keeping the bushing square with the hole in the A-arm while trying to turn the handle on the vise. Once it started it went pretty smooth and easy.

flink

Ah, OK. The Aussie bushings use steel or nylon jackets and require a tactical nuke.
Many people burn the guts out, but a saw is so much neater..

mousecatcher

ah. i was specifically told by pfadt NOT to lube the outer part of the bushing, ie the part that contacts the control arm which is what you would lube if we're talking about control arm assembly. the bushing is NOT designed to rotate in the control arm. only the amount of lube necessary for assembly (none if you can do it) is required. now when you put the sleeves in, yes they do get lube lube lube.

i was told this in direct response to my specific question, should i lube the bushings when pressing them in.

hadn't thought about that ... i could see that making a big difference.

yeah, that was tricky. that is why i used the finger smear of lube, to avoid as much friction as possible just to get it started square. i just used lithium grease though, not the poly lube.

mousecatcher

Jordan, I think you or maybe Aaron gave me a slightly different answer, anyway even the above statement seems to amount to: only enough lube for assembly, which in my case turned out to be negligible.

geerookie

Hmmm.... I didn't get that memo. I lubed the crap out of everything.
Now one season later they are making a bunch of noise. Seemed to be the sway bars more than the bushings at first but now it's both!
Of course some of it could be that it's only 15 degrees around here!
They seem to be quieter when it warms up or I drive for longer periods of time.
I'm toying with the idea of pulling all of them and going to spherical bearings.

mousecatcher

on a street car??

geerookie

Sort of....It's on the track 20+ days a year. Maybe 30 this year.
I drive it to and from the track and for work once in awhile.

JaGsC5

You failed to properly capitalize the "I" in the words "it's" and "i'll" plus the word "here" should be capitalized as well. Atleast you almost properly punctuated your sentence. Lighted up a little bud!

mousecatcher

i was just correcting him because it's a proper name, but more importantly because it breaks search.

must ... resist ... temptation ... to ... correct ... your ... post ...