New Trailer - Need tie-down advice
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
New Trailer - Need tie-down advice
I just bought a Haulmark 24 foot enclosed and I know for those of you who have been trailering your C5 for a while this may seem old hat, but I've never tied my Z into a trailer before and I would appreciate some insight.
I've ordered a set of axel straps and ratchet tie-down straps. My question is what to strap so I don't hurt anything.
thanks!
I've ordered a set of axel straps and ratchet tie-down straps. My question is what to strap so I don't hurt anything.
thanks!
#2
Le Mans Master
Not sure axle straps will do you any good. Use the slots in the frame rail instead. You'll need twisted hooks on the ratchet end and flat hooks on the strap end. The T-hooks can be found at Northern tool or equivalent. Be sure to cross at least one strap from side to side. It works like a champ.
#3
"AlohaC5" Senior Member
Take a look at the frame rail, just about where the front fender wraps under the car, you'll see a slot. There'll be one on each side of the car. This is a point where a "T" hook fits that the factory uses to attach a strap to that is used to secure the car to a trailer.
If you look just in front of the rear fender well, also on the frame rail, there'll be a slot on both sides of the car. These are also used to insert the "T" hooks into that have a strap attached to them.
Once the "T" hooks are inserted with a strap attached, criss cross them under the car and attach the rachet end of the strap into the "D" ring on the trailer. Tighten all 4 straps tight and you're done.
If you look just in front of the rear fender well, also on the frame rail, there'll be a slot on both sides of the car. These are also used to insert the "T" hooks into that have a strap attached to them.
Once the "T" hooks are inserted with a strap attached, criss cross them under the car and attach the rachet end of the strap into the "D" ring on the trailer. Tighten all 4 straps tight and you're done.
#4
Burning Brakes
I run axle straps through my front wheels (so both ends of the strap end up on the outside of the wheel.) For the rear I run the strap through one of the holes in the rear cradle. My rear straps are the type that clips back onto itself, but the axle strap will be easier to use.
It is harder to get at the holes below the rockers on the passenger side in an enclosed trailer. At least it is for me since I place the car as close to the passenger side trailer wheel box as possible (front tire jsut about rubs as the car rolls past it) to make it easier to get out of the car.
It is harder to get at the holes below the rockers on the passenger side in an enclosed trailer. At least it is for me since I place the car as close to the passenger side trailer wheel box as possible (front tire jsut about rubs as the car rolls past it) to make it easier to get out of the car.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I run axle straps through my front wheels (so both ends of the strap end up on the outside of the wheel.) For the rear I run the strap through one of the holes in the rear cradle. My rear straps are the type that clips back onto itself, but the axle strap will be easier to use.
It is harder to get at the holes below the rockers on the passenger side in an enclosed trailer. At least it is for me since I place the car as close to the passenger side trailer wheel box as possible (front tire jsut about rubs as the car rolls past it) to make it easier to get out of the car.
It is harder to get at the holes below the rockers on the passenger side in an enclosed trailer. At least it is for me since I place the car as close to the passenger side trailer wheel box as possible (front tire jsut about rubs as the car rolls past it) to make it easier to get out of the car.
Thanks for the recommendations!
#6
Racer
If you're young and nimble, and can articulate yourself to access the slots under the frame as mentioned before, good place to anchor to. If you're not so nimble (like me) and don't want to crawl around like a lizzard, then try this;
a) front - run 4 foot to 6 foot double loop strap thru the bottom spokes of the wheel and run straight forward. Attach your ratcheting harness to it and snug up.
b) rear - using axle straps, wrap around the rear of the lower control arm near the chassis and run your ratcheting harness in a criss cross to the back attaching eyes.
I built raised ramps inside my trailer so the car door clears the trailer wheel housing inside the trailer. I made them about 2.5" higher than the floor. That also gives more clearance to get under the car to attach the axle straps in the back as well as the double looped straps on the front wheels.
Another thing that might help when loading or unloading without help, I installed a couple of 18" convex mirrors along the driver's side of the trailer so I can see where my front wheel is. Found the mirrors on ebay as they're used in buildings with blind corners or other areas where you need to see around things...also blind driveways pulling out onto a road, etc. In any case, just an idea.
a) front - run 4 foot to 6 foot double loop strap thru the bottom spokes of the wheel and run straight forward. Attach your ratcheting harness to it and snug up.
b) rear - using axle straps, wrap around the rear of the lower control arm near the chassis and run your ratcheting harness in a criss cross to the back attaching eyes.
I built raised ramps inside my trailer so the car door clears the trailer wheel housing inside the trailer. I made them about 2.5" higher than the floor. That also gives more clearance to get under the car to attach the axle straps in the back as well as the double looped straps on the front wheels.
Another thing that might help when loading or unloading without help, I installed a couple of 18" convex mirrors along the driver's side of the trailer so I can see where my front wheel is. Found the mirrors on ebay as they're used in buildings with blind corners or other areas where you need to see around things...also blind driveways pulling out onto a road, etc. In any case, just an idea.
#7
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Bedford NH
Posts: 5,708
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Cruise-In II Veteran
I use fixed length cables crossed in the front. They are stiff so you can push them under the air dam to the slots on each side. I got them at Home Depot or Lowes and have the additional benefit that they make your car in always the same spot each time.
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2004
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,533
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just don't understand why people feel compelled to excercise their creativity on this subject.
GM engineers designed the slots in the chassis specifically to tie the car down during transport. Therefore it stands to reason we should use them for their intended purpose. They have been designed, tested and validated to tie the car down. Why invent something else?
Frank Gonzalez
GM engineers designed the slots in the chassis specifically to tie the car down during transport. Therefore it stands to reason we should use them for their intended purpose. They have been designed, tested and validated to tie the car down. Why invent something else?
Frank Gonzalez
#9
Melting Slicks
Drive car on to ramp door, attach hooks to factory tie down holes.Lay nylon straps on hood and drive car into trailer.Place a mark on wall so car is in same position each time(or wheel stops). Or just use a electric winch mounted on front floor of trailer.