Han Solo

I'm looking at buying a 2003 Z06. What are the weak areas if any in these and how much $ to fix? Engine, tranny, diff problems?

What is the best size auto-x wheels to use if you don't care what class you go in? Can you use 17x11 or 18x11 on all fours? (I know that bumps you out of SS)

How about shocks?

Thanks

longdaddy

as long as the car is in good condition overall, you are not likely to stress anything to the point of failure at auto-x

AU N EGL

on 02 to 04s no problems, a few of the 01s had oil leaks. but that was only a few

RaleighSS

As stated above these cars are very durable if Used and not Abused. In stock forum the driveline is very strong on auto x and Road Course. Now when ya bolt slicks on an head to the race track dumping clutch at 5K along with power shifting will get ya into some un needed repairs.

Regular upkeep and Using the car knowing where its limits are they will give you many fun times on the track and day to day work.

TedDBere

Just check the front upper A-arm bushings to see if they've pushed out too far.

Other than that you might want to see if the driver's side diff cover is leaking. Both are easy fixes but will cost some money to restore.

sperkins

I have been beating the crap out of my '03 Z on sweltering hot southeast road courses for 2 years now and have been amazed at how much abuse the car can stand. Other than cooking the OE power steering pump, I've not had one single mechanical failure. Watch the control arm bushings as stated above (took mine 1 1/2 years to go out).

Prepare for an oil cooler if you plan on open track days.

96solo

I've campaign the 2003 Realty Executives Z 06 from the beginning is Superstock in Solo in 2004, to Pro Solo and National Tour, to NASA TT time trials now. The 2003 is a very tough car.

First of all. replacing fluid frequently with Mobile 1 Extended, and with the Redline products for the transmission, and rearend with GM friction Modifier, Gibbs power steering fluid, and most important Motal in your clutch and completely flush the brake system will extend the life of your Corvette.

For autocrossing, paying attention to your suspension and brakes are the parts that need your attention. As mentioned before, keep a eye on the lower A frame bushings from walking out of position. This happens when using sticky DOT Kumho or Hoosiers and good brake pads. Replace to stainless steel brake lines, if allowed under your rules. I've seen stock ones brake in the line and one the fitting at 142 MPH.

Don't let your pads get below 3/4 wear. They are heat sinks along with rotors.

The '04 Sachs shock is better than the '03 Sachs shock. Stock to stock it is better in both on the track and on the highway. If you are running in autocross, I suggest the Koni 3013's. I found them dyno better than the expensive Penskes, really. The '04 Sachs shock is super in the rain!!

See Sam Santo for a match set.

Greywolfe

I can vouch for that. I was up in the 280s F at Road Atlanta in August. Had to short shift and just cruise on the back straight to keep temps from rising.

BERETTA

They are dang tough cars, as others have already posted, I am on my third one right now, all have been 01's, not that I wore any of them out! I trade cars a lot, I have had zero issues with any of them. I just got through doing my first road racing PDX this weekend. Its the first time I really drove the living crap out of one of these. I had no issues other than I think I cooked the brakes, but I was very very aggressive on the brakes and they were stock pads. And by the way this car has 75,000 miles on it. Also as started earlier I noticed my Oil temps reached 285 degrees at the end of one session, so I think an additional oil cooler may be needed. Good Luck!

Han Solo

This input is all very helpful. I just returned from looking at the car a second time and got the wife's approval so it's looking more like a done deal.

I plan to do all the repairs and maintenance myself. Is the oil change reminder resetable by the owner or does it require a flash tool or something?

How about my wheel question? Will 18x11's fit all the way around?

Is the clutch adjustable? This one feels like it releases pretty close to the top of the pedal travel.

96solo

Not for Superstock. You must stay on the same sizes as original equipment. If you are running ASP, then that isn't a problem. In the front, 18x11 will rub DB/LG front brake coolers. You might need an adapter or spacer in the rear.

My suggestion, stay with the stock wheels, run in Superstock, and put your money into your training. See SCCA''s Evolution traveling schools. If your lucky, you might get Tom Kotzian or Kevin Dietz as an instructor.

longdaddy

you can reset the oil reminder yourself. clutch pedal is not adjustable. having it engage close to the top is not unusual.

Han Solo

Closed the deal. Now we're trying to bond.



More pics: http://s325.photobucket.com/albums/k...ngmustang/Z06/

It is doing two things that bug me. Every so often I go to shift from first to second and the damn thing won't go. It guides the shifter to forth. I've tried making sure I had pressure towards me during the shift and it makes no difference. Four out of five times it'll shift like it should or at least as good as that mush stick will do it.

The other thing is when I back up on an incline I get an aweful scrubbing sound under the front. Then when I put it in first and go forward it scrubs again for a little bit. Only seems to to it when I back up with the wheels turned a little and up an incline of any degree.

I've got a little regional experience and not looking to go pro for autox. I like to get the fastest overall time I can so I wasn't worried about staying in SS. Main reason for the wheel question though is economics. I usually buy used tires and I imagine good takeoffs in stock size aren't that plentiful.

What size wheels and tires are you running in TT?

TedDBere

You're kidding right?

1-4 skip shift is when you're not going fast enough in first. It's a trick GM used to get better gas mileage. Get a CAGS elliminator for about $20 and get rid of it. It's the first mod most C5 owners do. Do a search for CAGS on the technical forum.

The sound you hear is the center air dam rubbing on the ground. It's made to rub and is spring loaded, don't worry about it.

Good luck!

96solo

Going to Evolution will help your local autocrossing too. Work on your craft. Walk with fast drivers driving a Corvette. Keep your ears open and listen to cross talk. Have me as an instructor too! ha,ha.

I use CCW classics comp versions 18x10.5 front and 18x12 rear. You can get too big for the quickness needed of slaloms. Bigger, the slower to reactions.

The stock wheel is a great and light wheel. Made by Speedline and very strong. Save your money on wheels and look for two sets or originals. I got a used set, if your looking.

You can get a kit to remove the EPA 1 to 4 shift, or rev 1st over 20% throttle, then shift into second.

Han Solo

PM sent on the wheels.


Great, I'll look into it.

Z06_BluByU

reset oil light by putting the key in the on position (do not start the car) and then press the gas pedal to the floor three times in a row and bingo presto chango.. oil life display at 100%.

Han Solo

Thanks for the info on CAGS and the 1-4 shift thing. I finally got to that section in the owners manual. WTF were they thinkin? I tend to drive like the grandpa I am around town but for now I'll try and remember to spin first up to 3000.

This noise I'm hearing is not the air dam or anything scraping the ground. It started doing it today on flat ground. It sounds and feels like something in the driveline or throw out bearing and does it while the clutch is being depressed or released I think. It also seems to be happening more or worse when the car is hot.

Speaking of hot this thing hit near 240 today in traffic. Is that normal??? I've checked the coolant level and both fans sound like they are coming on. I guess while I'm changing the fluids this weekend I better look in the rad to see if it's clogged.

Thanks again for all your replies!

wmckeenster

try pressure test on cooling system for leaks and wash the radiator thoroughly

longdaddy

you will find that the radiator is clogged with a lot of stuff. very common.

if you are replacing coolant anyway might just as well take the radiator out to clean it, it is a little tricky to do it right while it is in the car.