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Kill Switch Installation into 2007 Z06

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Old 03-16-2009, 06:13 PM
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z06champ
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Default Kill Switch Installation into 2007 Z06

2007 Z06-- Kill Switch Installation

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I am looking for any learnings I can get regarding installation of a Kill Switch into a 2007 Corvette Z06. We have built out a 2007 Z06 for racing in NASA and SCCA and when we installed the Kill Switch into the car, we seem to have the computer going crazy with the kill switch and turning the lights on and off while driving and sending message displays indicating Service the Charging System, Service ABS, High Voltage on Battery and then the computer resets and clears the messages and then starts again. Anyone have any recommendations or experience with installling a Kill Switch in the 2007 Z06? Thanks in advance for any advice or insight you may share?
Old 03-16-2009, 06:17 PM
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L98Terror
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You know this guy Tony had the same problem down at Road Atlanta this weekend.
Old 03-16-2009, 06:47 PM
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z06champ
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Originally Posted by L98Terror
You know this guy Tony had the same problem down at Road Atlanta this weekend.
Hey--This is Tony from RA---Hope all is well with your trip back--Tony
Old 03-16-2009, 08:02 PM
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davidfarmer
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what kind of switch are you using, at simple on-off, or one that has the separate alternator circuit????
Old 03-16-2009, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by z06champ
Hey--This is Tony from RA---Hope all is well with your trip back--Tony
I figured as much, I was being funny. Made it back at 11 this morning and was at work for 1

BTW it was nice meeting you
Old 03-16-2009, 09:06 PM
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z06champ
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Originally Posted by davidfarmer
what kind of switch are you using, at simple on-off, or one that has the separate alternator circuit????
We installed a simple two post switch, but I think we need to put a 4 post switch in----thanks and I welcome any feedback.
Old 03-16-2009, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by L98Terror
I figured as much, I was being funny. Made it back at 11 this morning and was at work for 1

BTW it was nice meeting you
It was great meeting you also. You looked great on the track---plan to come back this summer when we get some good track conditions. You car looks great and I am anxious to see how fast it can turn the dry track conditions. Glad you got home safely after a long day on the track. Best wishes and keep in touch. Tony
Old 03-16-2009, 11:52 PM
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Need the 4 post switch for alt current. We just did a C6 and it was pretty straight forward. Good Luck!
Old 03-17-2009, 12:26 AM
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You need a 6 post switch Not a 4 not a 2. You need to kill the battery and the alternator. That's why you get the other messages because your alternator is running the car when you kill the switch. You need to be wired soemthing like this. http://spece30.com/images/fbfiles/im...illswitch6.JPG

After you get your switch I can send you pics of exact wiring to the alternator on my C5Z. You need to set it up to kill bat and kill alt so when flipped the engine dies or you will not be SCCA or NASA legal
Old 03-17-2009, 12:27 AM
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http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=1464


This is exactly what you want.
Old 03-17-2009, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by fatbillybob
You need a 6 post switch Not a 4 not a 2. You need to kill the battery and the alternator. That's why you get the other messages because your alternator is running the car when you kill the switch. You need to be wired soemthing like this. http://spece30.com/images/fbfiles/im...illswitch6.JPG

After you get your switch I can send you pics of exact wiring to the alternator on my C5Z. You need to set it up to kill bat and kill alt so when flipped the engine dies or you will not be SCCA or NASA legal
Thanks for the information. We had it killing the car when we turned it off, but when its on and we are racing, the messages and the computer are resetting messages and turning lights on an off-----so trying a 6 post will be a good point-----thanks again for the information and help. T
Old 03-17-2009, 08:29 AM
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I haven't done a C6Z, but I always use a 2 post, and simply move the alternator wire to the "battery" side of the switch, instead of the "engine" side of the switch. This leaves you with a single hot wire going to the alternator all of the time, but otherwise works perfectly.

I'm thinking, as said, the inconsistent voltages are being caused by the switch you are using, but whether it's the switch's fault, or the wiring setup, is hard to tell here. You must be having spikes/dips while the engine is running??!!
Old 03-17-2009, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by davidfarmer
I haven't done a C6Z, but I always use a 2 post, and simply move the alternator wire to the "battery" side of the switch, instead of the "engine" side of the switch. This leaves you with a single hot wire going to the alternator all of the time, but otherwise works perfectly.

I'm thinking, as said, the inconsistent voltages are being caused by the switch you are using, but whether it's the switch's fault, or the wiring setup, is hard to tell here. You must be having spikes/dips while the engine is running??!!
I'm kinda dumb with electronics. Do you have a skematic of how you wire the two post switch. I was always told use the rediculously expensive 6 post and I'd like to learn how to save a few bucks.

Thanks!
Old 03-19-2009, 03:35 PM
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I haven't don't one in a while, basically the big wire that goes from the alternator back to the main hot circuit needs to be removed, and re-attached to the "hot" side of the switch. It normally allows the alternator to keep the engine running if you cut the power, but by moving it you eliminate that. The easiest way is to leave the OEM alternator wire in place (tape it securely), and run a new hot wire from the alternator back to the hot side of your switch. It's always worked for me, and I use the $6 switches from WalMart.
Old 06-27-2009, 08:37 PM
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Is it possible for a C6 Corvette to still run without a battery and alternator?
Old 06-27-2009, 09:14 PM
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no, I don't think so. If you cut the power and it's still running, you've got a leak somewhere. You have to have the PCM, fuel pump, coils charge as a minimum to keep the car running........maybe you added the flux capacitor option??
Old 06-27-2009, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by davidfarmer
no, I don't think so. If you cut the power and it's still running, you've got a leak somewhere. You have to have the PCM, fuel pump, coils charge as a minimum to keep the car running........maybe you added the flux capacitor option??
WE had a small wire running from the + battery to the ECM fuse in the engine area to maintain the Keep Alive Memory.

Without that, everything shuts down but then I have to drive it for 30 minutes to reset the computer.

With it, the kill switch then did not shut down the engine

Last edited by WNeal; 06-27-2009 at 09:37 PM.

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Old 06-27-2009, 10:17 PM
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amazingly, that small circuit in the ECM must back feed just enough power into the rest of the system.

just use the kill switch for emergencies
Old 06-27-2009, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by davidfarmer
amazingly, that small circuit in the ECM must back feed just enough power into the rest of the system.

just use the kill switch for emergencies
Thats were we are with it now. It works great and will meet NASA rules.
Its just that I will have to drive the car for 30 minutes on some back road everytime it is teched and tested by NASA

We tried a KAM 9 volt battery through the cigarrette lighter and that did not work. It must work on some cars because they sell them for that express purpose.
Old 06-27-2009, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by WNeal
Thats were we are with it now. It works great and will meet NASA rules.
Its just that I will have to drive the car for 30 minutes on some back road everytime it is teched and tested by NASA

We tried a KAM 9 volt battery through the cigarrette lighter and that did not work. It must work on some cars because they sell them for that express purpose.
This is the article that speaks about the KAM saver device

http://www.aa1car.com/library/batter...t_problems.htm


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