A-Pex

Well, folks, the bug has bitten me. I took my F55 C6 out to High Plains Raceway today and found out that the HP and Handling of the stock C6 are still greater than my own. Sadly, the stock C6 brakes leave a little to be desired when tramping down from 135+ repeatedly.

So here's my request for recommendations...

I've got a non-Z51 2006 C6 and I'm in need of a break upgrade.

I'd really like to avoid spending $4500 for a major Big Break Kit for front and rear.

I'd also like to be able to keep/use my stock rims (spacers OK if necessary).

I've seen a very reasonably priced pad/rotor/line/fluid upgrade available on LG's site, but thought I'd ask the experts here for your opinions on the best bang for the buck.

Thanks in advance for any opinions (preferably backed up by data) you might have to offer.

C6400hp

LG motorsports is going to be your best bet.

CHJ In Virginia

Four things to recommend before you spend big bux on brakes. #1 change out fluid to a high temp version such as ATE super Blue or Motul #2 Get cooling ducts installed for the front brakes #3 Change out pads to a good high performance pad such as Carbotek, Wilwood or hawk. #4 Use proper threshold braking techniques. These four things will make a major difference in how your brakes live during a track day or HPDE and you will not destroy your checking account.

geerookie

I personally wouldn't spend the bucks on Motul. It is higher temp but needs to be changed every month and is not good to use on a daily/weekend driver. The ATE has a higher wet boiling point and that is what matters unless you want to flush brake fluid every month or less.
For brake pads look at Cobalt Friction CSR or XR2/XR3. A few vendors on the forum sell them. I have tried all the others and they do work well but nothing beats the Cobalts for stopping power, rotor friendly and Looonnnggg lasting. Also no bedding required (my neighbors like me again)
Also they have the same stopping power and feel when the are down to 3mm of pad left as they did when they were new. I can 't say this for any of the others
I have a C5 and use C6 calipers and they are fine for at least your first 2 years of HPDE (just depends on how aggressive you get with braking. I have been using them for 4 years and just started running full slicks. They still work fine but I am getting ready to upgrade everything soon.
Cooling, pads and good rotors and DOT4 fluid are the real answer.

Keep an eye out on the forum, I will be trying some new 2-piece rotors that one of the trusted vendors on the forum will be offering soon. I will post some thoughts and info when I can.

A-Pex

Thanks for the input guys!!!

LG's got a deal right now for a "Stoptech Stage 2 Upgrade Kit" which included lines, Stoptech Slotted Rotors, HPS Pads and Motul Fluid.
http://www.lgmotorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1470{39}129 {67}438

It sounds like I'd be better off buying the parts separately (to include Carbotech Pads and ATE or Castrol fluid) based on the above recommendations, so here are my follow up questions.

I only found the street, autocross and XP compound pads when I did a search for them. Am I missing something or did they just change the names of their pads? If the latter, should I go with Carbotech's AX6, XP8 or XP10 pads? I didn't see the CSR or XR2/XR3 mentioned above.

What slotted rotors and braided lines would you recommend?

When you mention cooling ducts, would this be above and beyond the cooling ducts that came stock with the car?

Can you please describe the "proper threshold braking techniques" mentioned above?

Sorry if these are noob questions, but I'm pretty new to all this and trying to soak it all in. Also, because I'm new, I don't know what I don't know and haven't had the time/ability to do the appropriate research on the RR/AutoX portion of the site. That's about to change, as I'm about to spend the next few weeks with the search function.

FredSM

If you have $2K burning a hole in your pocket, I'm just jealous. But, what I think I'm reading above, and certainly what I'd recommend, is use what you've got to better effect. The reasonably inexpensive mods (stainless lines, high-temp fluid, more agressive pads, brake ducts) and learning how to care for your brakes will take you a long way in my experience, better prepare you for a big brake kit, and you'll find your own answers to many of your questions.

And to your cooling duct question . . . yes, replace the pitiful C6 solid front plastic duct with a Z06 duct and add some flexible ducting and a spindle bracket to get some air to within an inch of the rotor. LG, DRM, Quantum ... several vendors of spindle duct systems. My recommendation, do these mods and spend the $2K on track time. Either way, enjoy!

FM

gkmccready

To keep stock rims on a C6 non-Z pretty much means keeping the stock calipers. Do the fluid (Motul RBF600 is my favorite), better pads (Wilwood H, PFC 01, ...), DRM SS caliper pistons, DRM SS lines, and see how that goes.

I'm not even sure if the thin Wilwood SL6 kit will let you keep the stock wheels; I'm pretty sure the LG G-Stop Wilwoods would require fairly big spacers, which implies longer wheel studs.

BTW, you didn't say what tires you were running... if you're still on the stock tires then the stock brakes should be up to the task and it may be more of how you're using them causing the trouble, especially if you went out with the stock fluid & pads.

geerookie

For brake rotors/hats and pads at the best price, service and quality call
Gary Hoffman
Hardbar USA
(603) 682-8073
or
Robert Finlayson
Performance AFX Motorsports
new phone number 815-254-2631.

Both of these guys are very knowledgeable and extremely helpful.
If you buy either of their products you won't go wrong. Very similar approach to solving the GM engineering issues and they are based on practical real world engineering and testing. They use exactly what they sell.
Brake lines and fluid can be found cheap on the internet. I have seen SS lines advertised for $90 and ATE for $10 - $12 per liter

DarkMastyr

Did you come to the conclusion that you need better brakes after just one track day? If so, then I agree with Fred and CHJ. Fluids and race pads first, save the rest of the money for more track days. I run ATE Super Blue / Typ 200 and Carbotech XP10/XP8. No sense in blowing so much money on a bbk when the stock brakes are just fine for a beginner, especially on street tires, plus the cost of spacers/studs or new wheels to clear bigger calipers.

Once you really get to the limits of the stock rotors/calipers, then you can look into the LG Gstop as an intermediate upgrade, or Stoptech ST-40 BBK.

oldmansan

I think everyone here is pretty much in agreement as to where you should spend your money. Ducting is a no-brainer, especially as cheap as it is. I like ATE Super Blue but I use Castrol SRF for track use. You don't have to bleed it all the time so for me that makes it cost effective. I used Performance Friction race pads on my other car and they were violent, in a good way. I have heard great things about the Cobalt pads. I run Carbotech street pads on my other car and they're good pads. Stainless lines will increase your pedal "feel". If you're going to stick with the stock wheels you're really limiting yourself. That's even more reason to do the minor upgrades and then if you decide you need more stopping power to invest in wheels, tires and a big brake kit. Some here just do the front brakes and move the front brakes and rotors to the rear.

San

Tom03Z06

I too agree with what everybody here is recommending.

Buy a nice seat, a harness and a harness bar then you will feel what its all about

dvandentop

afx or hardbar for 2pc rotors cannot go wrong!!!!

gkmccready

DRM makes a C5/C6 base sized 2pc along with the C6 Z06 size, but not a C6 Z51 size.

DRM has a lot of stuff hiding on their website if you dig around...

From www.dougrippie.com:

• Fluid: $50 (Motul RBF600; couple bottles)
• Pads: $250+$240 (PFC 01)
• SS Lines: $150
• SS Pistons w/ Seal Kit: $180
• 2pc Rotors: $695

Approximately $1565, well within the $2k budget and should get you stopping like a champ!

oldmansan

Add in some spindle ducts for less than $200 and you're still within budget. Hell, you could even splurge and get some Castrol SRF.

San

02impactblue

Something easily overlooked is the active handling. You may be hitting the brakes 5-6 times a lap but the computer is applying them 4-5x more often. At least run in comp mode, it will help save the brakes and reduce heat. When your comfortable, turn it off and learn to drive the car properly while saving your brakes.

0Vector Vette

We have 2 piece rotors for the C5/C6, Z51, and C6 Z06 in stock. All of our rotors are made using Coleman Racing rotors and we machine the aluminum hats ourselves. Our rotors are 100% made in the USA, are directional, correctly vented, slotted only - no holes, and offer a significant weight savings over the stock rotors. We have had some very experienced, aggressive drivers get over 75 track sessions on one set of front rotors.

The performance of Cobalt Friction brake pads on the track can't be matched by the competition. Unbelievable initial torque, easy to modulate, last far superior to any comperable race pads, and are not hard on the rotors. Once you try these pads, you will not be going back to any other pad.

Add some stainless steel lines, better brake fluid like Motul or Castrol, and some cooling ducts like Quantum Motorsports and that is all you will need. Save the rest for more seat time! All of the above is about $1400. Any caliper and adapters that you could get for $600 will not be an upgrade.

Let me know if I can help or if you have any further questions.

Robert Finlayson
Performance AFX Motorsports
815-254-2631

A-Pex

You guys ROCK, thanks a TON for your insight!

I figured the $2K number was going to be close to what was needed.

I noticed the DRM 2 piece rotors are $695 per pair. Looks like I can get Stoptech rotors for $456 for all four wheels. Any issues with the Stoptech's I should know about?

Also, duct systems seem to come in pairs. Should I just go with the fronts? Any recommendations when it comes to duct systems manufacturers, cost, etc?

Based on the chart from DRM's brake fluid chart it looks like SRF would be the best choice as I'd like to use something that requires minimal complete flushes of the system if possible. Any thoughts?

0Vector Vette

Our 2 piece rotors in the stock size are $320 each, replacement rings when needed are $155 each. You can run the stock rear rotors, though I do suggest a dedicated set for your race pads.

Robert

oldmansan

You're comparing apples to lemons. You can't compare two-piece rotor prices to one-piece rotors. If you can buy StopTech two-piece rotors for $456 for all four wheels please let us know where.

San

oldmansan

I don't know of any rear ducts other than the stock fender ducts. I have the Quantum Motorsports spindle ducts but can't comment on others I haven't tried. I don't know of any brake fluid better than Castrol SRF.

San