ACP/World Challenge splitter
#1
Burning Brakes
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ACP/World Challenge splitter
Alright guys, I know a few of us on the forum have these things. and I'm actually dieing to know how they are mounted! After removing the bumper a few times, I've noticed that there is not a lot of room in there! So how does it mount? is it as simple as bolting on?
Thanks!
-Ross
Thanks!
-Ross
#2
Melting Slicks
Splitter or undertray.....Or splitter and undertray....????
ACP makes all of the components but the mounting of which is up to you. I think that you will need the ACP or other manufactures nose / bumper cover that will accept his splitter panel......It does not just bolt to the factory bumper cover. the undertray is another story and ACP feels that it is OK to just mount the undertray to the front of the splitter and then build to cute little clamps that mount to the sway bar moutings in the rear . I felt that the way was sub-standard so James Forbis and I made our own mounts for the undertray that postively mount it rigid and is adjustable for rake/clearance.
If you are going to do this you should re-engineer the whole front of the car and rake the radiator and get a vented hood to process the air properly, other wise the front of your car will end up looking like a blowfish. James and I built jigs for the brackets which rake the radiator and hold/support/adjust the undertray. We haven't made any since we did our cars but we could........
ACP makes all of the components but the mounting of which is up to you. I think that you will need the ACP or other manufactures nose / bumper cover that will accept his splitter panel......It does not just bolt to the factory bumper cover. the undertray is another story and ACP feels that it is OK to just mount the undertray to the front of the splitter and then build to cute little clamps that mount to the sway bar moutings in the rear . I felt that the way was sub-standard so James Forbis and I made our own mounts for the undertray that postively mount it rigid and is adjustable for rake/clearance.
If you are going to do this you should re-engineer the whole front of the car and rake the radiator and get a vented hood to process the air properly, other wise the front of your car will end up looking like a blowfish. James and I built jigs for the brackets which rake the radiator and hold/support/adjust the undertray. We haven't made any since we did our cars but we could........
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3horsepack (01-31-2022)
#3
Burning Brakes
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Splitter or undertray.....Or splitter and undertray....????
ACP makes all of the components but the mounting of which is up to you. I think that you will need the ACP or other manufactures nose / bumper cover that will accept his splitter panel......It does not just bolt to the factory bumper cover. the undertray is another story and ACP feels that it is OK to just mount the undertray to the front of the splitter and then build to cute little clamps that mount to the sway bar moutings in the rear . I felt that the way was sub-standard so James Forbis and I made our own mounts for the undertray that postively mount it rigid and is adjustable for rake/clearance.
If you are going to do this you should re-engineer the whole front of the car and rake the radiator and get a vented hood to process the air properly, other wise the front of your car will end up looking like a blowfish. James and I built jigs for the brackets which rake the radiator and hold/support/adjust the undertray. We haven't made any since we did our cars but we could........
ACP makes all of the components but the mounting of which is up to you. I think that you will need the ACP or other manufactures nose / bumper cover that will accept his splitter panel......It does not just bolt to the factory bumper cover. the undertray is another story and ACP feels that it is OK to just mount the undertray to the front of the splitter and then build to cute little clamps that mount to the sway bar moutings in the rear . I felt that the way was sub-standard so James Forbis and I made our own mounts for the undertray that postively mount it rigid and is adjustable for rake/clearance.
If you are going to do this you should re-engineer the whole front of the car and rake the radiator and get a vented hood to process the air properly, other wise the front of your car will end up looking like a blowfish. James and I built jigs for the brackets which rake the radiator and hold/support/adjust the undertray. We haven't made any since we did our cars but we could........
I know ACP sells a "bolt on" nose that pfadt runs, and I think I could fab up a splitter but, my problem is I dont want it to be "fake." I want the splitter to actually provide a little downforce, and because of that I dont just want to bolt everything onto the nose, and have that big piece of plastic flex from the load.
#4
Team Owner
ACP nose under-tray and splitter is very solid. How do I know ? I had my car on the trailer and when in a rush to start it and popped my hand off the clutch. My car revs up when started the first few seconds. It hit the tire rack uprights 4" channel Did some damage but nothing to bad. It would take a lot of work to fab up a proper CF undertray like Kerry makes. Way cheaper to pay for his.
Making some good down-force is worth a bunch of HP
RR I would be interested in the rad lay down brackets if you do decide to sell them.
Making some good down-force is worth a bunch of HP
RR I would be interested in the rad lay down brackets if you do decide to sell them.
Last edited by John Shiels; 02-19-2009 at 06:33 PM.
#5
Former Vendor
The front fascia is pretty much a bolt on, you do have to drill the holes and do a little trimming. The undertray takes some fab work though. I have seen James and Danny's mount and it is first rate. I aggree, tilt the radiator forward. Better air flow and you have much better access to the front on the engine. You need to modify the radiator mount anyway because the undertray doesnt clear the mount.
You will need a wing to balance out the splitter.
You will need a wing to balance out the splitter.
#6
Race Director
I can be as simple or complicated as you'd like.
The Fascia is a bolt-on replacement...you may have to drill a few holes, but it goes on just like stock. The splitter lip is built into it.
They bolt the undertray to the splitter, every 5-6" or so to sandwich the splitter to the undertray. Then what I do is run a few bolts through the splitter, right through the "nerf" bars/radiator support. That pulls it up tight, and is quite strong.
For a 2" splitter, you shouldn't need any further mounting. For a C5, your stock radiator supports should fit fine. I ran this setup in World Challenge for 3 years with the radiator in the OEM location.
You can get these parts in fiberglass, vacuum bagged fiberglass, or carbon......in order of cost!
The other option is to get an ad-on splitter setup like Thom Bohlman has. You don't get the larger radiator opening, but it is pretty much just as junctional aero-wise.
The Fascia is a bolt-on replacement...you may have to drill a few holes, but it goes on just like stock. The splitter lip is built into it.
They bolt the undertray to the splitter, every 5-6" or so to sandwich the splitter to the undertray. Then what I do is run a few bolts through the splitter, right through the "nerf" bars/radiator support. That pulls it up tight, and is quite strong.
For a 2" splitter, you shouldn't need any further mounting. For a C5, your stock radiator supports should fit fine. I ran this setup in World Challenge for 3 years with the radiator in the OEM location.
You can get these parts in fiberglass, vacuum bagged fiberglass, or carbon......in order of cost!
The other option is to get an ad-on splitter setup like Thom Bohlman has. You don't get the larger radiator opening, but it is pretty much just as junctional aero-wise.
#7
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
Splitter or undertray.....Or splitter and undertray....????
ACP makes all of the components but the mounting of which is up to you. I think that you will need the ACP or other manufactures nose / bumper cover that will accept his splitter panel......It does not just bolt to the factory bumper cover. the undertray is another story and ACP feels that it is OK to just mount the undertray to the front of the splitter and then build to cute little clamps that mount to the sway bar moutings in the rear . I felt that the way was sub-standard so James Forbis and I made our own mounts for the undertray that postively mount it rigid and is adjustable for rake/clearance.
If you are going to do this you should re-engineer the whole front of the car and rake the radiator and get a vented hood to process the air properly, other wise the front of your car will end up looking like a blowfish. James and I built jigs for the brackets which rake the radiator and hold/support/adjust the undertray. We haven't made any since we did our cars but we could........
ACP makes all of the components but the mounting of which is up to you. I think that you will need the ACP or other manufactures nose / bumper cover that will accept his splitter panel......It does not just bolt to the factory bumper cover. the undertray is another story and ACP feels that it is OK to just mount the undertray to the front of the splitter and then build to cute little clamps that mount to the sway bar moutings in the rear . I felt that the way was sub-standard so James Forbis and I made our own mounts for the undertray that postively mount it rigid and is adjustable for rake/clearance.
If you are going to do this you should re-engineer the whole front of the car and rake the radiator and get a vented hood to process the air properly, other wise the front of your car will end up looking like a blowfish. James and I built jigs for the brackets which rake the radiator and hold/support/adjust the undertray. We haven't made any since we did our cars but we could........
/Nik
#8
Burning Brakes
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I guess the next big question, is how easy is it to take off? I already need ghetto wood ramps to get the car onto my trailer (and even to jack her up from the front and rear sub frames), so having something "easily" removeable would be really nice.
#9
Race Director
you will need ghetto ramps!
here we were running a 4" splitter, mounted under the yellow fascia. That is why I added the center support. Usually you have the fascia with the splitter built-in, then the undertray simply slides up under the fascia and you sandwich it together. For the normal 2" splitter (the way the fascia comes), it is an easy install.
Also notice the aftermarket fascia has a larger opening for the radiator than the stock unit which goes straight across.
In 01-03, we weren't allowed to run vented hoods, so while we did stack air (required hood pins), it was still very effective aerodynamically. I actually have wind tunnel data here somewhere......
here we were running a 4" splitter, mounted under the yellow fascia. That is why I added the center support. Usually you have the fascia with the splitter built-in, then the undertray simply slides up under the fascia and you sandwich it together. For the normal 2" splitter (the way the fascia comes), it is an easy install.
Also notice the aftermarket fascia has a larger opening for the radiator than the stock unit which goes straight across.
In 01-03, we weren't allowed to run vented hoods, so while we did stack air (required hood pins), it was still very effective aerodynamically. I actually have wind tunnel data here somewhere......
Last edited by davidfarmer; 02-19-2009 at 08:59 PM.
#10
Melting Slicks
Vector is right....if you do the front end of the car you must also so something with the rear.....espeically with the 4" splitter.
#11
Team Owner
I have a tilt trailer, 8' aluminum ramps. and 3' piece of wood to get on trailer with 4" splitter. I can't pop mine on and off to easy. I think RR made his for race conditions and fast removal.
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65BSPCORVETTE (06-03-2018)
#12
Burning Brakes
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I do ghetto well, but I'll have wally help, he is the master of ghetto!
Oh, this sounds PERFECT, you will have a PM shortly!
yea, my car is a race car as well, or at least thats what the cops think I actually want to remove it so I dont need it to be on my trailer to get work done to it. Getting my low profile jack under the car is enough work as it is, i dont want it any more complicated.
That was another design requirement of James and mine. It was an absolute must that the thing be removeable for the same reasons. Our splitter/undertray can be removed in about 2 minutes and takes slightly longer to put back on and get adjusted favorably. We both run the 4" splitter and undertray. I actually bought and built the 2" one first and then we did the 4"ers....When we ordered our undertrays from ACP we had them add some sandwiched aluminum into the core to provide more solid moutings for our undertray pick ups. They are very strong....I can literally jump up and down on the front lip without things breaking. L98 Terror watched me do this to James car, and he almost crapped. He wasn't willing to try that test on his.The only thing that moves is the front suspension in a downward fashion. James even accidentally crash tested the splitter/undertray assy by going straight in ,shovel end first (splitter) into China Beach at Mid-Ohio at 90 mph or so as a result of brake failure. It sh#$-canned the splitter and undertray, but the assy did not turn into a ski under the front tires. The mountings brackets yielded rearward about 2 inches and that was it.......Inadvertant destructive testing is interesting ...as long as it all ends well. In this case it did.
Vector is right....if you do the front end of the car you must also so something with the rear.....espeically with the 4" splitter.
Vector is right....if you do the front end of the car you must also so something with the rear.....espeically with the 4" splitter.
yea, my car is a race car as well, or at least thats what the cops think I actually want to remove it so I dont need it to be on my trailer to get work done to it. Getting my low profile jack under the car is enough work as it is, i dont want it any more complicated.
#13
Alright guys, I know a few of us on the forum have these things. and I'm actually dieing to know how they are mounted! After removing the bumper a few times, I've noticed that there is not a lot of room in there! So how does it mount? is it as simple as bolting on?
Thanks!
-Ross
Thanks!
-Ross
#14
I have mounted the undertray to the stock fascia, and radiator supports using the upper splitter cover, and a couple of brackets and an added cross member and creative bolting. Depending on your car, it may leave the undertray too high off the ground, but my ride height was low enough to make it work.
Raftracer's solution is the right one, as you want to have rake adjustment on the undertray.
Raftracer's solution is the right one, as you want to have rake adjustment on the undertray.
#15
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I have the over-lay version and instead of using double-sided tape I use about 12 self-tapping screws and just remove it whenever I need to trailer or drive on street. this pic is from when it was first painted and taped on.
#18
Race Director
I did some shade-tree jerry-rigging to do my mount. I will be removing my nose cone for some R&R in a week or so, and will tkae some photos of the mounting setup I did if folks are interested.
Nothing fancy - just some sturdy stays bolted to the front fram cross member, 2 bolts to OEM chin-spoiler frame and a couple DZUS fasterns round the side. Shamelessy modelled after the Pfadt setup
This setup has worked pretty wel so far.
The undertray is a custom flat unit I had APR make up from a template I sent them, it is bolted to the underside lip of the ACP splitter.
As for other peripheral air-flow mods, I have ACP heat extractor hood, screened holes in the top of the front fender wells, screened holes in the rear of the front fender wells, ducted brake cooling air flow and gurney-flaps on the leading outside edge of the fenders and an airbox directing incoming chin-scooped air directly to the radiator (seen mocked up in cardboard). (oh... and big a$$ wing out back to try balance the whole lot out)
This has resulted in a pretty decent (if not a little riced-up) looking, and somewhat functionally well behaving, easily removed and managed setup.
Nothing fancy - just some sturdy stays bolted to the front fram cross member, 2 bolts to OEM chin-spoiler frame and a couple DZUS fasterns round the side. Shamelessy modelled after the Pfadt setup
This setup has worked pretty wel so far.
The undertray is a custom flat unit I had APR make up from a template I sent them, it is bolted to the underside lip of the ACP splitter.
As for other peripheral air-flow mods, I have ACP heat extractor hood, screened holes in the top of the front fender wells, screened holes in the rear of the front fender wells, ducted brake cooling air flow and gurney-flaps on the leading outside edge of the fenders and an airbox directing incoming chin-scooped air directly to the radiator (seen mocked up in cardboard). (oh... and big a$$ wing out back to try balance the whole lot out)
This has resulted in a pretty decent (if not a little riced-up) looking, and somewhat functionally well behaving, easily removed and managed setup.
Last edited by RC45; 02-24-2009 at 01:14 PM.