Dirty Howie

Well I previously posted a thread about how I wasted some almost new R6 FRONT tires (corded) because I never changed my factory alignment.

My REAR tires are also worn on the very outside edges. I tried to show the amount of beveled wear with side by side pic with the fronts. There is no cording but I'm thinking they must be close .... although I included a close up of one of the wear holes that shows there is rubber just inside of the beveled outside edge.

I have changed the camber on the REAR from -.65 to - 1.27

My question is: Should I flip the tires ??????????

Will the increase in negative camber keep any further wear of the worn edge if it is kept on the outside. Or if I flip them will the camber change quickly cord the tire if the worn edge is on the inside

Currently the inside edge has NO wear at all !!!!!!!







DH

larryfs

run more air. you'll save $$$$

fatbillybob

If you have not corded them yet flip them now before you do. You may not know the true value of your new settings yet because you are trying to get max wear out of the tires you got now. But for just running an event big deal unless you need to be the fastest guy.

Dirty Howie

Run more air and don't flip? Or run more air AND flip.


DH

Dirty Howie

Carl

If I didn't change the Camber I was surely going to flip before next event.

And I will never be the fastest guy


DH

mgarfias

Those tires don't look like camber got them, looks more like a toe issue.

What are your toe settings like?

Dirty Howie

The TOE IN is only 1/16 each side. But the Camber is 1/2 what every one else I know runs. I thought TOE IN caused inside wear ????


DH

Sidney004

Flip them. The -1.27 might cause excessive inside wear after 10,000 miles of street drivingbut the outside edge wear is what is killing your longevity.

bowtiguy

Flip the rears and run them!

Trash those fronts...unsafe.

Howie, I was/am running the following on my goodyears and now my PS2's on the street ( very close to pfdat agressive track/street settings)

Camber 1.6 up front and 1.5 in there rear
Caster 7.9 front/back
Tow 1/16 up front/ 0 out back


I got "some"wear on the outside edge of the passenger side rear 345
PS2 around a counter clock wise track but the stock goodyears wore well driving 1,300 miles out and back to Road America and 7.5 25 minutes sessions.

I'm going to be going with Pfadts "agressive track" setting and a camber kit so I can drive to and from the track w/o a tow vehicle/trailor...beauty of light weight aluminum jacks.

I'll save R6's until next season once I dial in the alignment and I need it to run NASA time trials....toyo 888's for this season.

If you haven't seen this yet.

http://www.pfadtracing.com/docs/camb...t-settings.pdf

BTW, my stock setting were ALL OVER THE PLACE!

Dreamin

+1 Flip them

Dirty Howie

Thanks for the input.

Yes the fronts are toast ..... got some used replacements coming. I may go to MPSC after these, as they last twice as long according to some users of them.

I assume that is TOE in on the front?? That seems opposite of what most say ...... Toe IN for rear and same or zero for front ????

So you are running 275/345 ? Stock suspension ?


DH

froggy47

If the close up is the last pic, then you have plenty of meat left .

I flip (A6/710) at LEAST once & sometimes 2x.

Run at LEAST 2.2 f and 1.2 rear neg camb or you will be spending a LOT of cash on tires.

Run more neg if you can get if - front anyway.

Also reverse direction of tire rotation (at least on 710's not sure a/r6) every event to keep the seam closed.

Air pressure should be set according to tire temps measured in/mid/out immediately after a run. Search other threads about how this is done.

Davinss

What pressures do you guys recommend? A6? V710?

bowtiguy

I'm no expert on aligments but I just wanted to let you know what has worked onmy car in teh last year. I will be doing MUCH more track time this year and will monitor and report as I go along.

That was toe OUT up front ...hasn't effected tire wear on the street yet.

I ditched the stock suspension. ONLY bilstein/hypercoil coilovers. BUT Pfaddty comp bars/camber kit are going on this weekend which may change things.

275/35/18 PS2's up front, 345/30/19's rear. GREAT street tire.

New set-up will most likely be Toyo R888s 285/30/18 front, 335/30/18 rear. Hoping to get a full season out of them with carefull monitoring and camber changes.

Next year: trailor and R6's. still too much car for me now...have to grow into it a bit.

Dirty Howie

I'm putting 23K miles on my car every year ..... 99% daily driving. so the camber has to be a compromize

I already started switching wheels ... RT to LFT each track day. Don't know what the seam means.

Yes the close up is of the rear tire showing the wear indicator hole just to the midline of where the outside edge is worn down but not corded.

So are you recomending to flip these so the worn edges will be on the inside, even with the increased (doubled) camber ??


DH

froggy47

Also if you are running ccw one day & cw the next swap the tires that are worst to inside, ouside wears more.

Dirty Howie

I know this ..... but mostly CW tracks

Thanks again for your help


DH

High 11s

DH....I have the exact same wear pattern as you do running A6's on my 08 C6Z with 2.5 deg neg camber up front.

I am told that my stock bushings are likely the problem and so I will change them this year. I can only get two track days on a pair of fronts while rears last twice as long.

Keep in mind though I am running at Waterford Hills, a tight track, and pushing the car pretty hard in turns and very easy on the brakes.

Camber will likely double your front tire life.

Also I flip fronts after every track day.

Hope it helps you some....others may have different advise!

James

Dirty Howie

Dreamin has very even wear with almost the same alignment I now have -1.6 front and -1.3. But he also is running wider tires. So I wonder how much the bushings and tire size are factors .....


DH

RX7 KLR

Then there is the driver. The quickest way to kill a tire is overdriving it.