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Might need Camber rods with Spherical ends, what do you think?

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Old 01-30-2009, 02:25 AM
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steve40th
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Default Might need Camber rods with Spherical ends, what do you think?

Here is a shot of me, and a GTR for comparison (I know its no real comparison), but I am showing that the rear is going from a static 1.7 negative camber to positive at about 45 mph on a 90 degree turn entrance. and I was quicker than him, and he is SCCA chief.

Old 01-30-2009, 11:52 AM
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RusherRacing
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That is an awesome picture showing exactly what your suspension is doing. Cool...

You still have negative camber in the front atleast! Which is doing the majority of the work.

Does your car have poly bushings? That might make it more livable on the street over Spherical.

This reminds me back in college when i did a study on Suspension Deflections Vs. Traction using some goodyear tire data I had etc...
Old 01-30-2009, 08:26 PM
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Yes, I have Polys, but the eccentric bolt may not be holding?
Old 01-30-2009, 10:40 PM
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96GS#007
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Originally Posted by steve40th
Yes, I have Polys, but the eccentric bolt may not be holding?
I would think that if the bolt isn't holding your static settings would be way out of whack after a run or two.
Old 01-30-2009, 10:50 PM
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RickF
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Originally Posted by steve40th
and a GTR for comparison
Poor guy just blew his warranty.
Old 01-30-2009, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RickF
Poor guy just blew his warranty.
He had no plates yet, so they would have to figure out who he is. SCCA wont let anyone without being registered in the pits too. So they would have to catch him leaving. Lots of people tape their plates.
Old 01-30-2009, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
I would think that if the bolt isn't holding your static settings would be way out of whack after a run or two.
True, than what would cause this to go from -1.7 to positive xx camber
Old 01-31-2009, 02:42 AM
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Having stared at that photo multiple times, I'm unable to convince myself
that it has gone into positive camber. There's quite a lot of tire rollover
and I suspect that this is an optical delusion.

Have you any other photographs?

Have you inspected the tire wear?

A skidpan and tire pyrometer would tell...
Old 01-31-2009, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by flink
Having stared at that photo multiple times, I'm unable to convince myself
that it has gone into positive camber. There's quite a lot of tire rollover
and I suspect that this is an optical delusion.

Have you any other photographs?

Have you inspected the tire wear?

A skidpan and tire pyrometer would tell...
Tire wear shows the tire hitting the lip of the fenderwell a little.
Here is a shot with .5 negative camber at 15 mph, softer springs etc.

And this at the same turn opposite side
Old 01-31-2009, 09:16 AM
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RAFTRACER
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Something else to consider....if you care. Anything in excess of non metallic rear camber control rod bushings will bump you ought of BSP and into SM2, Opening pandora's box on emptying your wallet to be competitive. BSP can be expensive , SM2 can be absurd $$$$.

Do you already have poly bushings ???? Have you checked the rear tie rod ends and wheel bearings ???? Another thing that can cause camber change is rear differential/limited slip wear creating play , excessive clearance on the side yokes to center differential pin. Any of these things will alow soome less than favorable results.
Old 01-31-2009, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by RAFTRACER
Something else to consider....if you care. Anything in excess of non metallic rear camber control rod bushings will bump you ought of BSP and into SM2, Opening pandora's box on emptying your wallet to be competitive. BSP can be expensive , SM2 can be absurd $$$$.

Do you already have poly bushings ???? Have you checked the rear tie rod ends and wheel bearings ???? Another thing that can cause camber change is rear differential/limited slip wear creating play , excessive clearance on the side yokes to center differential pin. Any of these things will alow soome less than favorable results.
Yes I have Poly buhsings in the camber rods and dog bones only. The Tie Rods are old, 140k miles old. The diff isnt that old and is an IKERDS built D44, with about 10 Kmiles on it.
Wheel Bearings are a good thing to check too as they arent that old, maybe 4 years old, and very few miles, but they are BCA bearings, which I had one blow out grease within a few weeks and had to replace it.
SM2. I am not worried, as money grows on trees. Just kidding. I just want the car to drive safely, and to let all the problems be within the driver. I dont have the cash to be competitve anymore, but I will play, just to drive.
Heck, I still have BFG KD's
Old 01-31-2009, 02:46 PM
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Cool shot.

The rear could be jacking on you, which would kill the camber

Do you have adjustable shocks?
If so, try cranking up the rebound.

If that doesn't work, I'd just crank up the rear camber, which on a C4 is way easier in the rear, and see what happens balance wise.
Old 01-31-2009, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianCunningham
Cool shot.

The rear could be jacking on you, which would kill the camber

Do you have adjustable shocks?
If so, try cranking up the rebound.

If that doesn't work, I'd just crank up the rear camber, which on a C4 is way easier in the rear, and see what happens balance wise.
I have HAL/QA1's. I have them set to 10-12.
Rear Camber is max at 1.7 due to tire rub, and 2.2 front, both negative of course.
Old 01-31-2009, 03:43 PM
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Is the rear camber still at 1.7°?
Old 01-31-2009, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
Is the rear camber still at 1.7°?
Yes

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