Might need Camber rods with Spherical ends, what do you think?
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 1999
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 8,522
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Might need Camber rods with Spherical ends, what do you think?
Here is a shot of me, and a GTR for comparison (I know its no real comparison), but I am showing that the rear is going from a static 1.7 negative camber to positive at about 45 mph on a 90 degree turn entrance. and I was quicker than him, and he is SCCA chief.
#2
Racer
Member Since: Nov 2007
Location: Yankton South Dakota
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That is an awesome picture showing exactly what your suspension is doing. Cool...
You still have negative camber in the front atleast! Which is doing the majority of the work.
Does your car have poly bushings? That might make it more livable on the street over Spherical.
This reminds me back in college when i did a study on Suspension Deflections Vs. Traction using some goodyear tire data I had etc...
You still have negative camber in the front atleast! Which is doing the majority of the work.
Does your car have poly bushings? That might make it more livable on the street over Spherical.
This reminds me back in college when i did a study on Suspension Deflections Vs. Traction using some goodyear tire data I had etc...
#4
Tech Contributor
#8
Having stared at that photo multiple times, I'm unable to convince myself
that it has gone into positive camber. There's quite a lot of tire rollover
and I suspect that this is an optical delusion.
Have you any other photographs?
Have you inspected the tire wear?
A skidpan and tire pyrometer would tell...
that it has gone into positive camber. There's quite a lot of tire rollover
and I suspect that this is an optical delusion.
Have you any other photographs?
Have you inspected the tire wear?
A skidpan and tire pyrometer would tell...
#9
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 1999
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 8,522
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Having stared at that photo multiple times, I'm unable to convince myself
that it has gone into positive camber. There's quite a lot of tire rollover
and I suspect that this is an optical delusion.
Have you any other photographs?
Have you inspected the tire wear?
A skidpan and tire pyrometer would tell...
that it has gone into positive camber. There's quite a lot of tire rollover
and I suspect that this is an optical delusion.
Have you any other photographs?
Have you inspected the tire wear?
A skidpan and tire pyrometer would tell...
Here is a shot with .5 negative camber at 15 mph, softer springs etc.
And this at the same turn opposite side
#10
Melting Slicks
Something else to consider....if you care. Anything in excess of non metallic rear camber control rod bushings will bump you ought of BSP and into SM2, Opening pandora's box on emptying your wallet to be competitive. BSP can be expensive , SM2 can be absurd $$$$.
Do you already have poly bushings ???? Have you checked the rear tie rod ends and wheel bearings ???? Another thing that can cause camber change is rear differential/limited slip wear creating play , excessive clearance on the side yokes to center differential pin. Any of these things will alow soome less than favorable results.
Do you already have poly bushings ???? Have you checked the rear tie rod ends and wheel bearings ???? Another thing that can cause camber change is rear differential/limited slip wear creating play , excessive clearance on the side yokes to center differential pin. Any of these things will alow soome less than favorable results.
#11
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 1999
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 8,522
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Something else to consider....if you care. Anything in excess of non metallic rear camber control rod bushings will bump you ought of BSP and into SM2, Opening pandora's box on emptying your wallet to be competitive. BSP can be expensive , SM2 can be absurd $$$$.
Do you already have poly bushings ???? Have you checked the rear tie rod ends and wheel bearings ???? Another thing that can cause camber change is rear differential/limited slip wear creating play , excessive clearance on the side yokes to center differential pin. Any of these things will alow soome less than favorable results.
Do you already have poly bushings ???? Have you checked the rear tie rod ends and wheel bearings ???? Another thing that can cause camber change is rear differential/limited slip wear creating play , excessive clearance on the side yokes to center differential pin. Any of these things will alow soome less than favorable results.
Wheel Bearings are a good thing to check too as they arent that old, maybe 4 years old, and very few miles, but they are BCA bearings, which I had one blow out grease within a few weeks and had to replace it.
SM2. I am not worried, as money grows on trees. Just kidding. I just want the car to drive safely, and to let all the problems be within the driver. I dont have the cash to be competitve anymore, but I will play, just to drive.
Heck, I still have BFG KD's
#12
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Posts: 30,596
Received 238 Likes
on
166 Posts
Cool shot.
The rear could be jacking on you, which would kill the camber
Do you have adjustable shocks?
If so, try cranking up the rebound.
If that doesn't work, I'd just crank up the rear camber, which on a C4 is way easier in the rear, and see what happens balance wise.
The rear could be jacking on you, which would kill the camber
Do you have adjustable shocks?
If so, try cranking up the rebound.
If that doesn't work, I'd just crank up the rear camber, which on a C4 is way easier in the rear, and see what happens balance wise.
#13
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 1999
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 8,522
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Cool shot.
The rear could be jacking on you, which would kill the camber
Do you have adjustable shocks?
If so, try cranking up the rebound.
If that doesn't work, I'd just crank up the rear camber, which on a C4 is way easier in the rear, and see what happens balance wise.
The rear could be jacking on you, which would kill the camber
Do you have adjustable shocks?
If so, try cranking up the rebound.
If that doesn't work, I'd just crank up the rear camber, which on a C4 is way easier in the rear, and see what happens balance wise.
Rear Camber is max at 1.7 due to tire rub, and 2.2 front, both negative of course.
#14
Race Director
Is the rear camber still at 1.7°?